Sharpening chains

[DodgyNomad]

I was going to pic up a 2 in 1 at the shop today, until I saw the $50 price tag. It can't be that good.

My local Stihl guy has them for 36 every day, and with my rewards thing, I got 10 off, so it was $26, so I bought 2 of them.

Worth every penny, imo. I've put away every other grinder, dremel, and doo-hicky. I also do my neighbors and families chains, and they are all amazed at how sharp I can get them.

Lots of other good sharpening options out there, but none that I've personally owned or used that's quicker and does a better job. I do recommend chucking your bar and saw up in a big vise if you're able and keeping it dead flat, and watching your angles closely for maximum results.

I built an adjustable hydraulic lift table setup that I use pretty much just for sharpening that has quick height adjust that really makes the process quick and accurate.

 

[Sodbuster]

My local Stihl guy has them for 36 every day, and with my rewards thing, I got 10 off, so it was $26, so I bought 2 of them.

Worth every penny, imo. I've put away every other grinder, dremel, and doo-hicky. I also do my neighbors and families chains, and they are all amazed at how sharp I can get them.

Lots of other good sharpening options out there, but none that I've personally owned or used that's quicker and does a better job. I do recommend chucking your bar and saw up in a big vise if you're able and keeping it dead flat, and watching your angles closely for maximum results.

I built an adjustable hydraulic lift table setup that I use pretty much just for sharpening that has quick height adjust that really makes the process quick and accurate.

I may have to try one in between grinder sharpenings. The main part I've never been good at is knowing how much to file the rakers.

 

[rowerwet]

I use the timberline sharpener for a factory sharp chain every time.
I swap chains in the field, it's much faster than sharpening.
I have 4 chains for my big saw, plus a longer bar and chain if needed.
I have two chains for my smaller saws.

The timberline sharpener makes a perfect chain without too much trouble, every time

 

[Ashful]

I may have to try one in between grinder sharpenings. The main part I've never been good at is knowing how much to file the rakers.

Grab a straight edge and a feeler gauge set. Pull out the .025” feeler (assuming Stihl RS-33 PM chain), set the straight edge across two sharpened teeth, and check the gap. If high, take two swipes with the flat file, and check again. Count swipes to bring it down below spec., then repeat on all subsequent teeth. You’ll have to reverse the chain in your vise to do the depth garage on the opposite hand teeth, unless you like the feeling of nails on a chalk board.

 

[Dairyman]

Grab a straight edge and a feeler gauge set. Pull out the .025” feeler (assuming Stihl RS-33 PM chain), set the straight edge across two sharpened teeth, and check the gap. If high, take two swipes with the flat file, and check again. Count swipes to bring it down below spec., then repeat on all subsequent teeth. You’ll have to reverse the chain in your vise to do the depth garage on the opposite hand teeth, unless you like the feeling of nails on a chalk board.

As the cutter gets taken back the lower the gauges need to be to keep the proper working angle. A progressive gauge is a better way to go.

 

[Ashful]

As the cutter gets taken back the lower the gauges need to be to keep the proper working angle. A progressive gauge is a better way to go.

Are you referring to the "set" of the gauge? I don't know anyone who sets gauges. I just keep them .025" - .030" below the cutters.

 

[Sodbuster]

Are you referring to the "set" of the gauge? I don't know anyone who sets gauges. I just keep them .025" - .030" below the cutters.

I'll take a set gauge tool on top of a new chain and check the raker depth. Unfortunately my new MS 261 has yet to see action due to tennis elbow . It's running the 26 RS chain which also calls for .025"

 

[Ashful]

I'll take a set gauge tool on top of a new chain and check the raker depth. Unfortunately my new MS 261 has yet to see action due to tennis elbow . It's running the 26 RS chain which also calls for .025"

Different thing. Set refers to how far the teeth are bent to either side of center, which is what Dairyman seemed to imply he was doing with his depth gauges. I sharpen hand saws saws by hand, and setting teeth is a normal part of that process, but not on saw chain!

 

[Dairyman]

Are you referring to the "set" of the gauge? I don't know anyone who sets gauges. I just keep them .025" - .030" below the cutters.

As the cutter gets shorter (length & height) the distance between the tooth & depth gauge changes the attack angle of the cutter. The depth gauge setting needs to be lower than .025-.030 to compensate for optimal performance. A progressive gauge setter like a file-o-plate will do this somewhat.

