RIP LED #1

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I just replaced 2 phillips 90 watt halogen floodlight bulbs with 2 led equivalents. The led's have nowhere near the light output of the 90 watt halogens they replaced but they only use 13 watts. Further research shows the halogen's are 1350 lumens and the leds are only 900. The equivalent wattages and color output are the same. The ecosmart 90w led 2 pack only cost me $6 with CT's instant energy efficiency rebate program on them at HD so no complaints on the price. I guess I will look into buying a120 watt led equivalent to get close to the same light.

Original halogen
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...door-Flood-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-429373/203231668
Led
http://www.homedepot.com/p/EcoSmart...d-Light-Bulb-2-Pack-5bHPR1000SW1D19/206668154
 
A few years back I replaced three ceiling lights with PAR-type LED floods from (I think) EcoSmarte. These were probably 1st gen models and, as I recall, were pretty pricey. They lasted about two years and then, within the space of a few weeks, they went bad one by one. They all died the same way--they just started strobing. So maybe there was some quirk with the circuit boards that caused premature failure of the bulb even though the LED part still worked. I replaced them with newer and cheaper LEDs that are still working fine.

I've been gradually swapping in LEDs elsewhere in the house but hit one snag...we have a few closet fixtures controlled by digital timer switches but those don't work with LEDs. I checked Lutron's website but didn't see any similar switches that are compatible with LEDs. You'd think it shouldn't be that hard but it seems like the switch does some kind of load testing that LED bulbs fail.
 
If I recall correctly the timer has to be a four wire version not three. I have a push button timer and had to get one that had 4 to get it to work with leds. Something about when incandescent lights are off they still pass voltage through but when leds are off nothing or hardly anything flows through and most timers require that pass through voltage to work. I'll try to find exactly what it said.

The 4th wire gets connected to the live wire so the timer has the voltage required to work correctly.

Lopi Rockport