Recomendations needed

[begreen]

Not the most helpful dealer so far. What is that stuff on the side of the stove pipe? Creosote?

The Oslo needs a decent draft to get going. Can you describe the entire flue system including tee, elbows and lengths of stove pipe and chimney? What was the outdoor temperature when you tried running the stove? Which floor of the house is the stove located on?

As for the wood, you could try some 2x4 scraps split in half as a test fuel to see if that burns better. When testing the wood, was the wood split in half, then tested on the freshly exposed face of the wood?

 

[fire1776]

Not the most helpful dealer so far. What is that stuff on the side of the stove pipe? Creosote?

The Oslo needs a decent draft to get going. Can you describe the entire flue system including tee, elbows and lengths of stove pipe and chimney? What was the outdoor temperature when you tried running the stove?

The stove pipe is straight up 23ft double wall pipe inside the house to 5ft of pipe on the roof. Last night it was in the low 40's, right now it's 51 and the stove is doing the same thing. Should be in the 30's tonight. And the junk on the pipe is liquid creosote, fairly good puddle under the stove now.

 

[begreen]

The chimney sounds ideal. Sure does sound like the wood. When testing the wood, was the wood split in half, then tested on the freshly exposed face of the wood? Wood needs to be tested at the core not end grain or outer surface.

You could try some 2x4 scraps split in half as a test fuel to see if that burns better.

 

[Isaiah53]

I would suspect a draft issue or some type of restriction or blockage in your chimney. Sounds like the stove cannot exhaust through the chimney. I am sure you will be asked about your chimney specifics such as height, type of chimney and flue arrangement. If the outside temps are relatively mild, that may be contributing to the problem as well.

 

[begreen]

This needs to be tested one step at a time. If the same issue occurs with dry construction scraps then the next thing I would check is to verify that the air control is working properly. Do you note any difference between air wide open and air closed with the air control? Is the air control to the far right for fire starting? When moved back and forth is it sloppy loose or do you feel a bit of resistance and here a faint sliding noise, or is it very stiff?

 

[fire1776]

I would suspect a draft issue or some type of restriction or blockage in your chimney. Sounds like the stove cannot exhaust through the chimney. I am sure you will be asked about your chimney specifics such as height, type of chimney and flue arrangement. If the outside temps are relatively mild, that may be contributing to the problem as well.

So the part that confuses me is why all the smoke is coming out of the pipe there. Should that not be airtight? It just seems to want to get going but just not able to. I threw some 2X8's that were in the basement (4 & 8% moisture respectively) and opened up the stove damper. Started burning like a champ, hit 250 on the stove temp and went to just embers and the house filled up with smoke from the pipe. Granted it's 53 outside but really, this is frustrating. The moisture readings are taken immediately after I split the wood in the center.

 

[begreen]

It's possible that the house is tight and/or there is negative pressure in the stove location. That will reverse draft. You could test this by opening a nearby window an inch to see if that helps improve the fire and draft. Also turn off any exhaust fans (kitchen, bath, whole house, attic) while testing.

While testing try leaving the door slightly ajar, maybe 1/2" and let the fire burn strong. That should help get the flue pipe hot.

Last, I am wondering if there is a poor fit of the stove pipe to the flue collar. Excess air being intaked there will dilute draft. What brand pipe is this?

 

[fire1776]

It's possible that the house is tight and/or there is negative pressure in the stove location. That will reverse draft. You could test this by opening a nearby window an inch to see if that helps improve the fire and draft. Also turn off any exhaust fans (kitchen, bath, whole house, attic) while testing.

Yes we've definitely tried the window/French doors open as we are continually airing out the house. On a positive note the fire alarms and alarm monitoring company are working as advertised. Is he smoke coming from the pipe where it connects to the stove not unusual? Should that not be air tight?

 

[begreen]

The flue connection should be reasonably tight. If there is a sloppy connection there room air will dilute the draft. On some stoves the double-wall pipe fits in directly and on others a flue adapter is needed for a better fit. Maybe start a conversation with @stovelark and ask about your stove pipe brand on the Oslo flue collar to see what the best fit is there for your brand pipe.

 

[jatoxico]

When we move the damper more than halfway open smoke starts to pour into the house where the stove connects to the pipe.

No matter what the quality of the wood smoke should not enter the house. Something sounds wrong.

 

[fire1776]

The chimney sounds ideal. Sure does sound like the wood. When testing the wood, was the wood split in half, then tested on the freshly exposed face of the wood? Wood needs to be tested at the core not end grain or outer surface.

You could try some 2x4 scraps split in half as a test fuel to see if that burns better.

Just tried a load of 2X8's, no difference. Airing out the house again. I'll be calling ACME in the morning.

 

[begreen]

Good plan. If it's not the wood or the flue system, then the stove connection leaking or installer error is a possibility. Tell them to send out their best crew.

 

[BKVP]

A manufacturers perspective.

1) once had a guy that the stove arrived after the chimney and while waiting, a sweatshirt was used to block cold air.

2) once had an installer take the wrappers off the venting and stuff them into a section of pipe, that section wound up on an install, plugged.

3) if the cap has a spark resistor screen, they can plug very quickly when they are 20'+ feet from the appliance.

4) once, another piece of pack material was actually in the stove and part of the shipment, left inside during install and caused all sorts of issues.

5) fresh air inlet has styrofoam placed there by someone thinking it would "not need fresh air".

Lastly, if the venting is installed correctly and ceiling support connections, roof components are all done correctly, wet creosote should not run down the OUTSIDE of the pipe.

Just my .02 worth sitting on this side of some calls.

Chris

 

[begreen]

Yes, I am wondering if this is installer error. Someone needs to pull the cap and look down the pipe with a flashlight. The creosote drippings on the pipe are terrible.

Fire1776, it's easy to check if the air intake is blocked. You'll find a round hole in the bottom back center that is the air intake.