And I am sorry that your dealer did not take care of the issue to start at this point it has been modified and gone so far recency will never honor the warranty. But again I would not use a stove damaged that badly in my home.
Regency i3100 Insert Baffle
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Apology accepted and understood; thank you.
I've clearly stumbled into your area of passion and expertise.
I've been a professional woodworker for several decades; I'll bet that I'd have a few opinions about whatever woodworking projects you might have going
. We tend to be invested in the work we do professionally, at least I hope that this is true!I can only offer that some of us may not have the positive, ongoing connections to Regency that you enjoy and do not have the ready cash to buy a new stove.
I'm glad that this isn't your experience.
Furnace cement, In my experience, as well, does not hold up well on its own. Where it touches metal, the movement of the metal and cement happen at different rates, causing fracturing.
Additionally, the cement doesn't last well when applied in large masses, it seems. The directions suggest applying thin coats; this seems to work best. I've applied it in successive layerings, where I've used it successfully.
The reason for my post was that I've done something different, following the concept of basic concrete work or plastering; relying on a steel mesh for tensile strength and form, with a thin layer of cement forced into, and covering, the mesh.
My results, so far, are that furnace cement applied firmly onto the stainless steel armature has held up well, over the last month, after several fires, with no cracking or distortion.
That was the reason for my post; I experimented with using the SS wire as a "lath" and the cement as a "plaster" and it has worked very well, so far.
I'll be sure to post, either way, a couple of months into the real heating season; so far, so good.
The recently expanded size of the baffles and redesign of the deflector are clear enough evidence for me that Regency finally understands that there was a problem directing fire at the unprotected top/front area.
As I mentioned in my initial post, I also used my stainless mesh/fire cement approach to mend cracked baffles; this has also held up well; the mesh serves as structural strength to the joint, when "bedded" in furnace cement. The mended baffles are going strong. At $75 + for a set of baffles, mending was a better option for me.
The work I've done at the top/front is easily reversible, should I ever choose to do so; the basic stove is not modified. I've just covered the vulnerable area.
The cracking/distortion is well within the door's area, my gaskets are fresh and their perimeters are sealed with hi-temp caulking. There is no flatness distortion out at the door seal and no burn through or cracking at the top of the stove's firebox.
Frankly, it is working better than ever, happily!
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To freshen/resurface the firebricks. I've been doing that every couple of years and it has worked well.
$15 worth of fire cement vs. the cost of a new firebrick set, etc.
I appreciate the choice of "slathered" as your verb. The whole operation was a pretty messy effort.
I fit/drilled/bolted my new deflector in place, then bent the stainless mesh into a sleeve that hooked over the lip of the window wash intake (at the top) and snapped around the new deflector (at the bottom). One can see the mesh bent into the final shape, held by my gloved hand, in my original post.
I was careful to leave the air intake slot open for the window wash; the subsequently applied cement stopped at that intake; it is open, there, with only the stainless mesh hooked over the existing sheet metal. That was the end of the "clean" work.
Then the messy work began. I'd moistened everything well with water in a spray bottle, in advance, so I filled a drywall mud pan and applied the cement with 2", 4", and 6" drywall knives.
I used rubber gloves up to my elbows, safety glasses, and a headlamp.
I had a couple of water buckets and plenty of rags handy.
I cleaned up outside, with the garden hose...
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I was a cabinet maker for years before partnering with my father in his chimney business. I still have my shop and honestly I am still more passionate about that than chimneys.Apology accepted and understood; thank you.
I've clearly stumbled into your area of passion and expertise.
I've been a professional woodworker for several decades; I'll bet that I'd have a few opinions about whatever woodworking projects you might have going
I can only offer that some of us may not have the positive, ongoing connections to Regency that you enjoy and do not have the ready cash to buy a new stove.
I'm glad that this isn't your experience.
Furnace cement, In my experience, as well, does not hold up well on its own. Where it touches metal, the movement of the metal and cement happen at different rates, causing fracturing.
