My serial number was 1422. I did not see a rev number. On my control board I can adjust the fan from low to high or high to low and over ride the default setting using a thermostat. I look forward to the pics. thanks
Saranac FS Auger feeding way to fast
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http://s422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/lass442/stove/
Visit the link for pics. I find it ridiculously inconvenient to upload pics to the forum. Why use the space here, right?
Visit the link for pics. I find it ridiculously inconvenient to upload pics to the forum. Why use the space here, right?
Sammy and I bought our stoves from the same dealer at around the same time. My control board is definately different. The hopper looks the same, and the next time I break it down for a good cleaning I will compare the burnpot. At face value it looks the same. In the hopper pic I noticed that you have a lot of fine dust. I had to begin screening the bottom 1/3 of my bags of pellets because I had three auger jams. When I took everything apart, I found a hardened cake of fines which caused the jam. Have you had this problem? Since I started screening, no auger jams. Thanks for the pics and I agree, the less space the better.
I too have had that caked fine dust in the auger. I since then clean my pellets of most of the fine dust. I also have been removing the very small pieces (1/16 inch) pellets too. My auger now is extremely quiet except for the now very occasional crunch, creak. So it does definitly help out.
yeah, I noticed that the fines are building up, and I'm sure we have some caking around the auger base. Eventually I will vacuum that whole area. I did sift out the last 1/3 of the bag that wouldn't fir into the hopper this morning and there significant fines. So We'll have to work out a convenient, simple and clutter free way to incorporate this into our routine.
As I was writing this response, my husband walked in with the retro fitted burn pot from our dealer. The dealer added the fiberglass braid himself; this is not from the manufacturer. I took pics and posted them to the Photobucket album. Take a look and tell me what you think. We'll be trying it out after the next full cleaning. http://s422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/lass442/stove/
As I was writing this response, my husband walked in with the retro fitted burn pot from our dealer. The dealer added the fiberglass braid himself; this is not from the manufacturer. I took pics and posted them to the Photobucket album. Take a look and tell me what you think. We'll be trying it out after the next full cleaning. http://s422.photobucket.com/albums/pp304/lass442/stove/
I forgot to mention I also used high temp caulk and sealed the plate that covers the auger only on the top curved section. I found that cover plate had a very small gap between the plate and auger and put a small bead of high temp caulk on the cureved top section. That has made a big difference with the fines getting in the auger shaft. Because when you dump the bag into the hopper the fines could immediatly fall through that crack and clog the shaft. So I think that made the most difference. Plus if you ever needed to remove that plate it removes easily.
Sammy, I noticed that same gap. I wondered if it was there on purpose to filter the fines into the auger shaft. I can see the flame in the firebox through the gap; was curious about safety and if the fire could possibly jump in to hopper through that tiny gap.
So the braid is blocking the air holes. What is supposed to be the benifit to doing this? I think mine is working fine, I have no burn issues. or least I dont think so.
Blocking the air holes is supposed to redirect airflow so the pot doesn't fill up so fast. It'll be a few days at least before we know how effective this is. You know I'll keep you posted.
Sammy,
One of the things blocking those holes would do is allow more air through the pellet pile making for better combustion, another thing that would happen is it would raise the air pressure early enough in the burn, hopefully enough, to cause more of the ash to exit the pot instead eventually building up.
Another alternative would be to install a more powerful blower on the stove.
I can think of many things that could be done.
Maybe they should use a more adjustable control panel that separates the, auger, convection, and combustion fan controls.
lass442 and PhatT by any chance are you seeing a damp oily spot under your combustion fan motor?
One of the things blocking those holes would do is allow more air through the pellet pile making for better combustion, another thing that would happen is it would raise the air pressure early enough in the burn, hopefully enough, to cause more of the ash to exit the pot instead eventually building up.
Another alternative would be to install a more powerful blower on the stove.
I can think of many things that could be done.
Maybe they should use a more adjustable control panel that separates the, auger, convection, and combustion fan controls.
lass442 and PhatT by any chance are you seeing a damp oily spot under your combustion fan motor?
So do we all need this new and improved burn pot? Should a call be made to Hudson River to request one?
"lass442 and PhatT by any chance are you seeing a damp oily spot under your combustion fan motor?"
No, Smokey, dry as a bone in there. I do agree that the stove efficiency would be optimized with more adjustment options, and there may be some that I'm not aware of yet ( not addressed in the manual or self evident on the stove, itself ). I mean, it burns pretty good with the dumbed down / simplistic features, which maybe is a selling point in many markets, especially now.
