Rocket stove mass heater

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they burn through fuel supply fairly quickly generating massive heat, The key to these is the long Horizontal flue out of materials that will absorb the heat from the exhaust gasses. and slowly release it into the living area. Somewhat similar to those massive rumford fireplaces. Therefore the living space must be designed around the heat source. Presently there are 3 rocket principal stoves on the market . The Wiseway looks like staircase) (designed by a guy on the west coast who then sold the rights to the present co.) Same guy has a new version out now( sorta looks like an old time wood cook stove) and one out of Ohio ( which can be run on pellets as well firewood). These are more traditional looking and do not require the tons of material as depicted in those vids. The basic principal was developed for third world countries primarily as a cooking source which would run on almost anything combustible and dirt cheap to construct and required very little fuel to accomplish the cooking tasks. I have been watching these for almost 20 years now. Non of these have been used in conjunction with phase shift materials ( water being the most common phase shift material ). Phase shift materials is another wood chuck hole to get lost in.
 
Masonry (mass) heaters can be efficient. Unlikely to be significantly more efficient than a modern (tax credit qualifying) wood stove.

But making one is expensive. More expensive than a wood stove.

They have their appeal, but advantages are often over blown. Can't get more energy out of the fuel that what is in there..
 
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It is the extremely high heat produced from the fuel in a bast furnace configuration that gives them a very high efficiency. Down side is fuel consumption is fairly high hence the need for the mass of phase shift material to capture the heat that would other wise just go up the flue. Can 't do long low burn rates in these, contrary to the design purpose. More of a batch burn system- ideal for say a hot water heat system rather than the current wood boiler units out there. Pellet system could be designed and already exits in a fashion if you look a pellet furnaces or sawdust furnaces. Sawdust furnace operation very similar to an oil furnace by spraying the saw dust in to the combustion chamber with the proper air fuel ratio. Europe is way ahead of the states in that respect. Most of what I have seen along these lines are geared to industrial applications and are fairly complex.
 
The subject comes up every few years.
 
Insurance can be a problem with these. They are pretty cool though. I think I’d opt for a regular masonry heater like a Tulikivi over a RMH.
 
I built a masonry heater. The science fascinated me. The main concept behind these mass heaters is to slow down the gas flow in order to absorb more heat from the burn. And to utilize the fact that heat rises. So when the heat current is forced in side and down directions it gives its heat up and keeps moving on. Big mass distributing lower Temp heat. A wood stove is low mass distributing high Temp heat. Wood stoves are more aggressive in their wood heating work. Mass heaters are more passive at this job.

After I finished the masonry heater, I cured it with small fires. Next, I loaded the firebox completely full with punky dry pine. I lit it off. I went out to check the chimney - I could see no exhaust (at all). Something is wrong! The fire must have went out. I ran back in to check. The fire was burning wildly. I was surprised, it really works. Everything in that burn was being consumed.

If I build another one, I will up my game. I will put in some passive water coils to heat water (passive = doesn't affect the burn, just collects extra heat from a distance). I will build in a bench this time. A bench is an eddy in the wood burning current. I will cut in the little air canals between the 2 layers of firebrick in the firebox for a 360 degree air distribution around the fire (a better burn). If I knew how, I would wire up a little fan into this air canal system that would adjust itself to max the burn - that is it analyzes the burn and feeds more air when needed or lessens air. This tech is out there but I haven't been able to examine it hands on yet.

The final result: an appliance burning in the low 80% range that heats up some water, too. Price point? - around $1500. I just wait for some dismantled kiln firebrick for sale. The rest of the materials aren't that expensive. The fire can really rip - but the heat is delivered passively/evenly through the enormous mass. Most like this kind of warming once they have experienced it.
 
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I had a long talk with a Tulikivi owner who put it in new when they built their house about 15 yrs. ago. They have mixed feelings about it and are using it less now. The owners like the steady heat in the dead of winter when temps get below freezing, but not so much during our long shoulder seasons. The problem is lag time and one of momentum. Their Tuli requires 2 fires a day. If one misses a firing because they go out to a show, or the kids have an away game, or other reason, then it takes a long time to recover and bring the house back up to temperature, usually after they have gone to bed. And if the night is cool but the day is sunny then one can't stop the heat buildup from the morning fire.

