Sawbuck almost done

[thewoodlands]

Building a sawbuck, just have to add some more cross sections with the chain on the bottom at both ends.

Zap

 

[Tony H]

Looks like your almost ready to test it out.
Just had to fix mine today ,too many heavy logs and not heavy enough upper cross braces. The new braces are 2x6 with 3 1/2" screws into the 2x4's

 

[LLigetfa]

You know, it's just a matter of time before you will run the chainsaw through that dowel. I would nail a couple of cleats across where they cross. Mine have quite a few "notches" already.

 

[LLigetfa]

Oh, and I would move those cleats at the bottom up a bit. You will be kicking them where they are.

 

[smokinj]

Oh, and I would move those cleats at the bottom up a bit. You will be kicking them where they are.

+1 move them up to the as high as they will go and then remove the dowel. Unless your making a folding one but that dowel will be eazy to cut.

 

[pistonslap]

absolutely move the cleats up and get rid of the dowel. I used 1/4" nuts and bolts on mine. That way you can move side to side when you cut and never have to move the log. When you're done it folds up and stores easier.

 

[John_M]

Looks good, Zap. The three unevenly spaced uprights are a strong and functional design. Are the two cross members with the shorter opening sized for a 16" cut?

I have a similar model in mind with 2"x6" treated(?) lumber and 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts holding each section together. I'll use 5/4" treated deck planking for cleats. Using treated lumber will make it too heavy for me to hump around in one piece so I might have to design it in easily attached sections. If I build it to be kept at the bucking/cutting site I wouldn't be humping it around very much, would I? We'll see. An adjustable chain at the bottom of each end will allow me to open or close the 'horse to adjust for log size. Sounds like you are planning a similar adjustable feature at the bottom of yours. You're way ahead of me at this point, though. Good luck, John_M

 

[thewoodlands]

Looks good, Zap. The three unevenly spaced uprights are a strong and functional design. Are the two cross members with the shorter opening sized for a 16" cut?

I have a similar model in mind with 2"x6" treated(?) lumber and 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts holding each section together. I'll use 5/4" treated deck planking for cleats. Using treated lumber will make it too heavy for me to hump around in one piece so I might have to design it in easily attached sections. If I build it to be kept at the bucking/cutting site I wouldn't be humping it around very much, would I? We'll see. An adjustable chain at the bottom of each end will allow me to open or close the 'horse to adjust for log size. Sounds like you are planning a similar adjustable feature at the bottom of yours. You're way ahead of me at this point, though. Good luck, John_M

Thanks for all the replies, will move the cleats up but will leave the dowel until I have to change it.

John I'm adding somemore uprights maybe 4 but at least 2, I'm cutting my wood at 14.75 so I will be adjusting them for that size.

zap

 

[smokinj]

Looks good, Zap. The three unevenly spaced uprights are a strong and functional design. Are the two cross members with the shorter opening sized for a 16" cut?

I have a similar model in mind with 2"x6" treated(?) lumber and 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts holding each section together. I'll use 5/4" treated deck planking for cleats. Using treated lumber will make it too heavy for me to hump around in one piece so I might have to design it in easily attached sections. If I build it to be kept at the bucking/cutting site I wouldn't be humping it around very much, would I? We'll see. An adjustable chain at the bottom of each end will allow me to open or close the 'horse to adjust for log size. Sounds like you are planning a similar adjustable feature at the bottom of yours. You're way ahead of me at this point, though. Good luck, John_M

Thanks for all the replies, will move the cleats up but will leave the dowel until I have to change it.

John I'm adding somemore uprights maybe 4 but at least 2, I'm cutting my wood at 14.75 so I will be adjusting them for that size.

zap

ok we need a video of your first couple runs. 390 long bar set up please! lol

 

[thewoodlands]

Looks good, Zap. The three unevenly spaced uprights are a strong and functional design. Are the two cross members with the shorter opening sized for a 16" cut?

I have a similar model in mind with 2"x6" treated(?) lumber and 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts holding each section together. I'll use 5/4" treated deck planking for cleats. Using treated lumber will make it too heavy for me to hump around in one piece so I might have to design it in easily attached sections. If I build it to be kept at the bucking/cutting site I wouldn't be humping it around very much, would I? We'll see. An adjustable chain at the bottom of each end will allow me to open or close the 'horse to adjust for log size. Sounds like you are planning a similar adjustable feature at the bottom of yours. You're way ahead of me at this point, though. Good luck, John_M

Thanks for all the replies, will move the cleats up but will leave the dowel until I have to change it.