"So do we all need this new and improved burn pot? Should a call be made to Hudson River to request one?" sammy, I'd wait, if I were you. If you're not having any burn issues at this point, I wouldn't go through the trouble, or put the company through additional expense until we figure out if this improves performance. PhatT mentioned that after a couple of days, it wasn't improving his stove's performance. I'll give ours a test run this week and mark any changes.
No, Smokey, dry as a bone in there. I do agree that the stove efficiency would be optimized with more adjustment options, and there may be some that I'm not aware of yet ( not addressed in the manual or self evident on the stove, itself ). I mean, it burns pretty good with the dumbed down / simplistic features, which maybe is a selling point in many markets, especially now.
"So do we all need this new and improved burn pot? Should a call be made to Hudson River to request one?" sammy, I'd wait, if I were you. If you're not having any burn issues at this point, I wouldn't go through the trouble, or put the company through additional expense until we figure out if this improves performance. PhatT mentioned that after a couple of days, it wasn't improving his stove's performance. I'll give ours a test run this week and mark any changes.
Me and my big mouth. I have not had an auger jam since I started sifting the last 1/3 of the bag until I shot my mouth off on this forum about solving the problem. No more than 8 hours later I get a jam. Anyway, I found a new way of clearing the jam instead of pulling the insert out, removing the hopper cover, emptying out the hopper, removing the auger cover and vaccuming. Simply straighten out a coat hanger and run it up the chute. I poked at it lightly where the chute meets the auger for about 5 seconds and the jam cleared. This is a hell of a lot easier than the previous method. We shall see how long it takes to jam again.
Like Sammy, I have not had any problems with the burn pot. I did, however, notice a small drop of oil like you all have the last time I pulled the insert out. It was a small drop so I did not pay much attention to it.
Like Sammy, I have not had any problems with the burn pot. I did, however, notice a small drop of oil like you all have the last time I pulled the insert out. It was a small drop so I did not pay much attention to it.
OK guys, here's an update. We started using the retro fit burn pot yesterday and we noticed more heat throughout the day. I shut down this morning to check for fines in the auger shaft and cleaned the burn chamber while I was at it. Emptying the burn pot, I noticed significantly harder clinkers and a lot more ash in the firebox. Bearing in mind the my husband vacuumed the firebox yesterday and might have a different method than I do, I'm not sure this would be a fair assessment of ash. When I vacuum the firebox, I remove the brick backing, vacuum all walls and front & back of brick kit, chute, all ledges around burn pot, plate beneath the pot and exchanger tubes, after I rake. So, that being said, I would say there was as much ash when I cleaned this morning ( after not quite 24 hours burning time) as there is after 2.5 - 3 days of straight burning.
Fines: I wonder if the finish in the hopper is designed the way it is to help the fines cling to the sides, reducing the amount going into the auger. I removed the auger shaft cover, vacuumed everything clean and found no fine cakes. It was really very clean in there. There was a good pile in the base, but no cakes at all. So I'm pleased with that.
Combustion fan was quite a bit louder upon restart.... hmmmm. It's quieted down now, after running for 20 minutes or so.
Fines: I wonder if the finish in the hopper is designed the way it is to help the fines cling to the sides, reducing the amount going into the auger. I removed the auger shaft cover, vacuumed everything clean and found no fine cakes. It was really very clean in there. There was a good pile in the base, but no cakes at all. So I'm pleased with that.
Combustion fan was quite a bit louder upon restart.... hmmmm. It's quieted down now, after running for 20 minutes or so.
During my bi weekly cleaning of the ash, I also clean the shoot out too by sticking a flexible rod into the shoot to dislodge anything that may be there. If you leave the burn pot in and then clean the shoot what falls out goes into the burn pot for the next startup. I have been doing that every cleaning as well as shifting the pellets and so far the auger been jam free and quiet. (Now that I just wrote this I am sure a jam is in my near future.LOL )So far so good.....
lass442,
As long as (much as possible of) the ash exits the burn pot (as soon as possible) and doesn't fall back in is what counts as far as the fire is concerned.
The ash around things outside the burn pot may or may not be an issue.
The true goal for the ash (inside as well as) outside of the burn pot is that it gets into the ash pan. This begs the question, why do they have as large a shelf behind the burn pot that they do?
I found out some time ago that my stove gets less ash in the burn pot if the log set and the decorative brick gets removed, with the brick in the stove the ash was forming rabbit ears behind the burn pot and every so often the ash would find its way into the pot (usually in the corners) , likewise some of the ash that settled on the log set.
