Regency F2400 air control

[Louisbasle]

I burn dry wood, don't know percentage. Wood is ash, maple, elm, cherry.
Will load stove on hot coals, with air control all the way down, within a half hour the wood will be engulfed in flames and stt will start to rise. With air control stt will get 500 to 600 degrees. The stove pipe damper does not make any difference. The only way I can control the stove is to only put no more than three pieces if wood in the stove.

Tell us a bit about how you run the stove, starting with the wood being burned. When do you start turning down the air and how far?

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[Louisbasle]

I made a typo. Stove is a f2400 not 3100

 

[begreen]

I made a typo. Stove is a f2400 not 3100

Mod corrected title

 

[corona5k1635]

I feel like I just hit a gold mine finding this thread. Was any resolution discovered? I just got the Regency 2450 installed last week and I have the EXACT same problem and conditions. Burning well seasoned ash and cherry that is over two years old and dry, 15 foot chimney, straight up with no elbows, exterior-wall fireplace, masonry. 6 1/2 inch insulated chimney liner put in with the install last week. I’m trying to research if I can check how well the air-control rod is sealing the unit. When I push it all the way in to close off the air, I do see a dramatic difference in the motion of the flames so I know it is certainly closing off the air. It’s just a matter of is it closing off all of it or not. Did the paper test on the door all the way around and I’ve tightened the door as much as possible by removing washers from the latch mechanism as instructed in the manual, so I don’t think the problem is with the door. Also, there is no evidence during a burning of air leakage through with the gasket because there’s no fog up or condensation or something like that on a section of the glass. So I’m trying to find where the other leaks could be. Can anyone from this thread chime in on what happened here with LouisBasle?