Recommend me a used Stihl saw

[Firewood Bandit]

What Stihl saw doesn't feel good in your hands?

MS290's are just great if you really like something that is really big, heavy, and underpowered with an inferior anti vibe system.

Sorry I really dislike that model and it is the biggest selling model in the Stihl lineup. I am not saying it won't run, cut wood and is a good value, it just isn't even close to a good handling saw.

I have 3 friends that have them and they always have dull chains and do no maintenance on the saws so when it is wood cutting time it is a perfect storm of failure.

 

[D8Chumley]

Mine did what i needed it to do but the 391 does it a lot better

 

[Firewood Bandit]

Mine did what i needed it to do but the 391 does it a lot better

Hi D8Chumley,

Today I was at the picking up a scraper blade for my tractor snowblower at the local John Deere dealership. I looked at MS391's and they were only $50 more than the MS291's. I stand by what I said on my previous post regarding 290's.

 

[D8Chumley]

Thats fine, but the OP is looking for a decent priced saw that he can use to cut 4-5 cords a year. Will a 290 do that? Yes, it will. Are there better saws? Absolutely. I'm not sure I follow what you mean with the 391 comment. In my area a 391 is $100 more with both having 16" bars

 

[Firewood Bandit]

Thats fine, but the OP is looking for a decent priced saw that he can use to cut 4-5 cords a year. Will a 290 do that? Yes, it will. Are there better saws? Absolutely. I'm not sure I follow what you mean with the 391 comment. In my area a 391 is $100 more with both having 16" bars

My impression is the OP wanted to buy a good saw and not spend a lot of money. Previously I stated he should look for a Pro line saw that has been refurbished by a competent saw mechanic. I still think that is good advice.

Many have told him to buy a used saw off Craigslist. Well if a saw is for sale on CL it is for a reason. Unless the OP is a competent saw mechanic in all reality he will be buying someone else's problems and have spent good money on something that will need a competent saw mechanic. So why not skip the middleman and go directly to a competent saw mechanic who refurbishes pro line saws. BTW, the plastic clam shell designs of 290's are a bear to work on. Pro line saws are designed to be rebuilt easily and justify the expense rather than clam shell designs that are throwaways.


My comment on the 391 was just what I observed when I was in the dealership yesterday getting a part for my SCUT.

 

[WiscWoody]

Buy a used 290 with an 18. Approx $300.

I ran a 290 with a 18 bar for six years and then regrettably sold it on eBay for what I paid for it and the buyer paid to ship it on top of that! There's a logger not far from me in the U.P. That rejugs Husqvarna returns after someone thinks the bar oil tank is for two stroke oil.... I bought my next saw from him. He has many but like I said I'm not far from him so no shipping. He will ship though if you want his info. I posted a image of my MS290 listing. They have good resale value if they are clean.

 

[WiscWoody]

MS290's are just great if you really like something that is really big, heavy, and underpowered with an inferior anti vibe system.

Sorry I really dislike that model and it is the biggest selling model in the Stihl lineup. I am not saying it won't run, cut wood and is a good value, it just isn't even close to a good handling saw.

I have 3 friends that have them and they always have dull chains and do no maintenance on the saws so when it is wood cutting time it is a perfect storm of failure.

I liked mine and I kept the chain sharp! My neighbor drives me nuts sometimes cutting Poplar forever on one buck with a dull chain! He moves it back and forth and all around trying to get it to cut. DS!

 

[Ashful]

Ms036 or 36x. Most quote this as the ultimate firewood saw.

I personally disagree, and think my 064 is the ultimate firewood saw, but I tend to bring home larger than average stuff.

I could easily be convinced that 044 is the way to go, but they're hard to find around here, and also larger than the OP implied needing.

 

[WiscWoody]

Ms036 or 36x. Most quote this as the ultimate firewood saw.

I personally disagree, and think my 064 is the ultimate firewood saw, but I tend to bring home larger than average stuff.

I could easily be convinced that 044 is the way to go, but they're hard to find around here, and also larger than the OP implied needing.

Your 064 is a big pro saw and I'm sure it cuts like your at a lumber jack competition. But the OP is looking for a good $300 rig. Like I said before, I sold my MS290 and then I bought a big saw too, a 390XP with a 28" solid Chrome Molly bar. Talk about over kill! But the longer bar is nice for not having to bend over so much. And if I were a young buck it'd be fine. I want a 372 now but I'll keep it I guess. It's cool, for 10 minutes anyways! Lol

 

[D8Chumley]

My impression is the OP wanted to buy a good saw and not spend a lot of money. Previously I stated he should look for a Pro line saw that has been refurbished by a competent saw mechanic. I still think that is good advice.