Some chain nuts go further.

Here's a good thread on the topic if your board.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

 

[gzecc]

I also use a dremel with the appropriate size cylindrical diamond bit.

 

[Ashful]

As the cutter gets shorter (length & height) the distance between the tooth & depth gauge changes the attack angle of the cutter. The depth gauge setting needs to be lower than .025-.030 to compensate for optimal performance. A progressive gauge setter like a file-o-plate will do this somewhat.

Some chain nuts go further.

Here's a good thread on the topic if your board.

https://www.arboristsite.com/commun...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

Interesting. That's a long thread... I'll have to read it tonight! I think I've been inadvertently doing this, though... I usually drop my gauges beyond .025" on my RS chains, having shown it gives me faster cutting, and I run bar combo's that allow me the required horsepower. As the chain gets toward end of life, I tend to drop the depth gauges more than I do on a new chain, but I never realized there was a proven reason to do this.

The trade-off is "grabiness", as the combo of low depth gauges and short teeth is not a recipe for smooth running.

 

[D8Chumley]

I use the Pferd 2 in 1 for all my 3/8” chains and my cheapo HF bench grinder for the .325 chains. I think I paid around $30 for it a few years back. I was thinking about the Granberg but I don’t know if I’ll actually get it

 

[maple1]

Ah ha, another filing thread.

How about this question that I haven't found a consensus on yet - if one side of your chain has teeth with more hook than the other side, will the chain pull toward the side with more hook or toward the side with less hook? (All else being equal with the chain).

 

[Dairyman]

Ah ha, another filing thread.

How about this question that I haven't found a consensus on yet - if one side of your chain has teeth with more hook than the other side, will the chain pull toward the side with more hook or toward the side with less hook? (All else being equal with the chain).

It'll be straight. All other things being equal.

 

[maple1]

So you think amount of hook, or a difference in hook between one side & the other, won't have any tendancy to cut crooked?

 

[Dairyman]

So you think amount of hook, or a difference in hook between one side & the other, won't have any tendancy to cut crooked?

I think the depth gauges will do there job.

 

[Bocephous]

After hand filing for years I bought a Timberline sharpener; I should have done it years ago.

 

[Jason721]

I started with a cheap chain sharpener from harbor freight. Got the job done and it worked well for me. A buddy bought a timberline sharpener and when he told me the price I thought wow that's a bit to pricy and not for me. Well till I used it a few times. Now I own one myself!

 

[venator260]

I always just free hand them in a vice with a round file. I seem to be able to cut straight enough, unless I cut into a rock hard. Then it may take a few filings before it's back to normal. I m not sure why I never thought of just bringing a sharp chain among if I'm away from the vice. May have to do that if I find a log yard to clean up. Im mostly behind the house or close to the garage, so a trip into the vice is a welcome break.

As for the rakers, I don't use a depth gauge. When the saw doesn't want to grab with a sharp chain, I take two or three swipes with a flat file across the rakers. If thats not enough, ill do it again. I try and go slow as i dont want to take too much. My dad used a grinder once. Great way to ruin a chain.

 

[maple1]

I think the depth gauges will do there job.

Here's another one. If one side as the rakers/depth guages lower than the other (more cut), which way will the saw cut?

I have assumed almost my whole life, that the saw would cut to the direction of the more aggressive teeth. But issues I was having with a 360 with a 3/4 worn out chain this summer have me thinking the opposite might be true? I was finding conflicting opinions. And I won't be using that saw again until next year to play with it more.

 

[BenTN]

I think the bar has more to do with cutting at an arch than an unevenly sharpened chain. I also think that an unevenly sharpened chain can certainly contribute to the bar groove opening when used continually.

 

[Dairyman]

Here's another one. If one side as the rakers/depth guages lower than the other (more cut), which way will the saw cut?

I have assumed almost my whole life, that the saw would cut to the direction of the more aggressive teeth. But issues I was having with a 360 with a 3/4 worn out chain this summer have me thinking the opposite might be true? I was finding conflicting opinions. And I won't be using that saw again until next year to play with it more.

I would think so as well. But as Ben noted the bar factors in as well. Are the rails proper and the gap true? I'd also look at the bottom of the cutter/straps. If wore to out of wack goofy things can happen.

 

[Dakotas Dad]

Not only do I love my Timberline, all my friends who have seen it in action, love theirs..