Sharpening chains

[b33p3r]

Anyone have a real good, sharpening handicapped site for putting an edge on chains in between paying to have a machine do it?
I'm the sharpening handicapped person. I'm getting a little better but the saw always "pulls" to the right after I touch up a dulling chain. I know that means I'm sharpening one side better than the other but anyone have any tips on how I can correct it. I'm pretty sure it's a right handed person sharpening the left side type thing????

 

[TreePointer]

I've experienced this problem when not using enough strokes per tooth, regardless of what side the tooth is on. Use more strokes--problem solved for me.

Are you using a file guide or freehand filing?

 

[amateur cutter]

+ 1 on the file guide. I used/use a granberg file N joint every so often to true my chains. It also "trains the right motion into my muscles for freehand filing. A C

 

[bogydave]

Anyone have a real good, sharpening handicapped site for putting an edge on chains in between paying to have a machine do it?
I'm the sharpening handicapped person. I'm getting a little better but the saw always "pulls" to the right after I touch up a dulling chain. I know that means I'm sharpening one side better than the other but anyone have any tips on how I can correct it. I'm pretty sure it's a right handed person sharpening the left side type thing????

Don't give up on yourself. We all learned by doing.
Don't let it get so dull it's throwing out dust, one pass with the file every 2nd tank of fuel.
When doing the easy side hit it with 2 file strokes, hit the hard side with 3 strokes.
Sharpen the hard side out closer to the end of the bar
You'll get better. Pay close attention to the angles & look to see the teeth are the same length.
Get a clamp on file guide if free hand just don't work for you.

When I finally got the chain so bad it wouldn't cut well, I bought 2 & worked them over till they wouldn't' cut.
I got several cords thru the 3 chains then took them to get sharpened & the right angles to start over again with my file.
Then I had 3 good sharp chains to work over again.
Make sure the sharpening outfit is a good one, ask around. A saw shop usually does a good job.
I'm allot better filer now, but even after a season of cutting, having the chains I used allot sharpened at the saw shop gets me ready for next season.
PS: check the raker height too, ask if you get them sharpened if they set the raker height

Good luck

 

[CTYank]

+ 1 on the file guide. I used/use a granberg file N joint every so often to true my chains. It also "trains the right motion into my muscles for freehand filing. A C

Been using the same one for 35+ yrs. Still works great- consistent ht & angles, so files last looooong, and chain suffers minimum metal removal.
Cradle to grave, it's the ONLY thing I use to file saw chains.

Real easy to freshen up a chain with a couple of strokes/cutter, to razor edge. Good excuse for a short breather- great stuff for safety.
Doing that, my little Echo spits some big chips, and it's thirty-something.

 

[LLigetfa]

+ 1 on the file guide. I used/use a granberg file N joint every so often to true my chains. It also "trains the right motion into my muscles for freehand filing. A C

I bought one of those for my father. He never could sharpen a chain. Unfortunately he couldn't use the Granberg either. Did not understand the parameters of angles and depth to set it up.

To properly set it up, you need to understand the angles and depth settings and what the end result should be. If you have that mastered, you are half way there to file freehand. Where the Granberg shines is consistency.

I do all my filing freehand so I can't give feedback on the use of simpler file guides, but IMHO the type that doesn't attach to the bar, that just holds the file and does not have any adjustments would be the way to go.

Have a look at this Pferd.

http://www.forestapps.com/pferd/pferdtool.htm

Also, the video:

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[Flatbedford]

I have had very good results a file holder setup. I bought the kit from stihl, but there are others out there.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_grindfiles.html
http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/filingkits.gif
Stihl has some pretty good videos on their web page.
http://www.stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3
You could watch them all or skip to Chapter 3 "Sharpening your Chain"

I rocked my chain the other day in the woods. After about 10 minutes I had it cutting like new.

Also, if you don't let the chain get too dull, the cutters will be very close to the correct shape and will be a good guide. As you practice, you will get a better idea or how to get good results.

 

[bpirger]

I know I had troubles until I realized one needs to replace files too! Now no problems...though I've bought one of those $90 Northern tool grinders....hopefully that will just let me get a number of chains done much faster.

