Seems like Jotul F500 is burning too hot

[Bulldogmoose]

Is it possible to have too good of draft causing the stove too burn faster


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Just doesn't make sense. The ash pan door seems like it has a nice tight locked position right now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is it possible that I could have too good of draft. Shutting the air completely never slows the fire down. I just came home to start the fire and as soon as I putnewpaper in and some kindling and a couple logs I lit it wit a match closed the door after about 1 minute and closed th damper and it lit and continued to go as if the air was open. This was the first fire of the night


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Check behind the ash pan first and make sure it is completely clean of buildup behind the pan. Ash can get compressed back there and push the ashpan forward. This can prevent the ashpan door from closing tightly. Or just pull the ash pan and try the dollar bill test again and see if the seal improved.

Is it possible that I could have too good of draft. Shutting the air completely never slows the fire down. I just came home to start the fire and as soon as I putnewpaper in and some kindling and a couple logs I lit it wit a match closed the door after about 1 minute and closed th damper and it lit and continued to go as if the air was open. This was the first fire of the night


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[defiant3]

Oslo's have a lot of gasketing, including the top and griddle. Hope you replaced all those as well as doors and glass of course.

Did you replace the 2ndary air manifold? And if not, were the cast parts on the end still tight? Also did you cement the 2ndary manifold thoroughly to the back where the air comes in? All 2ndary air should come in through the little holes in the air tubes only. If there is a leak I that system it would do what you're describing.

I love these stoves, and it's better to find a problem if there is one NOW rather than later when expensive parts have burned out. Maybe go around with an incense stick and see if smoke gets pulled in anywhere? That's easy and might smell good too!

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Oslo's have a lot of gasketing, including the top and griddle. Hope you replaced all those as well as doors and glass of course.

Did you replace the 2ndary air manifold? And if not, were the cast parts on the end still tight? Also did you cement the 2ndary manifold thoroughly to the back where the air comes in? All 2ndary air should come in through the little holes in the air tubes only. If there is a leak I that system it would do what you're describing.

I love these stoves, and it's better to find a problem if there is one NOW rather than later when expensive parts have burned out. Maybe go around with an incense stick and see if smoke gets pulled in anywhere? That's easy and might smell good too!

I did not replace the secondary air manifold. Where would the sir come in for the secondary holes


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bulldogmoose]

Oslo's have a lot of gasketing, including the top and griddle. Hope you replaced all those as well as doors and glass of course.

Did you replace the 2ndary air manifold? And if not, were the cast parts on the end still tight? Also did you cement the 2ndary manifold thoroughly to the back where the air comes in? All 2ndary air should come in through the little holes in the air tubes only. If there is a leak I that system it would do what you're describing.

I love these stoves, and it's better to find a problem if there is one NOW rather than later when expensive parts have burned out. Maybe go around with an incense stick and see if smoke gets pulled in anywhere? That's easy and might smell good too!

I'm figuring I use the jotul for this winter then look at options for next season


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[brushcll]

The thermometer is on the top of my stove and it's reading 600 right now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those stove top thermometers are not very accurate. It's just a small strip of bimetal that expands when it heats up and moves the pointer. When my stove top reads 500 it's actually 650 with my laser thermometer. Get yourself a good laser thermometer if you want more accurate measurements.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

 

[begreen]

Depends on the thermometer. Ours reads within 5º of a laser thermometer at 300 and 600ºF. Always good to check though. As noted earlier, 600F is not too hot and the scales for a flue thermometer are not an appropriate guide for stove top use. Go by temperature alone.

bulldogmoose, yes one can have exceptionally strong draft, though typically the Oslo like a strong draft. How tall is the flue system on the stove?

 

[Bulldogmoose]

I'll have to check when I get home


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[firefighterjake]

Those stove top thermometers are not very accurate. It's just a small strip of bimetal that expands when it heats up and moves the pointer. When my stove top reads 500 it's actually 650 with my laser thermometer. Get yourself a good laser thermometer if you want more accurate measurements.

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

It really depends on the thermometer . . . my experience in comparing the thermometer with the laser thermometer was that the two were relatively close . . . I think it was within 25 or 50 degrees . . . so maybe not close enough to bake a souffle, but close enough to insure the stove is not heading towards an over fire situation. You are correct though . . . some thermometers are not very accurate.

 

[richmhv]

Sounds like your chimney is quite tall. Mine burns OK being in a one floor house with a short chimney. 600 is fine. Make sure the gaskets are good including the ash door.

 

[Bulldogmoose]

This is the stove going after throwing a bunch of splits in. Damper is fully closed and the thing is raging.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk