Should extras be included with new Stihl Chainsaw?

[Shmudda]

I think you should FINALLY buy a damn saw and quit talking about it.........

How many threads and discussions are you going to start on this??? If you put as much time into cutting and splitting as looking into which saw to purchase you would have had those 5 cords already done over a couple weekends......

Enough already........

Craig

 

[Ashful]

I think you should FINALLY buy a damn saw and quit talking about it.........

In case anyone is wondering what that's all about...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/which-chainsaw-would-you-pick.126336/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/is-this-a-good-stihl-chainsaw-purchase.126408/

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/looking-to-buy-a-new-saw-recomendations.126468/

and of course this thread...

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/should-extras-be-included-with-new-stihl-chainsaw.126416/

It's time to spread your wings, my butterfly.

 

[isipwater]

Sorry, but I have at least another 7 new threads to post before I can decide...can't commit and plagued with hesitation, doubt and a little bit of indecision. Rest assured, I will eventually find my way through this confusing muddle, I hope

 

[fossil]

Take your time.

 

[isipwater]

I was kidding about 7 more threads. I am getting close and suspect I will finally decide by this weekend. Still considering some used saws or I might get a new one.

 

[Ashful]

No harm done. Just giving you a proper hard time. This is a forum for discussing such things, after all...

 

[isipwater]

No harm done. Just giving you a proper hard time. This is a forum for discussing such things, after all...

I need it.

 

[Ashful]

One thing I learned along the way is that, no matter what saw I chose, I'd soon have envy for another. This is a large part of the reason I was proposing some used saws (eg. the 036). As you've noted, used pro saws really hold their value, particularly if you keep 'em looking pretty. If you shop smart, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it for more than you have into it. Even if you shop stupid, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it without losing more than a few dollars.

I went thru six or seven saws in 2 or 3 years, before I landed on a line-up I was happy with... or so I thought. Now _CY_ has me itching to try a 200T in place of my T435.

 

[TreePointer]

Maybe this will help. The size (diameter) of your typical wood to be cut determines the bar length you need. There is a displacement "sweet spot" for a given bar length. One way of quantifying this is to find the maximum bar length that can be buried in your wood and still keep up its rpm's. The sweet spot often is stated as follows:

50cc = 16" bar (.325)
60cc = 20" bar (3/8)
70cc = 24/28" bar (3/8)

Now you can tweak this a little by changing a few factors. Some are listed below:

Stretch the 50cc bar length to 18", but if you plan to run 3/8 pitch chain, keep it at 16".
Put a 24/25" bar on a 60cc saw if you are cutting softwoods (if oiler can keep up).
Run a 16" bar on your 60/70cc saw if you want a high rpm screamer/fast bucker.
Run longer bars on the 70cc saw but use semi- or full skip chain.
Use longer bars for reach (back saver).

55/56cc saws (Stihl 290/ Husqvarna 455) are in the crossover area for chain pitch. May be run with either .325 or 3/8 chain.

 

[TreePointer]

One thing I learned along the way is that, no matter what saw I chose, I'd soon have envy for another. This is a large part of the reason I was proposing some used saws (eg. the 036). As you've noted, used pro saws really hold their value, particularly if you keep 'em looking pretty. If you shop smart, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it for more than you have into it. Even if you shop stupid, you can buy a used pro saw, use it a year or three, and resell it without losing more than a few dollars.

I went thru six or seven saws in 2 or 3 years, before I landed on a line-up I was happy with... or so I thought. Now _CY_ has me itching to try a 200T in place of my T435.

Darn CAD!

 

[Ashful]

Maybe this will help. The size (diameter) of your typical wood to be cut determines the bar length you need. There is a displacement "sweet spot" for a given bar length. One way of quantifying this is to find the maximum bar length that can be buried in your wood and still keep up its rpm's. The sweet spot often is stated as follows:

50cc = 16" bar (.325)
60cc = 20" bar (3/8)
70cc = 24/28" bar (3/8)

I like this way of looking at it, but would say the numbers you have listed are closer to the maximum bar length for each given saw, than the "sweet spot." Eg. a 60 cc saw with the nose of a 20" bar buried in hardwood is going to get the job done, but it will be a little little slow. A 60cc saw with an 18" bar will cut real nice.