Additionally, the cement doesn't last well when applied in large masses, it seems. The directions suggest applying thin coats; this seems to work best. I've applied it in successive layerings, where I've used it successfully.
The reason for my post was that I've done something different, following the concept of basic concrete work or plastering; relying on a steel mesh for tensile strength and form, with a thin layer of cement forced into, and covering, the mesh.
My results, so far, are that furnace cement applied firmly onto the stainless steel armature has held up well, over the last month, after several fires, with no cracking or distortion.
That was the reason for my post; I experimented with using the SS wire as a "lath" and the cement as a "plaster" and it has worked very well, so far.
I'll be sure to post, either way, a couple of months into the real heating season; so far, so good.
The recently expanded size of the baffles and redesign of the deflector are clear enough evidence for me that Regency finally understands that there was a problem directing fire at the unprotected top/front area.
As I mentioned in my initial post, I also used my stainless mesh/fire cement approach to mend cracked baffles; this has also held up well; the mesh serves as structural strength to the joint, when "bedded" in furnace cement. The mended baffles are going strong. At $75 + for a set of baffles, mending was a better option for me.
The work I've done at the top/front is easily reversible, should I ever choose to do so; the basic stove is not modified. I've just covered the vulnerable area.
The cracking/distortion is well within the door's area, my gaskets are fresh and their perimeters are sealed with hi-temp caulking. There is no flatness distortion out at the door seal and no burn through or cracking at the top of the stove's firebox.
Frankly, it is working better than ever, happily!
Honestly I think the majority of your problems come from s very poor dealer who didn't address the issues from the start
No. Dealer said they don't retrofit and will only do something if cracking occurs, as you mentioned.
Well if they ignore the damaged deflector it will eventually crack. If it was me I would go over their heads directly to recency.
Contacted Regency via web form. Have a ticket number now. Took more pics. Dealer submitted claim. Not that it won't be the same result, but at least there's a correspondence trail. Dealer helpful.
It's great to hear you're making progress. Will you be updating to the new stainless deflector when this work is done?
I'm going to hop in here. I have an i3100 from 2005. The deflector is warped and there is a 2 inch crack on the top right face. Is this something that Regency will replace via warranty? I have yet to contact the dealer as I just came across this thread. The stove is in really good shape except the deflector and crack.
Do you know if this is dependent on me being the original purchaser with proof of purchase (which I am not)? Is it ok to use the stove as is if Regency doesnt replace?
In that case i beleive you are out of luck sorry. And there is no way i could possibly say it is safe or not without seeing it but a 2" crack doesnt sound good.
Sorry about the double post, my mistake. I found this thread when I searched for the Regency part 063-955.
Reading all posts here I guess I must be a lucky guy because I bought my Regency I3100 S/N: 38953 back in Nov-2000 and have been using it every season burning about 6 face cords of hardwood with no problems at all. I keep the damper always to about the midpoint and very seldom I use it to the fully extended position perhaps for 10-20 minutes (to get new logs get going).
My small problem (and that’s why I’m here) started last month when the chimney guys came for the annual cleaning which I do every 2-3 years. I must confess that although I’m a man who fixes everything in my house I never bothered to learn anything in my fireplace, somehow I felt it was a simple firebox and no need to spend the time to do anything except to remove the ashes as needed. In addition since my house is a 2 story house with a high pitched roof which I’m afraid to climb I decided to let someone else to do this job.
About 2 weeks after the chimney cleaning and while the fireplace was going for about 4 hours I hear a metallic noise inside the firebox. When I opened the door I saw a pipe had fallen down right behind the door but it was hanging from the left side wall. I felt something was wrong and decided to stop the fire and using a shovel emptied the burning firewood to my concrete patio which is right next to the fireplace.