Many have told him to buy a used saw off Craigslist. Well if a saw is for sale on CL it is for a reason. Unless the OP is a competent saw mechanic in all reality he will be buying someone else's problems and have spent good money on something that will need a competent saw mechanic. So why not skip the middleman and go directly to a competent saw mechanic who refurbishes pro line saws. BTW, the plastic clam shell designs of 290's are a bear to work on. Pro line saws are designed to be rebuilt easily and justify the expense rather than clam shell designs that are throwaways.


My comment on the 391 was just what I observed when I was in the dealership yesterday getting a part for my SCUT.

I agree if one needs/ can afford a Pro saw that is the way to go. Even a professionally rebuilt one. Heres my thought process:
MS391 with 20" bar, 64cc 4.4 hp 14.1 lbs 3/8 RS3 chain. Price: $579.95.
MS362 Pro saw 20" bar 59cc 4.6hp 13lbs 3/8 RS3 chain. Price $749.95
I didn't feel the need to spend an extra $170 for that difference and I am hoping that the 391 will easily last me 10+ years with the way I use and maintain it. The only observation you have made about the 391 is that it was $50 more than a 291. I'm still not sure where you stand on that. Not that it matters as I'm perfectly comfortable with my choice
EDIT: The only difference is Stihl recommends up to a 25" bar for the 362. I can, and have read that it handles it just fine, run a 25" bar on my 391 if I feel the need to

 

[Firewood Bandit]

Here is a non Stihl that would fit the OP needs, it is new and if you buy some Husky tru fuel you will get a 4 year warranty. This is the slightly detuned version of the 550XP. I've got a 550 with heated handles and the anti vibe on these are second to none. This has pro saw features, is not a plastic clamshell case.

New @ $429 shipped to your door.

(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Husqvarna-545-Chainsaw-with-18-Bar-FREE-SHIPPING-Display-Model-NEW-/181268903954?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a3477f812)

 

[Firewood Bandit]

I agree if one needs/ can afford a Pro saw that is the way to go. Even a professionally rebuilt one. Heres my thought process:
MS391 with 20" bar, 64cc 4.4 hp 14.1 lbs 3/8 RS3 chain. Price: $579.95.
MS362 Pro saw 20" bar 59cc 4.6hp 13lbs 3/8 RS3 chain. Price $749.95
I didn't feel the need to spend an extra $170 for that difference and I am hoping that the 391 will easily last me 10+ years with the way I use and maintain it. The only observation you have made about the 391 is that it was $50 more than a 291. I'm still not sure where you stand on that. Not that it matters as I'm perfectly comfortable with my choice
EDIT: The only difference is Stihl recommends up to a 25" bar for the 362. I can, and have read that it handles it just fine, run a 25" bar on my 391 if I feel the need to

At the Stihl dealer They wanted $539 for the MS391 and and $489 MS 291 yesterday.

 

[D8Chumley]

OK, the prices I quoted were directly from my local dealers website here.

 

[Firewood Bandit]

I liked mine and I kept the chain sharp! My neighbor drives me nuts sometimes cutting Poplar forever on one buck with a dull chain! He moves it back and forth and all around trying to get it to cut. DS!

Doesn't that just kill you ?

 

[WiscWoody]

Firewood Bandit- I would buy on CL but you better beware and do your research! Deals can be had on the site but scammers are on there to take your money no doubt! If you do use the sight look at the page they have on how to protect yourself. And don't get all gung-ho about one listing! Look around and talk to local dealers. If a deals slips through cuz you were cautious another will come around soon. Just my $.02

 

[WiscWoody]

Doesn't that just kill you ?

Yes it does. You gotta learn to sharpen if your going to cut. I once took a new chain over to him since he was using one of the two saws I gave to him hoping he'd swap It. Nope! We don't talk much any more.. It's complicated. Lake lots are just too narrow and fall outs happens.

 

[Firewood Bandit]

Firewood Bandit- I would buy on CL but you better beware and do your research! Deals can be had on the site but scammers are on there to take your money no doubt! If you do use the sight look at the page they have on how to protect yourself. And don't get all gung-ho about one listing! Look around and talk to local dealers. If a deals slips through cuz you were cautious another will come around soon. Just my $.02

I agree.

I have bought saws on CL, but the Stihls I see for sale are often going for aprox 75% of the cost of a new one. Now why would anyone buy a ragged out used one for that kind of money with no idea of it's actual internal condition?

Again, I suggested the OP buy a refurbished pro line saw from a competent saw mechanic to minimize risk.

 

[Firewood Bandit]

Yes it does. You gotta learn to sharpen if your going to cut. I once took a new chain over to him since he was using one of the two saws I gave to him hoping he'd swap It. Nope! We don't talk much any more.. It's complicated. Lake lots are just too narrow and fall outs happens.

You should have take HIS chain and sharpened it for him and gave it back.