John I'm adding somemore uprights maybe 4 but at least 2, I'm cutting my wood at 14.75 so I will be adjusting them for that size.

zap

ok we need a video of your first couple runs. 390 long bar set up please! lol

You want me to cut the dowel!

zap

 

[smokinj]

Looks good, Zap. The three unevenly spaced uprights are a strong and functional design. Are the two cross members with the shorter opening sized for a 16" cut?

I have a similar model in mind with 2"x6" treated(?) lumber and 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts holding each section together. I'll use 5/4" treated deck planking for cleats. Using treated lumber will make it too heavy for me to hump around in one piece so I might have to design it in easily attached sections. If I build it to be kept at the bucking/cutting site I wouldn't be humping it around very much, would I? We'll see. An adjustable chain at the bottom of each end will allow me to open or close the 'horse to adjust for log size. Sounds like you are planning a similar adjustable feature at the bottom of yours. You're way ahead of me at this point, though. Good luck, John_M

Thanks for all the replies, will move the cleats up but will leave the dowel until I have to change it.

John I'm adding somemore uprights maybe 4 but at least 2, I'm cutting my wood at 14.75 so I will be adjusting them for that size.

zap

ok we need a video of your first couple runs. 390 long bar set up please! lol

You want me to cut the dowel!

zap

if you take the dowel out and put bolts in 3 1/2in. your there but yes I would like to see a run with the dowel being cut.

 

[thewoodlands]

Looks good, Zap. The three unevenly spaced uprights are a strong and functional design. Are the two cross members with the shorter opening sized for a 16" cut?

I have a similar model in mind with 2"x6" treated(?) lumber and 1/2" hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts holding each section together. I'll use 5/4" treated deck planking for cleats. Using treated lumber will make it too heavy for me to hump around in one piece so I might have to design it in easily attached sections. If I build it to be kept at the bucking/cutting site I wouldn't be humping it around very much, would I? We'll see. An adjustable chain at the bottom of each end will allow me to open or close the 'horse to adjust for log size. Sounds like you are planning a similar adjustable feature at the bottom of yours. You're way ahead of me at this point, though. Good luck, John_M

Thanks for all the replies, will move the cleats up but will leave the dowel until I have to change it.

John I'm adding somemore uprights maybe 4 but at least 2, I'm cutting my wood at 14.75 so I will be adjusting them for that size.

zap

ok we need a video of your first couple runs. 390 long bar set up please! lol

You want me to cut the dowel!

zap

if you take the dowel out and put bolts in 3 1/2in. your there but yes I would like to see a run with the dowel being cut.

Smokin my mailmen came in the shop(he cuts wood) showed him the sawbuck and the first words out of his mouth was your going to cut the dowel.

zap

 

[daveswoodhauler]

Nice work zap....been meaning to build one myself.
Looks like you can use it they way you have it, and mod if necessary......just take a photo of the dowel cut in half and send it to smokin jay

 

[thewoodlands]

Nice work zap....been meaning to build one myself.
Looks like you can use it they way you have it, and mod if necessary......just take a photo of the dowel cut in half and send it to smokin jay

Smokin wants it for kindling.

zap

 

[smokinj]

Nice work zap....been meaning to build one myself.
Looks like you can use it they way you have it, and mod if necessary......just take a photo of the dowel cut in half and send it to smokin jay

Smokin wants it for kindling.

zap

my fire been going 24/7 since nov 1st no kindling needed but those dowels can be pricey.lol

 

[Tony H]

You know, it's just a matter of time before you will run the chainsaw through that dowel. I would nail a couple of cleats across where they cross. Mine have quite a few "notches" already.

+1 in just replaced my cross braces yesterday and already have a couple notches in the them !

I used 3' bolts and washers so it can fold and the cross braces are positioned so they determine the open range.

 

[LLigetfa]

Using treated lumber will make it too heavy for me to hump around in one piece...

I put a wheelbarrow wheel and handles on my sawbuck after I got tired of using a wheelbarrow to move it around. I built mine out of PT 4x4 with 2x6 cross braces so it's damn heavy.