Hi Sam,
I have a SCAN 60, which is basically the same stove.
To see if it's a draft problem, clean all the ash out of the firebox, open the shaker-grate to 1/2 way open and leave it
there for the entire duration of your burn day; Clean out the ash drawer (a full ash drawer will block the airflow);
Build your fire; after a few minutes, pull the ash drawer out about 1 inch; that lets the air in; control your
airflow in this way; the drawer is made longer than it needs to be and will still catch all the ash falling through
your shaker-grate.
Now, if the fire, at this point is blow-torching (like a pellet stove), then you've got a proper draft. If it's not and it's
just looking like a fireplace fire with no blow-torch effect then it's the draft and you need to work on extending
your stove pipe or (perhaps clenaing?) something else in the flu area.
Clean the firebox every day, completely (don't leave any ash, that technique does not apply to this stove) and the
ash drawer before burning each day.
Once your house is up to temperature, you can close the ash drawer and that will allow a
long, slow burn and reduce the stove's heat output and keep the house nice and cozy. I use a poker to adjust
the ash drawer so I don't have to put any gloves on.
If your firewood is starting fine and not sizzling or hissing then it's probably dry. We have warm summers here in CA
and our firewood cures in only a month or two. I process at least 6 cords a year and never need to let it sit out a full year...
Your area may be different though... You don't need a moisture meter to tell if you have dry wood...