Next day and after searching some YouTube videos I grabbed the pipe with my vice-grip and hammered in to the right wall notch. At the same time I noticed the 2 firebrick above these pipes were kind of burned on the ends and I was upset that the chimney cleaning guys never said anything about it. The fallen pipe looks solid (not burned) and the ends are not burned either but I wonder why it fell down again,
So now since I don’t trust the chimney cleaning guys anymore I must educate myself on how the fireplace works and here are my questions.
1. There are 4 similar tubes at the top of my firebox and all have similar small holes on them. What is the purpose of these holes?
2. Why this pipe fell again after I hammer it? I know there is a notch on the pipes end and a prong in the firebox wall and I hammer it well but perhaps I didn’t hammered enough?
3. What is the purpose of the 2 firebrick above these pipes? To prevent the flames touching the metal box or they serve some other reason?
4. The dealer told me that the new part (063-955) is not firebricks but some kind of a baffle. Would the new part fit my 18 years old firebox? The dealer has no idea.
5. Some members on this thread have mentioned about cracks in the firebox. How can I inspect my firebox about cracks? Kind of difficult to find cracks in the firebox if you don’t know how/where to look for.
Thank you
Reading all posts here I guess I must be a lucky guy because I bought my Regency I3100 S/N: 38953 back in Nov-2000 and have been using it every season burning about 6 face cords of hardwood with no problems at all. I keep the damper always to about the midpoint and very seldom I use it to the fully extended position perhaps for 10-20 minutes (to get new logs get going).
My small problem (and that’s why I’m here) started last month when the chimney guys came for the annual cleaning which I do every 2-3 years. I must confess that although I’m a man who fixes everything in my house I never bothered to learn anything in my fireplace, somehow I felt it was a simple firebox and no need to spend the time to do anything except to remove the ashes as needed. In addition since my house is a 2 story house with a high pitched roof which I’m afraid to climb I decided to let someone else to do this job.
About 2 weeks after the chimney cleaning and while the fireplace was going for about 4 hours I hear a metallic noise inside the firebox. When I opened the door I saw a pipe had fallen down right behind the door but it was hanging from the left side wall. I felt something was wrong and decided to stop the fire and using a shovel emptied the burning firewood to my concrete patio which is right next to the fireplace.
Next day and after searching some YouTube videos I grabbed the pipe with my vice-grip and hammered in to the right wall notch. At the same time I noticed the 2 firebrick above these pipes were kind of burned on the ends and I was upset that the chimney cleaning guys never said anything about it. The fallen pipe looks solid (not burned) and the ends are not burned either but I wonder why it fell down again,
So now since I don’t trust the chimney cleaning guys anymore I must educate myself on how the fireplace works and here are my questions.
1. There are 4 similar tubes at the top of my firebox and all have similar small holes on them. What is the purpose of these holes?
2. Why this pipe fell again after I hammer it? I know there is a notch on the pipes end and a prong in the firebox wall and I hammer it well but perhaps I didn’t hammered enough?
3. What is the purpose of the 2 firebrick above these pipes? To prevent the flames touching the metal box or they serve some other reason?
4. The dealer told me that the new part (063-955) is not firebricks but some kind of a baffle. Would the new part fit my 18 years old firebox? The dealer has no idea.
5. Some members on this thread have mentioned about cracks in the firebox. How can I inspect my firebox about cracks? Kind of difficult to find cracks in the firebox if you don’t know how/where to look for.
Thank you
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![[Hearth.com] Regency i3100 Insert Baffle](/talk/data/attachments/234/234395-5a8da54c7393abc1fe6ebf22a03f1e5d.jpg?hash=XwLRPmBrJD)
![[Hearth.com] Regency i3100 Insert Baffle](/talk/data/attachments/234/234396-44a769d6e55819090fb22d5b70fa47bf.jpg?hash=O76AxmNUyu)
![[Hearth.com] Regency i3100 Insert Baffle](/talk/data/attachments/234/234397-d6f4268a7cf1761ade1e3376d490937d.jpg?hash=LJGBb5sj27)
![[Hearth.com] Regency i3100 Insert Baffle](/talk/data/attachments/234/234398-4bac2c53398f9706bf3b84abb8d7aada.jpg?hash=3gdek2lw6h)
I would try to get the manual, maybe off the Regency website. It'll have a lot of good info in it.
