BobcatBranch
Member
Outside Air Kit. It allows the stove to get air directly from outside in poor draft situations, and mobile home applications.
Sized for the room or the house?
- Thread starter Sel135
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outside air kit .allows stove to suck air from outside instead of in the house.also inside air will be replaced with cold outside air cooling house
As above. You're lucky as you can route that horizontal or below horizontal - OAKs can't be angled up, which is an issue for below grade installs. The outside door shows that is not an issue here.
Is it necessary? I like the look of a single pipe going out the wall, but imagining a second line out the wall seems cluttered.
Here's the stove I had eyed down - if I am buying a new one it'd be nice to get one with the tax credit.... Drolet escape 1200.
https://www.firepitsurplus.com/products/drolet-escape-1200-wood-stove-db03182
Thoughts on that one? Also that link shows a variety of options without any additional descriptions, so I don't know which are smart to get given the info we'd discussed here so far.
https://www.firepitsurplus.com/products/drolet-escape-1200-wood-stove-db03182
Thoughts on that one? Also that link shows a variety of options without any additional descriptions, so I don't know which are smart to get given the info we'd discussed here so far.
I am the office occupant
Our new house is finished upstairs, not down. However, it was built to be finished with rough in's for a bathroom and all ducting ran down a trunk and between joists. I've spent a good bit of time laying out how I want to do this because the walk out exterior doors are currently the only source of daylight so I wanted to maximize that feature as far back as I could take it. With double doors on the living room and bedroom it should help. The wood stove shares the same intention with mostly being an ambiance feature but it would be nice insurance for power failures as well. I am also planning to install a propane fireplace upstairs, but currently everything here is all electric, no alternative fuel sources currently installed and I have an undersized generator as a bandaid at the moment. Thankfully we've got buried electric and pretty reliable power, but just nice to have the opportunity to make the accommodations before I finish the basement and seal off the ceiling with drywallNo. It's going to be finished. The house HVAC was sized for the whole house and is ducted on both floors. The wood stove is not necessary, I just wanted to add one for an extra backup heat source during power outages or for ambiance downstairs. I will work out of the office daily and if we have guests they will reside downstairs, so it'd be nice to have some nice warmth like that down there. I could add a propane fireplace but I've never had a wood stove and now live in a rural area on 5+ acres so I've got access to wood from both my own property and the in-laws hunting land of 500+ acres.
BobcatBranch
Member
The necessity may become obvious after installation. If you're careful to match your stove to your proposed flue, it may not be necessary.
BobcatBranch
Member
The quality of wood heat is hard to beat. The Escape 1200 requires a 12ft flue minimum.
Drolet is a solid stove.
An OAK is useful for cases where a basement is at underpressure (due to the home acting like a chimney, transporting air up).
An OAK is useful for cases where a basement is at underpressure (due to the home acting like a chimney, transporting air up).
^^This^^
Outside Air Kit info
Outside Air Kit info
Sweep's Library - Why burn outside air?
Should I burn outside combustion air in my stove or fireplace?
hearth.com
drolet is a very good
simple to operate stove .use it and see how it works .if you need oak install one.
simple to operate stove .use it and see how it works .if you need oak install one.
What did you decide on? We're looking to replace a wood stove in our basement (also a ranch, about 1500 sq ft per floor). Our basement is mostly open and unfinished. We use it as a gym. (Thankfully, I prefer to work out in the morning before the basement heats up too much.) We keep hearing go big, but the stove we're replacing was only 40k BTU, and it got us too hot sometimes upstairs. So I'd love to know what you went with and how you like it.
What stove is in there currently? If it's a modern stove then the answer might be to run it with smaller loads of fuel when less heat is needed.
We bought the house with a Vermont Castings Dutchwest 2478. We used it for a year, but it's at its end of life. We're debating between a Kuma Aspen or Kuma Ashwood--leaning toward the Ashwood, but just don't want to get too hot, waste wood, or run so low we run the risk of creosote. Even with the Dutchwest, we (...okay, I) kept the bedroom door closed and sometimes opened the window for sleeping. I do wonder if a newer stove would work/heat differently--I've heard that--and/or maybe part of the Dutchwest's heat came from it not running properly from being worn out.
That's possible. A stove can be hard to regulate when the internal are breaking down.
That’s actually great to hear. We struggled with it a ton the year we used it. I’ve seen in threads here that it isn’t an easy stove anyway, but maybe our struggles were also due to the internals breaking down.
That could be the issue. When the combustion package breaks down, the ability to regulate it greatly diminishes. It can become an on or off stove with little inbetween. The Dutchwest non-cats were cantankerous to run. I think you will find the Kuma to be a completely different experience. Personally, I would go for the larger one, but either model will provide steady and more controllable heat. The Ashwood will be better for very cold weather heating and will burn longer between reloads.
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