Recoheat

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If the goal is to create a lot of creosote and have a chimney fire and burn your house down then yes, it will work for you!
That's ridiculous !
 
Keep an eye on those flue temps
That's a given.The videos of the users have me sold.They report no tar issues which is great.I also like the part that they use less wood due to this thing generates usable heat from the coals at the end of the burn.So no need to refuel as often since coals last quite a while.One other feature is this product produces heat from the firebox long before the stove is emitting heat from it's surface.Now if I can keep the pump going in a power outage I'll be golden.
 
That's a given.The videos of the users have me sold.They report no tar issues which is great.I also like the part that they use less wood due to this thing generates usable heat from the coals at the end of the burn.So no need to refuel as often since coals last quite a while.One other feature is this product produces heat from the firebox long before the stove is emitting heat from it's surface.Now if I can keep the pump going in a power outage I'll be golden.
Again just run the stove properly. You won't have much of any heat in the stack to spare.
 
That's ridiculous !
No. Products like this have been around for decades. Every so often someone comes up with a new one that supposedly fixes all the previous issues. None do they all create creosote problems
 
I'm aware of the previous attempts however the videos of those who use the recoheat report not having a creosote problem.If that is indeed true that is a game changer.However I'll be purchasing this unit.God willing I'll give an update come next burning season.
 
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I'm aware of the previous attempts however the videos of those who use the recoheat report not having a creosote problem.If that is indeed true that is a game changer.However I'll be purchasing this unit.God willing I'll give an update come next burning season.
Well do you think the company is going to put out customer testimonials saying this pos caused my chimney to clog in a month??

The simple fact is if your extracting heat from the exhaust you are putting yourself at a much greater risk of having creosote issues. No way around that at all.
 
I'm aware of the previous attempts however the videos of those who use the recoheat report not having a creosote problem.If that is indeed true that is a game changer.However I'll be purchasing this unit.God willing I'll give an update come next burning season.
It's a stack robber so it's just a question of how much temperature headroom there is before the flue gases drop below 250º. If it is on a stove that already sends a lot of heat up the flue and the flue height is not exceptionally tall, then it may work. If it is on a stove that is efficient and and has a 2 story exterior chimney, then I would not do this. If not burning fully seasoned wood, all bets are off.

Examples:
Stove A has a one story, 15' flue straight up from the stove. It runs with an average internal flue temp of 750º taken 18" above the stove and has an exit temp at the chimney top of 500º. Adding the stack robber removes say 200º for an exit temp of 300º. This may work all right without a dramatic increase in creosote except perhaps on the chimney cap.
Stove B has a 2 story, exterior chimney system that is 25' tall. It runs with an average internal flue temp of 550º taken 18" above the stove and has an exit temp at the chimney top of 300º. Adding the stack robber removes say 150º for an exit temp of 150º. That is a creosote problem for certain.
 
Well do you think the company is going to put out customer testimonials saying this pos caused my chimney to clog in a month??

The simple fact is if your extracting heat from the exhaust you are putting yourself at a much greater risk of having creosote issues. No way around that at all.
Recoheat gave you facts and your still in the dark.Just sit still and I'll get back to you.
 
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Recoheat gave you facts and your still in the dark.Just sit still and I'll get back to you.
Yes and the "facts" given simply don't align with the laws of physics. Yes it would be fine to use in a situation where someone is wasting tons of heat out the chimney. But with modern stoves run properly that simply is not the case.
 
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Wanna buy a bridge? I got a good deal on one for you!
If you were silly enough to make that deal for yourself why would I want to do business with you !
 
Yes and the "facts" given simply don't align with the laws of physics. Yes it would be fine to use in a situation where someone is wasting tons of heat out the chimney. But with modern stoves run properly that simply is not the case.
Using your Laws of Physics show where Recoheat's explanation defies the Laws of Physics.Just admit it you don't have a clue about what he was talking about.
 
Using your Laws of Physics show where Recoheat's explanation defies the Laws of Physics.Just admit it you don't have a clue about what he was talking about.
He kept saying their device didn't reduce exhaust temps. They couldn't give an honest answer to a simple question
 
Physics roadblock:


Its not magic. Its transferring the heat from somewhere.

Look, we're not going to convince you. You've made up your mind or are trolling. Just do it.
 
There is one case where temperature doesnt change during heat recovery and that is during the latent heat recovery stage where condensable vapors in the exhaust convert to liquid, there is actually quite a bit of energy in those vapors. WIth natural gas or propane the vapors in the flue gas are 99.9% water with some minimal components that could be acidic so the exhaust flue is either stainless or PVC. Some folks have these in their homes and are called Mod Con boilers. Usually along with latent heat there is also sensible heat extracted and there is a temperature change in the flue gas but it doesnt really have to be there is just bit more energy recovered.

Sounds great and does not violate any physics but there is big flaw in applying it to home wooodburning, unlike steady state combustion with homogenous fuel that fully combusts into clean byproducts, a wood stove is burning a non homogeneous fuel composed of all sorts of compounds that may burn incompletely into intermediate byproducts that include various condensables that are going to condense out inside a stack. Once they condense, they run down the stack until they burn or form byproducts that vaporize at a higher temperature. There is also pyroligneous acid formed that also runs down the stack until it revaporizes. The low temperature volatiles keep burning off leaving heavier deposits that eventually form a glaze inside the stack. Now add in a hot stove stove event where the exhaust gases get a lot hotter and this glaze starts to vaporize back into a combustible form and it chimney fire time.

Condensing heat exchangers have been used in Europe on district energy plants, usually downstream of emission control devices and designed to be cleaned or frequent basis. These plants also use forced or induced drafts fans so stack draft is not obtained by natural convection. In a home woodburners case, the cost and complexity is not worth it, so the far easier approach is run the stack gases hot above condensation temperature until the gases make it out the stack.

Ultimately any of the "free heat" concepts are just living off the margin that any wood stove has designed into it. WIth the old smoke dragons with straight through or mildly baffled output, that margin is huge but modern EPA stoves have to cut the margin close. Ultimately if the house burns down due to a heat reclaimer anyone looking for check from a heat reclaimer company is going to be out of luck.
 
That sums it up. All that can be said, has been said. Sticking a fork in this thread.
 
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