 

[WiscWoody]

I agree.

I have bought saws on CL, but the Stihls I see for sale are often going for aprox 75% of the cost of a new one. Now why would anyone buy a ragged out used one for that kind of money with no idea of it's actual internal condition?

Again, I suggested the OP buy a refurbished pro line saw from a competent saw mechanic to minimize risk.

I know it! Look at the MS290 that I sold on eBay, he could have bought a new 290 with the warranty for what he paid.
Pro name saws fetch a ransom but WTH? Research, research!

 

[MofoG23]

Ms036 or 36x. Most quote this as the ultimate firewood saw.

I personally disagree, and think my 064 is the ultimate firewood saw, but I tend to bring home larger than average stuff.

I could easily be convinced that 044 is the way to go, but they're hard to find around here, and also larger than the OP implied needing.

I understand what you are saying, but keep in mind those who claim the 36x as being the ultimate firewood saw are more than likely using it as their only saw - 1 saw plan. 60cc is the sweet spot for 1 saw plan's IMO.

I'd much rather use a 36x for smaller stuff and limbing...and when I have to pull out the 25" bar for some large oaks (36" +), it gets it done - its not winning any races, but does not complain when asked. Most of the time I'm processing stuff that is 12" - 30" though...I'd have a damn hard time justifying an 85cc saw unless I was consistently in the big stuff 36"+.

Now if you have CAD or another smaller saw (180 or 260) laying around, then a nice big bore pro saw would be great to have on hand. In this case however, the budget for the OP rules them out...

 

[Jon1270]

I had a better experience with my neighbor. He's not a regular woodburner but he inherited a nice saw from his grandfather -- an MS360 or something similar. This summer he was trying to cut a couple of old rounds shorter for use as end tables, grinding away with a very dull chain. I loaned him my little Husky 350 with a sharp chain. He was appreciative, and was kind enough not to run it into the sidewalk.

Now why would anyone buy a ragged out used one for that kind of money with no idea of it's actual internal condition?

I don't think anyone does. The thing with Craigslist is that the good deals disappear in minutes or hours, and the ads get taken down because the seller doesn't want to keep getting emails or fielding phone calls for something he doesn't have anymore. That leaves all the bad deals, the ads for which stay up indefinitely. You can't peruse Craigslist's month+ worth of visible listings and take what you see as an indicator of actual market prices.

 

[WiscWoody]

This is probably in this forum I'm sure but what would a person look for in a used saw that will last them ten years or more? I'm no pro but I'd look for a saw that doesn't look like it's rolled around in someone truck until the threw it in the shed, aka a loggers saw but not thrown around but used up in a years time. Or either or....

Look for a scored cylinder by taking off the muffler. Look online for what to look for.
Start it cold. Give it full choke and pull it, usually it will fire some from one or two pulls and don't forget the unloader if it has it. After it fires full choke go to partial choke and it should start just like most two strokes do.
Ask why they are selling it like Rick on Pawn stars. Look him in the eyes!
The chain might be past it's prime but a newer one is a bonus.
And try to have something to cut when your looking at it. If the chain is sharp like it should be when someone sells a saw, it should cut well for its size.
Ask what kind of two stroke oil they used in it and what mix. Newer saw are 50:1. Older saws are 32:1 or even 16:1 but I'm not sure when the change was made. There again you can find that out. If he says he used whatever was around for the weed whip it's a red flag.
If compression is low it will the engine will pull easy and turn over a few times after a cold pull.



This off the top of my head and I'd like to hear more. Sorry if I'm HJing the op's thread and he probably know more than I do?

 

[Ashful]

Your 064 is a big pro saw and I'm sure it cuts like your at a lumber jack competition. But the OP is looking for a good $300 rig...

...I'd have a damn hard time justifying an 85cc saw unless I was consistently in the big stuff 36"+.

I think my statement was misread... probably my fault. I was recommending the 036 / 36x as a good saw for most wood burners.

I do regularly bring home oak and ash over 30" (actually, often over 40"... occasionally over 50"), which is why I favor the 064. But again... that's not most wood burners.

 

[WiscWoody]

If the shoe fits, wear it as they say. I'm just glad I don't have to hoist 40-50" rounds into the truck! If you have help, that's a good thing For those whoppers! Lol

 

[Ashful]

If the shoe fits, wear it as they say. I'm just glad I don't have to hoist 40-50" rounds into the truck! If you have help, that's a good thing For those whoppers! Lol

There's no hoisting when you get to 40", just rolling! Oak is roughly 62 lb/cu.ft. green, so a 40" round x 20" long (my cut length) weighs 900 lb, and a 50" round weighs 1400 lb. I can lift oak rounds up to roughly 44" diameter with my tractor, before the hydraulics stall out.