Sharpening Angles? How critical?

[oldspark]

For Stihl chain, its all 0, 30, then 60 to 80 (vertical) depending on the type. Whether you use 25 or 30 it doesn't really make much difference, but hook angle will matter greatly for staying sharp, particularly on Chisel chain.

This is from a post on arborist site, this is the 0 or 90 I am talking about, can not find the 10 recomended any where for the stihl chain, this was how I got confused in the first place as I could not find it for my chains.

 

[smokinj]

For Stihl chain, its all 0, 30, then 60 to 80 (vertical) depending on the type. Whether you use 25 or 30 it doesn't really make much difference, but hook angle will matter greatly for staying sharp, particularly on Chisel chain.

This is from a post on arborist site, this is the 0 or 90 I am talking about, can not find the 10 recomended any where for the stihl chain, this was how I got confused in the first place as I could not find it for my chains.

They also have 80 as well, but sounds like your understanding and mine are a little different if we set down together it probably would be the same maniacs Take a good pic of your cutter and post it if possible?

 

[oldspark]

I think I understand what you are saying, I was just confused on what stihl recomended, disco's post shows the 10 and 90 which is what I am talking about. I do all mine at the 90 as that is what it recomeneded, maybe I should sharpen one of my chains and take a picture because I do not seem to get them sharp any more.

 

[smokinj]

I think I understand what you are saying, I was just confused on what stihl recomended, disco's post shows the 10 and 90 which is what I am talking about. I do all mine at the 90 as that is what it recomeneded, maybe I should sharpen one of my chains and take a picture because I do not seem to get them sharp any more.

When hand filing (I don't do much anymore) I always put a tilt no matter what chain it is. Woodland pro full chisel chain has the tilt recommend 80 degrees guess that may be where I pick it up.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I have a question, does it matter which side of the tooth you file? I always filed on the same angle as the top plate and from the short side to the long side. I saw a video of a pro doing it and he actually filed from the opposite side of the chain from the point to the short side (if that makes sense). Also everyone talks about the guide on the chain. My eyes must be getting bad, I never see a guide on the chain.

 

[smokinj]

I have a question, does it matter which side of the tooth you file? I always filed on the same angle as the top plate and from the short side to the long side. I saw a video of a pro doing it and he actually filed from the opposite side of the chain from the point to the short side (if that makes sense). Also everyone talks about the guide on the chain. My eyes must be getting bad, I never see a guide on the chain.

depending what side your fileing from changes the angle but can be pulled of from either side. I like to push the file through.

 

[DiscoInferno]

Some chain has a witness mark (line) on the top of each cutter that shows the correct angle. I think it also shows how far down you can file the tooth, but not sure about that. My Oregon chain has it, but my Woodland Pro does not. I like having the mark, so I may go back to Oregon.

 

[daviddep]

Wow, thanks for the feedback and pics! Actually just bought at $42. bench/vise grinder from Norther tool. It got great reviews and I'm going to say it did great as well! Now, that grinder does not even have an adjustment for the 0 or 10 degrees. every chain gets 0.

also have the Husy all in one file/raker guide. That works wonders....

well, the chain calls for 10 and 25 in the manual. so I'm doing it 0 and 25 on the grinder. In the field, it will be 10/25 as i'm using the Husy tool. Great video on Youtube with a Pro who demos it.

The grinder sure is fun to use...makes me like a Pro....

but can anyone answer how "kickback" could be increased by not following the recommend angles??

 

[smokinj]

Wow, thanks for the feedback and pics! Actually just bought at $42. bench/vise grinder from Norther tool. It got great reviews and I'm going to say it did great as well! Now, that grinder does not even have an adjustment for the 0 or 10 degrees. every chain gets 0.

also have the Husy all in one file/raker guide. That works wonders....

well, the chain calls for 10 and 25 in the manual. so I'm doing it 0 and 25 on the grinder. In the field, it will be 10/25 as i'm using the Husy tool. Great video on Youtube with a Pro who demos it.

The grinder sure is fun to use...makes me like a Pro....

but can anyone answer how "kickback" could be increased by not following the recommend angles??

ok you should have a tilt on the grinder and most all chain is ground to 60 degrees tilt. so your #'s should look like 60/25

 

[DiscoInferno]

but can anyone answer how "kickback" could be increased by not following the recommend angles??

Well, kickback only happens with any (reasonable) chain if you touch the top of the nose of the bar to the wood without the top of the bar supported (as in nose-buried cutting or boring). So it won't change that. But the angle (and especially the rakers) helps determine how aggressive the chain cuts, and I would assume more aggressive = stronger kickback if it does happen. Probably some lawyers involved as well.

 

[smokinj]

but can anyone answer how "kickback" could be increased by not following the recommend angles??

Well, kickback only happens with any (reasonable) chain if you touch the top of the nose of the bar to the wood without the top of the bar supported (as in nose-buried cutting or boring). So it won't change that. But the angle (and especially the rakers) helps determine how aggressive the chain cuts, and I would assume more aggressive = stronger kickback if it does happen. Probably some lawyers involved as well.

I would rather have kick-back on a chainsaw over a table saw any day..lol unreal what a table saw can throw at you.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Yea Smokin, I remember the videos from wood shop class that scared me for life. I try to never stand behind a board when going through a table saw. I remember some gut shots (real or fake) that kind of sticks :vampire: with you.

As far as a chain saw a safety chain is less agressive and also probably stays sharper a little longer. Just does not cut as fast, I have not noticed any increased kick back, just always know what the tip of the chain saw is hitting. It is the branch you do not see that can be the hazard. Branches in general are the hazard as they can trip you, they can spring at you, etc. Rarely have trouble with a trunk, you just need to know how to keep from pinching the chain when the log starts closing, get it out, or use a wedge. Although I rarely use a wedge. Just normally cut from the bottom once the top starts closing. Roll the log when you can.

 

[John_M]

Danno and Disco +1. Disco is also correct about the witness mark on top of the cutter being the limit of how much metal may be removed from the cutter after which the chain should be replaced. ;-) Get your chimney cleaned and your wood stacked for this fall. Happy weekend. John_M