Question about the whitfield profile 20/30

[Adam2326]

My local repair guy said I need a new vacuum switch. I did some research myself and some testing after reading a bunch on here and I dont think the vacuum switch is bad. Hose connected, auger doesnt work. Hose disconnected, auger works. there is a constant bit of air coming from where I disconnect the hose from and obviously adding pressure to the switch and therefore not feeding. you can hear the vacuum switch click when you take the hose off though. Any help would be great Thanks in advance.

 

[rap69ri]

What are the symptoms with your stove?

 

[Adam2326]

Still no solution to this. Replaced what looks like an exhaust fan to me. Same problem. I pulled of the exhaust pipe, and the stove works fine. I'm pulling my hair out, any suggestions?

 

[Adam2326]

I'm pretty sure this repair guy is ripping me off. I just wish I knew more to catch him. Keeps telling me one thing, coming over, replacing the part, saying "oh well, now its this".

 

[unclbiki]

This was my first season with a pellet stove, and when I first started to use my Whitfield Atvantage I had the same type of problem. After a while I found a rag jammed in the chimney pipe. (I have a 3 inch lined chimney 25 ft). stuck a shop vac in the pipe and pulled out the rag. I got the stove used and it came with some pipe so i put rags in it to stop the ash from making a mess. The installer reused the pipe and did not realise the rags were there. Just check to make sure there is no blockage in the pipe. good luck.

 

[Adam2326]

Hey. where in dutchess county are you? I'm in Hopewell Junction.

Also, there was a bird in my pipe, but he supposedly got it out.

 

[lpgreg]

http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/lowlimit.htm
check this site out.
My manual for the 20/30 says The auger motor or control board is bad, the pressure switch tap or hose may be blocked, Back pressure in venting tripping the pressure switch. Thermostat in standby, Thermostat wires disconnected, high limit disc may have been tripped, door switch not engaged, self aligning bearings in auger motor may be misaligned. good luck

 

[unclbiki]

I'm in Wappingers Falls. So is the stove running now the bird was removed?

 

[Adam2326]

Nope. Now he says its a calibration thing. He "thinks".

 

[unclbiki]

the whole idea of the vacuum switch is to shut the auger off if there is a blockage in the exhaust. mine would work if i disconnected it(plugged it off). don't know anything about calibration

 

[Adam2326]

Me either. $500 in and we still have our thermostats up to 75 to keep warm.

 

[unclbiki]

who is doing the "repairs"?

 

[Adam2326]

A guy I found through a home repair recommendation site.

 

[Revig]

Hi Adam,
A couple things to digest, first - your stove uses a pressure switch ( not vacuum) and it is designed to stop auger operation if the exhaust becomes blocked/plugged. This is a very important safety feature and should not be ignored. Secondly, have you tried to bypass the switch by removing the wires off the pressure switch and putting a jumper wire between them in order to complete the circuit? You need to have the pressure switch hose "plugged in" while trying this. If the venting is blocked with ash or the vent cap restricted with buildup this will cause the auger to stop. Have you tried removing the hose from the switch end and blowing through it? If the port on the fan housing is plugged it needs opened up. The pressure switch is rivoted the the stove , meaning it is not a common thing to replace, but certainly can be bad.

 

[Revig]

Another thought, you have replaced the combustion motor? If the unit is plugged with ash buildup in the ash traps, exhaust channels and transduct, it can and will prevent proper air flow through the stove causing a lazy burn and/or buildup in the burnpot. The pressure switch is factory set as far as the calibration goes and should not be messed with. The correct part# of your pressure switch should be #16050001 .

 

[Adam2326]

I had a feeling this guy was lying to me. So I cleaned my dryer vents a couple weeks ago, and figured, hey I'll use that thing on the stove vents. BAM. 2 Birds nests the service guy left there, CLOGGED with no air passing So now I have a working stove, cancelled his check and from now on I'm servicing this thing myself for the most part. That being said, it looks like a wildfire in there now. I don't remember the flame being that big, any suggestions on ways to correct that? And can you recommend a good silicone to use for the pipe?