All open would be the setting when first starting a fire to give it as much oxygen as possible to get it going. Then close the bottom first (seconds or minutes after starting to prevent it from roaring up the stack) and as it comes up to temp, close the top slowly (open a few turns to start) it will soon only require about a turn or less. Then close the pipe damper partially. It’s easy to close it too much. The object is keeping the flue temp above 250* to the top. At 250*f. The water vapor from combustion condenses on chimney flue walls. This allow smoke particles to stick which forms creosote. The thermometer shows surface temperature which is about 1/2 the actual flue gas temp. Putting the thermometer on the pipe where it connects to chimney gives you an idea of flue gas entering chimney, then it’s a guess how much cooling there is to the top. Larger diameter chimneys allow expansion of gasses which cool them considerably. You’re good from that standpoint. Outdoor chimneys and tall ones cool more towards the top, so they need to have more heat lost up them.
It’s not all about the stove, the chimney plays a very important part in what makes the stove work. Hot gasses inside the flue are lighter than outside colder air. As they rise, this creates a low pressure area in connector pipe and stove. This lower air pressure allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH into the stove. This feeds the fire oxygen to make it go. Pressure differential is measured as draft. The more temperature differential between inside and outside of the chimney, the stronger the draft. So as it gets colder, the stove will automatically burn harder. The flue damper slows velocity of rising gasses, decreasing draft. No one can tell you where to set it, or the stove controls since pressure, altitude, pipe configuration and chimney all affect the draft.
Since atmospheric pressure is always changing among other factors like fuel and pressure in house from exhaust fans etc. it is impossible to keep the draft exact. Since a coal fire needs much better control of air through the fire, a barometric damper is used with coal to keep the draft constant. They should not be used with wood since they OPEN a flap allowing indoor cooler air into chimney to cool the rising gasses and slow it down, regulating draft by cooling the flue. Coal creates no flammable creosote, so it isn’t a fire hazard. Wood smoke creates creosote, so during a chimney fire a barometric damper would open to slow the chimney, actually feeding the chimney fire oxygen. That type damper only works with the fire on stove side! Not to be used with wood.
Now you have an understanding of how oxygen gets into a controlled intake stove and what makes it work. Any stove will work with a good drafting chimney, no stove will work with a poor drafting chimney. Asking if a stove is junk is not a viable question. A stove that works well for one person may not be right for another. A newer stove will get more heat out of each piece of wood. But that wood has to be dried correctly and tested since newer stoves require higher quality fuel. If someone has a large area to heat in a hurry with less than optimal wood, they need a stove like yours. It will get hotter than a newer style stove, also burning more wood. Coal gives much more even heat without the temperature swings of wood. If you don’t have a saw, truck, trailer, splitter.... coal is SO much easier. One match lights it in November until you let it go out in the spring!
Anyone that gets injured, old, or just tired of wood is going to appreciate your stove and wish they didn’t buy a newer EPA wood only burner. It depends on location as well, being close to coal supplies can be a deciding factor.
Why would you not want to replace this or use it? In a emergency power outage, you can heat your house, cook and heat hot water! I have seen many ice storms with power outages a week or more here in NEPA.
It’s not all about the stove, the chimney plays a very important part in what makes the stove work. Hot gasses inside the flue are lighter than outside colder air. As they rise, this creates a low pressure area in connector pipe and stove. This lower air pressure allows atmospheric air pressure to PUSH into the stove. This feeds the fire oxygen to make it go. Pressure differential is measured as draft. The more temperature differential between inside and outside of the chimney, the stronger the draft. So as it gets colder, the stove will automatically burn harder. The flue damper slows velocity of rising gasses, decreasing draft. No one can tell you where to set it, or the stove controls since pressure, altitude, pipe configuration and chimney all affect the draft.
Since atmospheric pressure is always changing among other factors like fuel and pressure in house from exhaust fans etc. it is impossible to keep the draft exact. Since a coal fire needs much better control of air through the fire, a barometric damper is used with coal to keep the draft constant. They should not be used with wood since they OPEN a flap allowing indoor cooler air into chimney to cool the rising gasses and slow it down, regulating draft by cooling the flue. Coal creates no flammable creosote, so it isn’t a fire hazard. Wood smoke creates creosote, so during a chimney fire a barometric damper would open to slow the chimney, actually feeding the chimney fire oxygen. That type damper only works with the fire on stove side! Not to be used with wood.
Now you have an understanding of how oxygen gets into a controlled intake stove and what makes it work. Any stove will work with a good drafting chimney, no stove will work with a poor drafting chimney. Asking if a stove is junk is not a viable question. A stove that works well for one person may not be right for another. A newer stove will get more heat out of each piece of wood. But that wood has to be dried correctly and tested since newer stoves require higher quality fuel. If someone has a large area to heat in a hurry with less than optimal wood, they need a stove like yours. It will get hotter than a newer style stove, also burning more wood. Coal gives much more even heat without the temperature swings of wood. If you don’t have a saw, truck, trailer, splitter.... coal is SO much easier. One match lights it in November until you let it go out in the spring!
Anyone that gets injured, old, or just tired of wood is going to appreciate your stove and wish they didn’t buy a newer EPA wood only burner. It depends on location as well, being close to coal supplies can be a deciding factor.
Why would you not want to replace this or use it? In a emergency power outage, you can heat your house, cook and heat hot water! I have seen many ice storms with power outages a week or more here in NEPA.
