rangeley t50 issues?

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There is only one 90 degree elbow....unless i'm missing something. Regardless it looks like i am going to have to do something "drastic". Here is a burn with very dry pine.

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There may be only ONE 90 degree elbow, but there are TWO 90 degree turns.
That will effectively cut your chimney height by 6 feet (or more).
 
The flue does not seem to have a steel liner and you would benefit greatly from an insulated 6" liner. What are the inner dimensions of the clay flue?

The part that runs through the wall is a double wall insulated pipe and It looks to be 8 or 9 inch for the clay flue, if that's what your asking for. Again i am newish to all this.....as if you couldn't tell.... ;sick
 
I am going to get someone in here to see if we can go up and out to the existing chimney. Unless anyone has any other ideas to solve the draft problem.
 
The part that runs through the wall is a double wall insulated pipe and It looks to be 8 or 9 inch for the clay flue, if that's what your asking for. Again i am newish to all this.....as if you couldn't tell.... ;sick

You are right, without a liner there is only one 90 elbow in there but the exhaust gases still needs to go from the horizontal pipe into the vertical chimney. That's another 90 degree turn impeding your draft. If your flue is 8" wide you can drop an insulated 6" liner down there. That should help a lot. With burning dry wood and the liner, your draft may then be ok but no guarantee, of course.
 
I am currently mulling over the various possibilities and wanted to say thank you all very much for your help. As always any input is welcome.
 
What if i had a professional "move" the hole in the the chimney up a little so that i could have more of a sloped run from the stove. I just did a quick pic so you cold see what i was talking about, not a PS professional by any means:). Do you guys think this would help??

[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?

[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?
 
that might help a little but i would look into moving over a little and cutting straight into the chimney.
 
That would probably help, but connection coming off the back of the stove is still a mess. How did the chimney get so offset from the hearth? Is it only servicing the stove? Also, is there a cleanout door on this chimney and if so, is it sealed tight?
 
Sorry, I'm not seeing any picture of a chimney cleanout. Is it gasketed so that it seals tightly when shut?

The mess is the lack of a proper thimble. Instead there is an unsupported section of class A going through a wall and then transitioning back to single wall to go into the chimney. It looks like it had to be all goobered up just to make a good connection.
 
Well, it's safer than some installs we've seen at least. Keep that class A at least 2" away from any combustibles. Why is the chimney so offset from the hearth?
 
I think the best solution if it is possible is to move over so you can go straight into the chimney
 
Yeah the wall that it runs through is hollow so, more than 2'' in all directions. Again we just moved in about 3 months ago so i have no idea why it was setup like this.
 
One unknown is how the brick walls on the rear and side of the stove are constructed. You may be able to tell by peering in with a flashlight from the chimney side. Is it brick and no wood at all or is it a stud wall covered by bricks? With the wood over the arch of the back bricks it looks like it might be a stud wall.

The reason I ask is that I am wondering if you could go up on the stove side at an angle and then directly into the chimney. This would take some careful measuring and it would require knowing if there was any wood at all within a foot of the corner. I suspect so, but not sure.

I still can't figure out why the chimney is offset from the hearth. What do you think the chimney was originally meant to service? It looks like there is tie-in brickwork on the wall side, starting a foot or two above where the stove connects with the chimney. What's going on there?

PS: What are your outdoor temps like?
 
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Looks like brick against drywall and studs.


I still can't figure out why the chimney is offset from the hearth.
You and me both.....


What do you think the chimney was originally meant to service?
Well there was a pellet stove there before so maybe the tie in to the chimney can be a little more "funky", don't know never owned one. There is also another "port" upstairs on the same chimney that sealed and i just found something else behind that wall.


[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?

[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?

[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?

[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?

[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?

[Hearth.com] rangeley t50 issues?
 
I'm no expert so take this idea with a grain of sale but couldn't the wood above the stove be removed and have a hole cut in there so you could go up from the stove and slightly right with the connection?
 
My guess is you have no basement under that room and where your hearth sits now used to be an HVAC closet, hence the old furnace thimble in the wall and offset to the original chimney.
 
Yeah, i was mulling over how i could use that other thimble. I would have to remove some wall to see if it was sound, It would be from within that little cubby so not a big deal. Could i keep the same orientation of the stove or would i have to turn it, so it was facing the door on the left? If so it may not work as the handle for the top load would be facing the wall.....and it would look kinda silly.


My guess is you have no basement under that room and where your hearth sits now used to be an HVAC closet, hence the old furnace thimble in the wall and offset to the original chimney.

Good call, there in no basement on this side of the house so....your probably right.
 
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