 

[BrotherBart]

Eric Johnson cured me of filing chains for 40 years that cut crooked. File one side, turn the saw upside down and file the other side. Works better on a table with a vise or with a stump vise.

 

[wishlist]

BB, that sounds like a great idea. I hand file but always feel awkward on the "left side". Gonna try it tomorrow.

 

[bogydave]

Eric Johnson cured me of filing chains for 40 years that cut crooked. File one side, turn the saw upside down and file the other side. Works better on a table with a vise or with a stump vise.

I thought about that & wondered if that would help.
Great tip . Thanks
I'll try that next time too!

BB, you need to write a book on tips & tricks for wood cutting/burning, you've sure posted lots of useful ones.
Even if the Government satellites have you "locked on with thermal imaging" when the 30 is in full crank mode LOL :lol:

 

[Stubborn Dutchman]

I have had very good results a file holder setup. I bought the kit from stihl, but there are others out there.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_grindfiles.html
http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/filingkits.gif
Stihl has some pretty good videos on their web page.
http://www.stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3
You could watch them all or skip to Chapter 3 "Sharpening your Chain"

I rocked my chain the other day in the woods. After about 10 minutes I had it cutting like new.

Also, if you don't let the chain get too dull, the cutters will be very close to the correct shape and will be a good guide. As you practice, you will get a better idea or how to get good results.

This is the kit I use. I am cutting a lot of tops that are super dirty (storm damage remnants). I have to file my chains after every tank full and the kit is a great help. I'm not skilled enough to go free hand and the guide keeps me from filing to deeply and messing up the hook of the cutter. Using a stump vice and tightening up the chain help keep the angles correct. Just keep practicing and you will continue to improve.

 

[b33p3r]

Wow! Glad I posted my lack of sharpening skills! I knew I was having problems with right vs left cutters. I have a cheap guide that shows me the one angle but the tilt angle(for lack of better terms) I always guess. I'll definately try the granberg file N joint. That looks pretty nice and easy. Alot of good points here that will help me: Don't wait until throwing dust. A few passes every second tank. I am definately guilty of waiting too long to try and sharpen.
The tip about flipping the bar upside down is gonna be a huge help. Now I can sharpen all cutters with my right hand if I'm picturing things correctly? So I'll get a more consistant pass with every cutter. Another great tip is tighten the chain before sharpening. Obvious now that I read it!
Thanks to everyone. I'm actually looking forward to doin some sharpening.

 

[bogydave]

You run a .325 chain , right?
What type & brand is on your saw? Like anything, a specific chain for what you use it for can make a big performance difference.
Oregon & Stihl may have better, more aggressive semi-chisel chain than you can get "off the shelf" at the Box stores & stay sharp longer.
Stihl makes an RSC for it.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html#RSLFK
Oregon chain:
http://www.oregonchain.ca/products/sawchain/325.shtm#72V
Some Dealers & saw repair shops carry them.
Baileys has a big selection of chain, http://www.baileysonline.com/

 

[Kenster]

The tip about flipping the bar upside down is gonna be a huge help.

Yeah, well.. uh... be sure to check your fuel and oil caps before you flip the saw over.

 

[b33p3r]

Bogydave, Saw is a husqvarna 435. I only use a husqvarna chain on it. The chains last me well but I could save a couple bucks if I learn to touch the chains up correctly thus prolonging paying to get them machined. Thanks.

Kenstar, Good point!

Thanks again everyone!

 

[Nixon]

I use both the pferd ,and the Stihl systems . They work well ,just take your time . Out of curiosity,and the love of well made things, I ordered one of these . Www.timberlinesharpener.com

 

[bogydave]

Bogydave, Saw is a husqvarna 435. I only use a husqvarna chain on it. The chains last me well but I could save a couple bucks if I learn to touch the chains up correctly thus prolonging paying to get them machined. Thanks.

