replacement windows

[mcdougy]

Nail flange (new construction) is better 99.9% of the time. Its not unusual to find retro windows glued on to the existing window frame with 2 screws and double sided tape. And a 3 to 6 inch border trim of vinyl around the window is real tacky. I think in my area most of the retro installers hide their own easter eggs.

I agree that what you are is the incorrect way to install a window, but you are referring to a complete tear out or slide in the old frame. Again I agree that a complete tear out is the proper way to replace a window. The only time a window may be needed to be installed in the old frame is if the trim line becomes a major issue for the homeowner. Sometimes they love their old trim so much that it's impossible to make a new window fit up to it. In general with old wood frame single pane windows it's impossible to have both the exterior fit tight and the interior match perfectly. All this is dependent on the how old the windows are that are being ripped out. Exterior finish is a factor as well. Tell me how to use a nailing fin on brick exterior in a replacement application.

 

[Jazzberry]

I agree that what you are is the incorrect way to install a window, but you are referring to a complete tear out or slide in the old frame. Again I agree that a complete tear out is the proper way to replace a window. The only time a window may be needed to be installed in the old frame is if the trim line becomes a major issue for the homeowner. Sometimes they love their old trim so much that it's impossible to make a new window fit up to it. In general with old wood frame single pane windows it's impossible to have both the exterior fit tight and the interior match perfectly. All this is dependent on the how old the windows are that are being ripped out. Exterior finish is a factor as well. Tell me how to use a nailing fin on brick exterior in a replacement application.

Lots of different choices depending on the existing brick assembly. Fir strips, angle strips, interior framing. Sometimes it may be the only choice you have but it would definitely be my very last choice.

 

[lml999]

I've got the opposite problem, Good double hung, double pane windows, installed 25 years ago. Most are still tight, a few have broken seals. I have replaced some of the weather strips. I'd keep them if I could...

The problem is that some of the pine window sills and trim are rotting. A good local carpenter said he would not take on replacing the sills, didn't think we'd like the results. He suggested replacing the entire window units. Probably the right way to go...

We have some other rotting trim to replace around the house, and I'm leaning toward finding *good* treated wood trim or western cedar versus going with composite.

 

[Don2222]

I've got the opposite problem, Good double hung, double pane windows, installed 25 years ago. Most are still tight, a few have broken seals. I have replaced some of the weather sealing. I'd keep them if I could...

The problem is that some of the sills and trim are rotting. A good local carpenter said he would not take on replacing the sills, didn't think we'd like the results. He suggested replacing the entire window units. Probably the right way to go...

We have some other rotting trim to replace around the house, and I'm leaning toward finding *good* treated wood trim versus going with composite.

Composite is more expensive but will never rot, so why not go with composite?

 

[Jazzberry]

Composite is more expensive but will never rot, so why not go with composite?

Composite or redwood. Treated is not my favorite for anything in contact with moisture.

 

[mcdougy]

I'm thinking that lml999 may be referring to mdf. The glass units if the seal is leaking can be replaced at a relatively inexpensive cost. What in your opinion has caused the trim to rot? The old window before replacement or the new window leaking in some way?

 

[lml999]

I'm thinking that lml999 may be referring to mdf. The glass units if the seal is leaking can be replaced at a relatively inexpensive cost. What in your opinion has caused the trim to rot? The old window before replacement or the new window leaking in some way?

All of the windows are original. I have not done any work on them, except for some weather stripping replacement.

Windows are RIVCO. Company went out of business a few years ago, and another company has spare parts available. For the blown seals, there's a local company who will take apart each sash and install new double glazed units. Cost is about $90 per sash, depending on glass options.

Location is Cape Cod, a moderately moist environment. We're several miles from the seashore.

The window problem is that some of the wood sills are rotting, along with some of the side trim. All were installed 25 years ago. Curious that while some windows are fine, others are problematic.

We will probably end up replacing the windows a couple at a time. Nicely, they're almost all the same size, so I can recycle sashes with good seals to other windows.

Other trim on the house is also showing rot -- trim boards, fascia, door trim, etc. I expect that the combination of cheap pine trim and the environment has caused this.

I have some door and window trim to replace, and I'm going to do as much as I can myself. For those pieces I'm going to use wood, perhaps western cedar or something else that the good local lumberyard will recommend. Existing trim is painted.

I'd prefer not to go with composite on those areas because I've heard of paint and shrinking/expansion problems.

For the roof rake boards, high up, any minor shrinking/expansion won't be visible. I'm not doing that work.

 

[peakbagger]

Despite the claim of Rivco's being premium windows, they were regarded by most of the builders I knew as a "builders special" window. About the same as Brosco's.

I expect your observation that the trim being white pine is source of the rot is probably dead on. Its great wood to work with but white or red cedar has far longer life in damp environments. Pine needs to have some sort of surface treatment to shed water for it to last outdoors and once that treatment fails it will start checking and then every time its damp the water gets into the wood and swells and cracks it some more.

A product that I have been considering is thermally modified wood. The claim is that it can be left uncoated and holds up to seashore use.

(broken link removed to https://cambiawood.com//siding/). I have not researched the cost but would be glad to trade some of my tall straight aspens for some siding

 

[blades]

Condensation on the interior glass surfaces generally are the reason for rotted sills. secondly is moisture intrusion from the exterior generally caused by poor installation in the first place or settlement of the dwelling over time affecting the construction and fitment.

 

[Jazzberry]

I found a lot of it was also due to deteriorated caulking of the trim and overgrown landscaping. Wet and dry cycles are usually not too bad but if it holds moisture for long period before drying out the results is dry rot. Forget to caulk the trim before you paint traps moisture inbetween the siding and trim. No airflow allows the trapped moisture to start rotting from the inside out.

 

[mcdougy]

Are you folks referring to interior or exterior trim? Here (Ontario Canada) wood as exterior trim or wood exterior windows haven't been used in 40 years.

 

[blades]

wood framed home -- closest thing to wood framed windows -expansion and contraction wise is fiberglass assemblies. There in states the problem with vinyl and alum. framed windows. Alum -extreme thermal conductivity. Vinyl shrinks as it ages. Fiberglass very expensive. ( that could have change since the last time I researched them) .. Been using alum. clad wood framed units on the 3 places I have redone full frame windows in. Current place I just replaced the thermo pane glass portion of the Anderson units. Collapsed pane syndrome- Anderson windows cica 89-91 mfg date. casement type. Bought the place in the summer so didn't know about the windows until winter before last.

 

[mcdougy]

This is a typical window here.

 

[mcdougy]

Energy star rating for mid and southern u.s.a zones 1&2