Those baffles do look beat to me, so I think replacing would be good.
I believe removal of a tube is not necessary to remove the baffles (see manual). It takes a little 'finagling' on my Hampton HI300, but doable. Perhaps a sweep removed a tube in the past and that is why it was loose.
The baffle slows the flames down and redirects them so less heat goes up the chimney. It is necessary.
I clean my chimney myself but I do it from the bottom, so that's a possibility. I can see not getting involved in certain things while doing a bunch of other stuff. That's getting less as time goes on, lol.
I did a little search on line and came up with this:
Regency Stove Baffle Set - Part# 063-955
Sold as a 2 piece set
Measurements: 12-7/8" x 11-1/4" x 1" per piece.
So, you can maybe check if it'll fit. Why not buy it online? (I realize that Regency prefers to go through dealers though.) Or, at least talk to them to see if it's the right part.
Good luck.
Those baffles do look beat to me, so I think replacing would be good.
I believe removal of a tube is not necessary to remove the baffles (see manual). It takes a little 'finagling' on my Hampton HI300, but doable. Perhaps a sweep removed a tube in the past and that is why it was loose.
The baffle slows the flames down and redirects them so less heat goes up the chimney. It is necessary.
I clean my chimney myself but I do it from the bottom, so that's a possibility. I can see not getting involved in certain things while doing a bunch of other stuff. That's getting less as time goes on, lol.
I did a little search on line and came up with this:
Regency Stove Baffle Set - Part# 063-955
Sold as a 2 piece set
Measurements: 12-7/8" x 11-1/4" x 1" per piece.
So, you can maybe check if it'll fit. Why not buy it online? (I realize that Regency prefers to go through dealers though.) Or, at least talk to them to see if it's the right part.
Good luck.
The baffle keeps the temperatures up in the firebox to allow for secondary combustion and extends the smoke path so more heat can be extracted. The tubes introduce fresh preheated air under that baffle which burns off combustible material left in the smoke. This gives you more heat and a cleaner burn.
The tube fell out because over time that notch spreads open a bit. When the sweep removed it it spread it a tiny bit more so it no longer holds the tube in place. Take a pair of plyers and squeeze it closed slightly and it will stay in place.
And yes you need new baffles.
Thanks for the reply velvetfoot. I do have the original manual and downloaded the latest from Regency site and I will read it again since it has good info but not enough for me.
I can remove the baffles only after I remove the first pipe which is not a big deal but first I must get the baffles which it takes 4 weeks delivery since they come from Vancouver. Most likely I will place the order after the holidays to avoid the mail rush. The Canadian post office workers just finish their strike and there is a huge mail backlog which may lead to my package been lost.
The measurements you indicate are correct. Buying them on line? Hhmm never thought about it but I will give it a try
How do you clean the chimney from the bottom?
Is it safe to operate the fireplace now with the baffles I have? (Until I get the new ones)
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bholler thank you too, good to know what the baffles are for and I will do the trick you mentioned to keep the pipe in place
I can remove the baffles only after I remove the first pipe which is not a big deal but first I must get the baffles which it takes 4 weeks delivery since they come from Vancouver. Most likely I will place the order after the holidays to avoid the mail rush. The Canadian post office workers just finish their strike and there is a huge mail backlog which may lead to my package been lost.
The measurements you indicate are correct. Buying them on line? Hhmm never thought about it but I will give it a try
How do you clean the chimney from the bottom?
Is it safe to operate the fireplace now with the baffles I have? (Until I get the new ones)
--------------------------------------------
bholler thank you too, good to know what the baffles are for and I will do the trick you mentioned to keep the pipe in place
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