I have Husqvarna 359 & 2 new Husq chains when I bout the saw. My Oregon LGX chain out cut the husq chains & stayed sharper longer.
Now have 2 new RSC stihl chains (Christmas) to compare to the Oregon when I can get back in the wood this spring.
Not beating up Husqvarna chains, but when I put on the Oregon LGX, big noticeable improvement
I'm no expert by any means, but even I could tell how much better it cut.
Hoping the RSC is as good or better than the Oregon LGX.
A saw shop, chain saw guru told me to try the RSC, harder steel than the Oregon &
Oregon is harder steel than the Husq. (From his experience sharpening hundreds of chains anyway)
Also said: husq chains sharpen easy with file & dull faster because they are softer steel. ??
Figured his expertise was allot better than mine.

 

[Kenster]

I use both the pferd ,and the Stihl systems . They work well ,just take your time . Out of curiosity,and the love of well made things, I ordered one of these . Www.timberlinesharpener.com

Well, that looks pretty cool, and it makes sense, too. Kinda pricey, though. I wonder how often you have to replace those carbides.

 

[Nixon]

I use both the pferd ,and the Stihl systems . They work well ,just take your time . Out of curiosity,and the love of well made things, I ordered one of these . Www.timberlinesharpener.com

Well, that looks pretty cool, and it makes sense, too. Kinda pricey, though. I wonder how often you have to replace those carbides.

I'll let You know if I wear one out . I did hedge a bit and ordered two extra 7/32,and 3/16 th's carbides .
Also got the angle thingies for different tooth angles .

 

[MasterMech]

Bogydave, Saw is a husqvarna 435. I only use a husqvarna chain on it. The chains last me well but I could save a couple bucks if I learn to touch the chains up correctly thus prolonging paying to get them machined. Thanks.

I have Husqvarna 359 & 2 new Husq chains when I bout the saw. My Oregon LGX chain out cut the husq chains & stayed sharper longer.
Now have 2 new RSC stihl chains (Christmas) to compare to the Oregon when I can get back in the wood this spring.
Not beating up Husqvarna chains, but when I put on the Oregon LGX, big noticeable improvement
I'm no expert by any means, but even I could tell how much better it cut.
Hoping the RSC is as good or better than the Oregon LGX.
A saw shop, chain saw guru told me to try the RSC, harder steel than the Oregon &
Oregon is harder steel than the Husq. (From his experience sharpening hundreds of chains anyway)
Also said: husq chains sharpen easy with file & dull faster because they are softer steel. ??
Figured his expertise was allot better than mine.

Husqvarna chain IS oregon chain. I'm not sure about the chain model # matchups. Oregon makes the vast majority of chain for chainsaw OEMs. Only Stihl makes their own.

 

[Freeheat]

I use both the pferd ,and the Stihl systems . They work well ,just take your time . Out of curiosity,and the love of well made things, I ordered one of these . Www.timberlinesharpener.com

Let me know how you like that sharpner. I have been eyeing it up for a while , have to find a spare 125 .

 

[smokinj]

I have had very good results a file holder setup. I bought the kit from stihl, but there are others out there.
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_grindfiles.html
http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/filingkits.gif
Stihl has some pretty good videos on their web page.
http://www.stihldealer.net/videolibrary/OnePlayer.aspx?v=3&vt=3&vb=0&id=3
You could watch them all or skip to Chapter 3 "Sharpening your Chain"

I rocked my chain the other day in the woods. After about 10 minutes I had it cutting like new.

Also, if you don't let the chain get too dull, the cutters will be very close to the correct shape and will be a good guide. As you practice, you will get a better idea or how to get good results.

This is as easy as it gets. (For hand filing) Little bit of a leaning curve but pretty much point and shot.

 

[Flatbedford]

http://www.stihlusa.com/graphics/chainsaws/filingkits.gif

This is as easy as it gets. (For hand filing) Little bit of a leaning curve but pretty much point and shot.

...and about 1/5 the price of that fancy hand crank thing above.

 

[charly]

Anyone have a real good, sharpening handicapped site for putting an edge on chains in between paying to have a machine do it?
I'm the sharpening handicapped person. I'm getting a little better but the saw always "pulls" to the right after I touch up a dulling chain. I know that means I'm sharpening one side better than the other but anyone have any tips on how I can correct it. I'm pretty sure it's a right handed person sharpening the left side type thing????

Check for burrs on the side of the bar. Flat file them off. That will make it cut to one side, no matter how much you sharpen the chain.