Defiant said:The vacuum switch is located at the other end of tube, jump the wires.
Thanks. Trying that next.
Can I stick a small piece of wire into the nipple on the other end of tube, the part going into the auger, to "clean it out"?
Defiant said:The vacuum switch is located at the other end of tube, jump the wires.
DexterDay said:Did you just try blowing the hose out and reconnecting to the barb??
The hose may have just been clogged. If the hose isnt clear, or the barb is clogged (on auger.chute) then the switch wont get power.
If you didnt blow through the hose (towards stove, Blowing on end that goes to switch and into stove), I would give that a shot. Reinstall the vac switch, re-connect the hose, make sure front door is closed and power it up (turn on stat).
grendel336 said:So how much vacuum should be getting pulled through that hose?
Should I be able to hear the vacuum if I unplug the hose where it enters auger housing?
I seriously doubt it.
What If I gently sucked on that end of hose as a previous post suggested but I did it while stove was running and everything else was connected?
That would work as long as you had enough extra hose to get your head out of the stove. If the auger motor runs with you sucking on the hose, then you know for sure the switch is good and the problem is one of those listed by others.
I can't imagine there's much of a vacuum. Basically it's just the exhaust fan running that causes the suction correct?
Correct
I'm just tickled to death I don't have a dead auger motor.
As for the oddity of the vacuum switch being dead or not, I had a dead control board. Is it possible that the control board death triggered the vacuum switch death?
No, the vacuum switch doesn't give a flip about the control board.
At any rate, my old vacuum switch part has apparently been completely replaced with something different. If you look at my picture, and then the link I posted you'll see a vastly different part.
Yes, the new ones supposedly are better. Mine is just like your old one.
My guess is the old part isn't available for a reason. Perhaps because it was a crap part to begin with?
grendel336 said:I completely removed hose. Blew through it. Then I attached hose to nipple on auger housing and blew through it. I also used a piece of thin wire and poked that into nipple on auger housing and it slid right in with no friction at all.
I replaced the door gasket with a new one before this season.
What's the "barb" you're talking about and what's the clothes pin trick?
Where's the barb?
If I removed hose from the nipple on the auger housing and then turned stove on should I be able to hear a vacuum pull through that nipple?
Or should I be able to feel it if I stick my finger over that opening?
If I gently sucked on the hose with it connected to the vacuum switch when stove is first turned on that would be a perfect test for the vacuum switch right?
Since bypassing the vacuum switch instantly turned on the auger it's somehow connected to that switch.
A gently suck-job would confirm a bad switch I assume.
grendel336 said:I feel fairly confident that the problem is the vacuum switch.
grendel336 said:It's about beer-thirty here so I think messing with electricity, vacuums and such is tomorrow's project..
grendel336 said:If I gently sucked on the hose with it connected to the vacuum switch when stove is first turned on that would be a perfect test for the vacuum switch right?
Didn't I just answer this???
Since bypassing the vacuum switch instantly turned on the auger it's somehow connected to that switch.
A gently suck-job would confirm a bad switch I assume.
tjnamtiw said:grendel336 said:If I gently sucked on the hose with it connected to the vacuum switch when stove is first turned on that would be a perfect test for the vacuum switch right?
Didn't I just answer this???
Since bypassing the vacuum switch instantly turned on the auger it's somehow connected to that switch.
A gently suck-job would confirm a bad switch I assume.
tjnamtiw said:You don't have to pull the stove out at all to get at the vacuum switch and the hose. Just take off the right side cast piece by unscrewing the two phillips head screws at the top of the piece that hold a sheet metal bracket in place. Do the gentle 'suck trick' to rule out the vacuum switch or prove it's bad. If you have an ohm meter (multi meter), you can put the leads on the two terminals while you suck and you should see the resistance go to zero. If not, the switch is toast.
grendel336 said:tjnamtiw said:You don't have to pull the stove out at all to get at the vacuum switch and the hose. Just take off the right side cast piece by unscrewing the two phillips head screws at the top of the piece that hold a sheet metal bracket in place. Do the gentle 'suck trick' to rule out the vacuum switch or prove it's bad. If you have an ohm meter (multi meter), you can put the leads on the two terminals while you suck and you should see the resistance go to zero. If not, the switch is toast.
Oh, I see what you mean...although not sure the hose is long enough to do that, but I'll try that before pulling stove out.
I've pulled that panel off so much in the last 2 weeks, I know it very well.
grendel336 said:
I tip my glass to you all.
And yes I do have to pull stove out. It's a fireplace insert.
Sucking will wait until tomorrow. I have more pressing things to tend to now. See picture above. :coolsmile:
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