Looks like the 90 has two swivel points, not 3. I'd say it would be close on whether or not you'd get 2" of offset. Good suggestion but your just as well with what you have going.
Question about 45° adjustable dvl elbows
- Thread starter Rebelduckman
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Well guys I've got a slight problem. After installing the 45's to my chimney connector at the top my telescoping dvl double wall pipe is too long now. This didn't even cross my mind beforehand. My ceiling is short, actually less than 8 ft. What's the best and cheapest way to fix this? I know the shorter telescoping one would work but that's another 100+ and I'm about 100'd out!
Can single wall be used with the dvl 45's and dvl stove top adapter? Just a thought cause that would be a cheaper fix
I used dvl for my pellet boiler. I don't think you can cut that stuff. The two different kinds of pipe would also look bad. How scraped up is the long one? Maybe you can get a refund. You want it to look good. A hundred bucks and you won't be constantly reminded about it every time you look at it...for years.
Don't mix single and double wall connector. You may be able to replace the bottom section of your telescoping pipe with a 24" length. That still may run up to a $100 bucks or so.
I'm not gonna mix them. I may just get the smaller fixed piece like you said. I think they are around 50-60 at my local place
So you can't cut dvl? I figured I'd screw it up but needing a shorter main pipe I said screw it. Worked like a champ. Actually all i had to buy was the 12" piece but I'm cheap. Looks like it's possible to make a cut if you've got the telescoping pipe
![[Hearth.com] Question about 45° adjustable dvl elbows](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/160/160655-6d92ff9bf5260ed8d38501ea516e69f4.jpg?hash=7B-2IDobkl "[Hearth.com] Question about 45° adjustable dvl elbows")
You can cut down the open ended sections, like a DVL-12ADJ, or the top half of a Telescoping set. Cutting a fixed length would not be advised, and probably voids the warranty and safety listing.
Looks like you cut down the top piece of the telescoping and coupled it with the 12" at the bottom. If so, you're all set, and it looks great.
Yup thanks. I feel a lot better now. Actually got 10 inches from the corners and it calls for 8. Never hurts to be extra cautious. Plus I have the side heat shields as well on my stove.
Now I need some stove pipe paint. Anyone have a recommendation? Should I get some from dura vent so it'll match or is it all the same basic color?
Never really cared much for the DuraVent paint. Seemed thinner and more prone to running. I'd vote for Stove Bright, or whatever your local shop has. Just give the whole system a light touch up before the season. Spot touch up will show the color difference between the pipe and your paint.
Can you please tell me how you adjusted this? We just received ours. Do the two sides twist? Thanks!
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Oldman47
Minister of Fire
Yes. The joint between the sections will slide around to reduce the total angle. The hard part is matching 2 elbows so that you end up back going in the original direction after you have ducked around an obstruction.
Verify with DuraVent that they are using an acetone based paint now on their stove pipe. It used to be they used a lacquer based paint and that was incompatible with Stove Brite during the Simpson days. This probably has changed, but I think I'd give their tech support a call to verify.
bushman
Burning Hunk
I have had fits with elbows myself. What I came up with which may be different than you needs is using a Pipe T and a short horizontal run to an elbow down to the stove. This is good for me because I change stoves occasionally and the elbows don't easily match the different stove flues.
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ok. Thank you! I think we have that part. I have two other questions:
1. We have a telescoping piece to match to the elbow. On the video, the telescoping piece just (magic) slides up. We pushed our two pieces together about 4" less than we needed (about 33" for the 29-46" telescope) and the two are now stuck. Any advice? We can call the manufacturer on Monday also.
2. Do you need to line up the screw holes between the two pipes that are being connected? Will the provided screws tap into the pipe if there isn't a hole? Or do we just drill a tap hole?
Thanks again!
Oldman47
Minister of Fire
On sections of pipe the self tapping screws should do just fine making a new hole. As far as connecting to the stove, I know the collar on the top of my stove that the pipe connects to is far too thick for one to penetrate it.
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