Clinkers are another fun thing they are a fused carbon silica beast that can really build if temperature, ash content, moisture are just right. The stove itself contributes the carbon as it creates charcoal by burning off the volatile organic compounds in the pellets.
Since ash is a major contributer to several problems for running a pellet stove it helps a lot if the pellets produce little ash.
I'm still waiting for my dealer (they are quite busy) to get back to me on the burn pot and other matters. I have an alternative way of blocking the holes, it involves retort cement.
As long as (much as possible of) the ash exits the burn pot (as soon as possible) and doesn't fall back in is what counts as far as the fire is concerned.
The ash around things outside the burn pot may or may not be an issue.
The true goal for the ash (inside as well as) outside of the burn pot is that it gets into the ash pan. This begs the question, why do they have as large a shelf behind the burn pot that they do?
I found out some time ago that my stove gets less ash in the burn pot if the log set and the decorative brick gets removed, with the brick in the stove the ash was forming rabbit ears behind the burn pot and every so often the ash would find its way into the pot (usually in the corners) , likewise some of the ash that settled on the log set.
Clinkers are another fun thing they are a fused carbon silica beast that can really build if temperature, ash content, moisture are just right. The stove itself contributes the carbon as it creates charcoal by burning off the volatile organic compounds in the pellets.
Since ash is a major contributer to several problems for running a pellet stove it helps a lot if the pellets produce little ash.
I'm still waiting for my dealer (they are quite busy) to get back to me on the burn pot and other matters. I have an alternative way of blocking the holes, it involves retort cement.
Of course, for every issue that arises, my wheels start to turn. I think if I could redesign the burn pot myself, I might make it with a secondary lower chamber, like a reburn (similar to EGR in auto engines) pot to try to burn off those clinkers. I'd make this like a shallow, concave grate below the primary bp. Now that I'm thinking, I might incorporate this into the wide shelf around the burn pot, but make this shelf sloping, so that the ash gravitates toward the reburn chamber, hopefully sifting down more efficiently into the ash pan. I'd have to find a way to ensure that nothing burns in the ash pan.
There would have to be some sort of automated sifting mechanism to move the clinkers from the primary pot to the re-burn chamber. I suppose that would jack up the cost of the stove quite a bit, pushing it up into the next price-point market. Whatever.... I just have fun thinking about things like this.
Regarding your burn-pot; you could always start with blocking just half the holes first, or maybe just the ones on either the front or back, not both. Our flame is far cleaner, whiter and more active with all the holes blocked (thus hotter).
There would have to be some sort of automated sifting mechanism to move the clinkers from the primary pot to the re-burn chamber. I suppose that would jack up the cost of the stove quite a bit, pushing it up into the next price-point market. Whatever.... I just have fun thinking about things like this.
Regarding your burn-pot; you could always start with blocking just half the holes first, or maybe just the ones on either the front or back, not both. Our flame is far cleaner, whiter and more active with all the holes blocked (thus hotter).
Well the service guy was here today, I now have a modified burn pot in addition to the burn pot modification there was one place on the auger to feed cute connection that needs a bit of sealant added, looks like the folks at the plant missed a spot.
These both have an impact on the amount of combustion air that makes it through the burn pot and the air pressure that causes the ash to exit the burn pot.
PhatT, did the service guy also check the sealant between the auger and feed cute on your unit?
The service tech is going to talk to the plant about the combustion fan motor oil issue. I suspect I'll see him back in few days. That should not be happening.
Now we test out the changes ;-) .
Could someone please explain why you have to test out heating system changes on a warm day, and why you find the problems on a cold day?
These both have an impact on the amount of combustion air that makes it through the burn pot and the air pressure that causes the ash to exit the burn pot.
PhatT, did the service guy also check the sealant between the auger and feed cute on your unit?
The service tech is going to talk to the plant about the combustion fan motor oil issue. I suspect I'll see him back in few days. That should not be happening.
Now we test out the changes ;-) .
Could someone please explain why you have to test out heating system changes on a warm day, and why you find the problems on a cold day?
hey guys I am having the same probloem with my saranac. dealer gave me the new burn pot and still over filling with pellets. any new info i am ready to take this stove and throw it out the window!
I'm burning with a modified burn pot and it took care of just part of my problems.
First and foremost please describe the exact modification you have, your exhaust configuration, weather or not you have an OAK installed and if you do exactly how long it is, number of bends, and the outside weather protection for the OAK?