A 70cc saw with a 16" bar would be a real screamer! Maybe I should try my 20" bar on the 064.

 

[Firewood Bandit]

oh and the $32 rs chain...

How can you possibly do business with a saw shop that blatantly robbed you like that? I can't imagine a repair if they charged you that for a chain.

My dealer just sold me a 100' roll of Oregon LGX for $200, so 20" loops come out to under $9/loop. Stihl chain is good, but it is not that much better.

 

[isipwater]

Maybe this will help. The size (diameter) of your typical wood to be cut determines the bar length you need. There is a displacement "sweet spot" for a given bar length. One way of quantifying this is to find the maximum bar length that can be buried in your wood and still keep up its rpm's. The sweet spot often is stated as follows:

50cc = 16" bar (.325)
60cc = 20" bar (3/8)
70cc = 24/28" bar (3/8)

Now you can tweak this a little by changing a few factors. Some are listed below:

Stretch the 50cc bar length to 18", but if you plan to run 3/8 pitch chain, keep it at 16".
Put a 24/25" bar on a 60cc saw if you are cutting softwoods (if oiler can keep up).
Run a 16" bar on your 60/70cc saw if you want a high rpm screamer/fast bucker.
Run longer bars on the 70cc saw but use semi- or full skip chain.
Use longer bars for reach (back saver).

55/56cc saws (Stihl 290/ Husqvarna 455) are in the crossover area for chain pitch. May be run with either .325 or 3/8 chain.

Thanks for the detailed breakdown!

 

[TreePointer]

I like this way of looking at it, but would say the numbers you have listed are closer to the maximum bar length for each given saw, than the "sweet spot." Eg. a 60 cc saw with the nose of a 20" bar buried in hardwood is going to get the job done, but it will be a little little slow. A 60cc saw with an 18" bar will cut real nice.

A 70cc saw with a 16" bar would be a real screamer! Maybe I should try my 20" bar on the 064.

You're right about that--it should be more of a max bar length when buried instead of "sweet spot." My preference is to have the longest bar with which the saw can competently spin the chain when buried. When I bury a 20" bar with my 361 running full comp, 3/8 pitch chain and a 7-tooth sprocket, it will slow a bit in hardwoods. I definitely can't lean on it.

The reason I have a Dol-kita 7901 is so I don't have to feather the 361 when buried. I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a good 90cc+ saw. My dealer keeps telling me that he'll give me a discount if I purchase the first MS-661 he gets in stock.

 

[Ashful]

A new MS-661 would be real nice, but not so nice as to justify the price for this weekend cutter. I suspect they're going $1300?

I paid $500 for this 064 AV, which is sometimes quoted as the highest power to weight ratio of any saw in the Stihl line-up, although I have never checked the validity of those quotes.



To the OP, the saw on the right is the 036 Pro, my original recommendation to you.

 

[TreePointer]

A new MS-661 would be real nice, but not so nice as to justify the price for this weekend cutter. I suspect they're going $1300?

I paid $500 for this 064 AV, which is sometimes quoted as the highest power to weight ratio of any saw in the Stihl line-up, although I have never checked the validity of those quotes.

We get some big trees on the farm, but I can't see shelling out over $1000 for a saw right now, either. I'll probably end up with a used 660 or Husqvarna 395 at some point. The 661 talk between the dealer and me is more of a running joke. I'm often in his shop for lawncare & landscaping equipment parts, but he knows I'm after a big saw. He raises his brow and smiles at me when I walk by the 660 and 880 on the shelf.

 

[Ashful]

Ooh... the 880. My dealer always has an 880 on his rack. That is a saw for which I truly lust, but no way I'm spending that kind of money, just for the fun of using one!

 

[mike van]

A 70cc saw with a 16" bar would be a real screamer! Maybe I should try my 20" bar on the 064.

Last spring I got to a pile of locust logs I'd cut 4 years ago - Max 14 - 15" butts, tops too, about a 20 cord pile. I put a 16" bar on my MS 660 and got into that pile. You could probably compare that saw/bar setup to the Hattori Hanzo sword from the Kill Bill movies.