They are now asking me about installing a separate freestanding stove.
 
begreen living on the coast is like having a big mass heater already - the ocean. The ocean keeps the temps from getting too cold or too hot. I grew up on the Southern Oregon coast - my parents just used a few small wall heaters. It would snow every 3 or 4 years. Where I live now the temp spends 3 or 4 months in that 10 to 35 F range.

For anyone considering a masonry heater, I would start looking around for materials. You must start with the inner materials first - that is fire brick. I look on FB marketplace and find some sources of fire brick. Prices range from $1/brick up to $5/brick (and higher). One must study the brick - don't buy pumice type bricks - these are a no-go for a mass heater. But most firebrick are going to work fine. It is overkill for just burning wood. Light, medium, or heavy duty brick will all work.

I've narrowed my brick choices to these 3 in my area, $1 brick - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/466542649097329/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:57349aa0-e0fd-4bcb-9798-39f567d426d3
$2 brick - https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/424174999988695/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:57349aa0-e0fd-4bcb-9798-39f567d426d
and $3 brick, https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1881300572290863/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp:57349aa0-e0fd-4bcb-9798-39f567d426d3

Which to choose? I would go with that $2 brick. It is from PA (best brick state) and appears to be well made. It is probably a medium duty brick. And they look to be in good shape. The $1 brick is probably okay, too, but is more worn. The $3 brick looks to be new. Why not this brick? It is new out west. I'm guessing this brick is from California - it is inferior to the PA brick, and it will crumble easier - but it would work, too. My order of preference - $2 brick, $1 brick, and $3 brick. How much should I buy?

You are probably going to need over 1 pallet, but less than 2 pallets. See if the seller has a partial pallet or just buy 2 pallets. Now we need the hardware like a door, oven door, and cleanouts. I would try that company in Oregon for these parts @ https://www.firespeaking.com/product-category/masonry-heater-hardware/. But there are other companies, too. Remember a small door works fine even on a big heater. Now we need to figure out what we are going to use for the visible 4-to-5-inch outer layer.

Many things will work - river rock from your creek, no-nonsense concrete pavers, flagstone, engineered puzzle-piece stone, stucco, old common bricks, etc...... Find what you prefer. Buy some plans from the Masonry Heater Association @ https://www.mha-net.org/, and ask a mason or two if you could volunteer on a build. They will be thrilled - they will treat you like a mule hauling all of the heavy stuff and mixing the mud, too. Or go to a workshop/gathering. Ask questions. Of course, a masonry heater is best for new construction (in the right climate) because they weigh so much. Don't sweat it, you just need to reinforce the floor where the MH will be sitting.
 
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There are some wood stoves that are approaching the efficiency of these mass heaters. I was looking at the EPA test report of the Woodstock Keystone and the HHV efficiency at low and medium burn rates are well over 80%!

I also noticed that Tulikivi has a new secondary burn system in their heaters. I received a quote from a local guy to install a small Tulikivi and it came in at $24k. I think the heater was $13-16k but installation was more since I would have to beef up the floor.

Those Norsk Kebler small masonry heaters are tempting, I looked at one that was 1000 lbs and was $8-10k.
 
Yes, there is a thread somewhere. And there was a guy - 7 acres and a dog? who posted a picture-by-picture build. This helped me quite a bit. I think he took it down. I used mostly slanted fire bricks - which made things a little more difficult. There is a mason in your area, Eric Mosier, who puts on workshops sometimes. https://solidrockmasonry.com/

Here is my build, https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/mh-puzzling-together.155464/
Eric is the guy that gave me a rough quote on the Tulikivi. He also has some DIY kits.
 
fire chamber bricks cost wise is a density and upper temp range thing. Have to delve into heat treat furnaces and ceramic firing kilns to get a lot info on them.