Also how many pellets you have burned, have you verified the auger timings to the chart in the book?
Have you ever removed the baffles behind the fake firebrick to do a cleaning?
First and foremost please describe the exact modification you have, your exhaust configuration, weather or not you have an OAK installed and if you do exactly how long it is, number of bends, and the outside weather protection for the OAK?
Also how many pellets you have burned, have you verified the auger timings to the chart in the book?
Have you ever removed the baffles behind the fake firebrick to do a cleaning?
i have burned about 30 or 40 bags of pellets. I do have an outside air vent kit hooked up I took the weather cap off of it so it can pull more air in, with it on it didnt even want to light.I just got the new burn pot they filled in the holes on the top with a weld just leaving the holes on the side of the pot and the bottom opened.the fresh air intake has only 1 bend in it.on my original burn pot they told me to cover the holes with burner cement which I did, it works better than the new pot.As far as the baffels behind the brick I dont see where are they. I have also tried different pellets to no avail. I run it without the brick or log set. Any help I would really appreciate. I have this stove for 3 months and I have not been able to use it. the place I bought it from has been giving me the run around since july.I am at my wits end with.I spent $3000.00 on it and it does not work.the timing is right auger goes on and off at rite time.
Remember do the following with the stove off and cool...
Looking at the area that was behind the fake brick on the right hand side of the firebox along the right hand side about half way up there should be a screw, if you remove that screw you'll be able to remove the right hand baffle ...
Looking into that area you are going to find a lot of ash by now .... it needs to be thoroughly cleaned the same goes for the other side of the stove (don't forget there is an air path behind each baffle that goes to the combustion fan and the exhaust system it needs to be cleaned) , do not remove the center baffle as there isn't anything except insulation behind it.
On my unit they made a mistake at the plant and had an extra hole drilled in the back plate, there should only be one hole for each side baffle, fill the extra hole if any with 2000 degree cement.
On the exhaust blower at the square adapter my unit was missing its RTV red silicone seal on one side of the adapter, check yours if it isn't sealed seal it, it is a possible smoke back point.
There is also the possibility the junction where the auger meats the drop chute is missing some RTV red silicone, you might notice a soot mark there, if you do seal that as well.
Inside the burn pot with the liner removed you have three holes for the air intake system, you need to make certain that they are cleaned and totally free of ash.
You didn't describe your exhaust system it must not present a lot of resistance to the airflow.
Could you also let me know the pellets you are burning and if under your combustion blower there is an oily wet spot?
Have you talked to Hudson River?
Looking at the area that was behind the fake brick on the right hand side of the firebox along the right hand side about half way up there should be a screw, if you remove that screw you'll be able to remove the right hand baffle ...
Looking into that area you are going to find a lot of ash by now .... it needs to be thoroughly cleaned the same goes for the other side of the stove (don't forget there is an air path behind each baffle that goes to the combustion fan and the exhaust system it needs to be cleaned) , do not remove the center baffle as there isn't anything except insulation behind it.
On my unit they made a mistake at the plant and had an extra hole drilled in the back plate, there should only be one hole for each side baffle, fill the extra hole if any with 2000 degree cement.
On the exhaust blower at the square adapter my unit was missing its RTV red silicone seal on one side of the adapter, check yours if it isn't sealed seal it, it is a possible smoke back point.
There is also the possibility the junction where the auger meats the drop chute is missing some RTV red silicone, you might notice a soot mark there, if you do seal that as well.
Inside the burn pot with the liner removed you have three holes for the air intake system, you need to make certain that they are cleaned and totally free of ash.
You didn't describe your exhaust system it must not present a lot of resistance to the airflow.
Could you also let me know the pellets you are burning and if under your combustion blower there is an oily wet spot?
Have you talked to Hudson River?
hey smokey thanks for the info. I do see the gap where the chute meets I will seal that up.as for the square exhaust i do see some red silicone on that. my exhaust system is a 3 inch simpson vent kit, that goes out side the house and up about 4 feet and has a chimney cap on it.I will take the baffles off tommorrow and clean.as far as the 3 holes under the burn pot should i try and stick something in to clean or just stick the vacum there.You also said there were extra holes drilled on the back plate, I dont know where you are talking about could you explain where it is.I have been burning eureka pellets, and have tried pike pellets, and white lightning pellets I finally got the number to hudson river on this site my dealer would not give it to me.there is no spot under the combustion motor any other ideas?? thank you and have a happy new year
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