Replacing the inner top plate in VC Dutchwest Sequioa

[sticks]

On chipping the cement I finally started using a air chisel on a low pressure setting. In the past I was worried about breaking the cast but never have just be careful . When I finished my forearms were sore either way. I think the back plate is bolted to the bottom plate. In its present status if all the bolts are out I would think you could remove the back plate by hand.

 

[touchthewindrider]

On chipping the cement I finally started using a air chisel on a low pressure setting. In the past I was worried about breaking the cast but never have just be careful . When I finished my forearms were sore either way. I think the back plate is bolted to the bottom plate. In its present status if all the bolts are out I would think you could remove the back plate by hand.

Actually, I'm using an old screw driver to chip away the big stuff and coming back with a dremel to grind down the reminding cement. Yes...the back and fore arms are sore. Arms more so....

Here is a photo of the bottom inner plate. It is cemented to the bottom. It prevents being able to get to the bolts holding the back onto the bottom. I'm guessing I just have to figure out a way to drive a thin chisel in the cement channels to break it lose from the bottom. Then I'll be able to remove the back.

 

[touchthewindrider]

Also, here is more of the furnace cement removal status. Chipping the larger pieces and going back with a dremel tool to grind down any remaining bits of cement seems to work out pretty good.

 

[sticks]

nice job on cleaning the channels I will take a look at work tomorrow and see ican figure out what is going on with that back plate

 

[touchthewindrider]

nice job on cleaning the channels I will take a look at work tomorrow and see ican figure out what is going on with that back plate

Thanks Sticks...the inner bottom plate sits on ridge plates (verticals - about 4 inches in height) on both sides and straight along the back, which are cemented into channels on each side, and across the back, on the bottom. Trying to figure out how to get them lose, is a bear! In the above photo, there is a "short" portion of the "vertical" plate in the lower left side of the photo. It runs in (toward the center of the bottom) about four inches and turns right running back toward the rear of the stove, a good 12 inches, then turns left and runs across the back of the bottom until turning left and duplicating the right side. (if that makes any sense, at all.).

This bottom plate, and the back of the stove are the only things keeping me from putting it back together. I'm going to wait until "showtime" to install all the new gaskets. We'll see.....

Thanks again!
Cliff

 

[BrotherBart]

I am surprised the wire wheel doesn't get the furnace cement out. I used a steel wheel on a Jotul rebuild and it knocked the stuff right out. And have used one many times to get it out of stove doors when replacing door gaskets.

Big job ya got on your hands there. But worth it when it is done. People over the years have loved those stoves.

And I will be a good boy and not make any Porta-Potty remarks like I usually do about the Sequoias.

 

[touchthewindrider]

I am surprised the wire wheel doesn't get the furnace cement out. I used a steel wheel on a Jotul rebuild and it knocked the stuff right out. And have used one many times to get it out of stove doors when replacing door gaskets.

Big job ya got on your hands there. But worth it when it is done. People over the years have loved those stoves.

And I will be a good boy and not make any Porta-Potty remarks like I usually do about the Sequoias.

You're most likely correct...a steel wire wheel would have worked much better than the brass one I tried. But, the dremel ended up doing the job.

The stove has given many warm evenings and spared us from dependency on the power company (or gas guy), for several years. I just can't admit defeat, I guess. Of course, it's NOT back together, yet!! Too funny

 

[touchthewindrider]

UPDATE: the inner bottom plate has been freed and removed. Now, the back can come off. Furnace cement removal will commence. Once completed, installation of new gaskets with take place and then...wait for it.....reassembly will begin! I'll update you once assembly begins. It'll have to wait for a few days, most likely. In the
meantime..."yes dear...the wood stove parts scattered all over the living room is not a bad thing...I promise."
Later....
Cliff

 

[touchthewindrider]

First off...Happy Father's Day everyone

Second off: guess what I'm doing on Father's Day? Yep....working on putting my wood stove back together.
Every part, every furnace cement channel, every gasket channel, is cleaned and ready for reassembly.

I bought a gasket kit for the Sequoia and it came with 3/8", 1/4", 3/16" diameter gaskets...plus and 8' long 3/4"
wide, flat gasket. I've figured out where the others go, but for the life of me, I do not know where the 3/4" flat
gasket goes. (oh..it has adhesive tape on the back side.) Any ideas?

I'd like to get this suck put back together. It's laying all over my pool table
Thanks!
Cliff

 

[begreen]

Just a guess... The flat tape sounds like it may be the door window gasket. If so, it folds over the edge, sticky side toward the glass.

 

[touchthewindrider]

Just a guess... The flat tape sounds like it may be the door window gasket. If so, it folds over the edge, sticky side toward the glass.

Thanks begreen. I'll check that out. Curious, though....there is like 8 feet of it. hmmmmmm....

 

[touchthewindrider]

UPDATE: I worked late into the evening last night and was able to basically finish her up this morning. The inner top plate was missing a part, but I got on the phone and ordered it. Now, I'll put gaskets in the doors and top and then I'm ready to seal her up. The 13/16" flat, with the adhesive, gasket was...a mistake sent from the parts guys. Oh well....

I learned this....do not tighten any of the bolts up as you assembly your stove. Parts, sides, back, grate, etc...need to move around a bit to allow the other parts to slip into place. Once everything is together, then tighten it up. Overall, it really wasn't a horrible task. Take your time...attention to detail....take your time...don't be in a hurry.

Thanks everyone for your input. Sticks...thanks!!
Cliff

 

[touchthewindrider]

Okay. I'm stuck. Over the last few days I've installed new gaskets all around. Tonight I decided to install the damper, rod, etc.... As I was sliding the damper operating rod through the exterior of the stove and through the inner top plate, it wouldn't slide through. I realized that the inner top plate has to be threaded. (I've got to tap the hole.) I had to do the same at the front of the inner top plate for the tab/bolt holding the primary air damper in place.

The damper operating rod looks to be a 1/2 inch. My question is: are the threads "right handed" or "left handed?"
Any ideas out there?
Thanks
Cliff

 

[sticks]

It might be easier to get the updated rod. They use to have a kit but I am not sure if they still have it. It doesn't have threads and won't stick

 

[begreen]

Okay. I'm stuck. Over the last few days I've installed new gaskets all around. Tonight I decided to install the damper, rod, etc.... As I was sliding the damper operating rod through the exterior of the stove and through the inner top plate, it wouldn't slide through. I realized that the inner top plate has to be threaded. (I've got to tap the hole.) I had to do the same at the front of the inner top plate for the tab/bolt holding the primary air damper in place.

The damper operating rod looks to be a 1/2 inch. My question is: are the threads "right handed" or "left handed?"
Any ideas out there?
Thanks
Cliff

Use your fingernails as a thread guide and try threading the rod into them. Do you need to turn it clockwise or counter-clockwise to thread it in?

 

[touchthewindrider]

Update: I purchased a 5/8 11pitch tap. The plate tapped very easily. Rod went in no problem. And yes, it does
turn clockwise. I've never had a problem with the rod sticking. Anyway, it's a done deal at this point. I put in an incorrect gasket size for the top and tested it out with a tiny "smoky" fire. Yep...smoke poured out the top. I removed the gasket and installed the correct size: 3/8. (I screwed up thinking a 5/8" gasket would seal the top better...NOT)

Okay, now back to splitting wood.