I blew the 5 amp glass fuse while cleaning ashes outta the stove , I bumped the fire pot n shorted it out against the metal casing. ive had this problem in the past but this time just replacing the fuse and realining the pot didn't fix it.the next fuse blu. checked it again put another fuse in and this one exploded and smoke came off of the fuse holder cap. thought I had a bad thermostat so I unhooked it twisted wires together and it came on but 2 minuintes later the fuse exploded again and fuse holder cap was very hot. found bare wires in bottom of stove that led to igniter cut badpart off wired it back up replaced fuse and now I have nothing. any ideas? only source of heat and on disability cant afford a service man. tring to test connections but without the wiring specs I don't know the output to look for. could it have fried the circuit board if so how do you diagnose that? any help please, thanks
quadrafire 1100 pellet stove does nothing after blowing fuse n replacing it
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I don't understand what you shorted out by bumping firepot. Do you have the original control box in it? No way to test it unless you take it to a dealer, and he can either test it if he has the equipment, or put it in a stove. Could the fuse holder be shot now and that is what is blowing the fuses, and stopping all juice now? Don't know why a short would do it, but is the #3 snap disc tripped ? Need to set reset button? And are there more shorts still in the stove yet? kap
not sure abort more shorts yet, as far as I know its the original junction box, not the control box. it shorted out and blew the fuse, has before. no I have been reading about the snap disc but not sure where it is. do you know and can you point me to it and how to reset it. is it a triped switch or just a push button reset? what shorted out? it was the igniter itself that grounded out and blew the 5 amp glass fuse in junction box, hope that helps you understand
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Ok. Now I get it. Couldn't figure out what you shorted by bumping firepot. Are you saying that you have nothing on stove working now, or just igniter? You can do a continuity test on igniter to see if it is good. If just it is bad, you can start fire manually till you can get a replacement. Otherwise, info above is what to check. kap
#3 snap disc is located on right hand side of stove on feed tube. They usually have a reset button in between spade connectors you just push to reset. I would unplug stove first. IF you go to Quads website, you can find an owners manual for the 1000. It might help you figure things out. kap
Sounds like you have a stove of worms on your hands. If it were mine I would unplug the stove at look into, and at all wiring connections. Open up the junction box, not the control box, and make sure everything is wired so that you will not chance any more shorts. Then continue on with the help that Kap has given you.
I have nothing at all after the last fuse blew. I'm still unsure what caused the last few fuses to explode not just blow. I'm taking an educated guess that the igniter wires caused it. I did fix them but after Cockburn and installing a new fuse I got nothing but a dead stove. Nothing comes on, no leds on circuit board no fans just silence, only good thing I can see is it's not attempting to blow fuses anymore. I'll take that for now. I did download the manual but couldn't find the snapdisc. I did look around feed tube . My feed tube is on the left side facing the stove, right side looking out from stove. I'll check it now and let you know if I find it and what happens. Thanks again, to you both
Ok found snapdisc but I left my power cord at friends house, he was testing the junction box. So I don't know if pushing the button did anything. Didn't seem like it did anything. But the wiring diagram shows the black wire coming off of the fuse holder going to the snapdisc so I'm hoping the lack of power is due to the snapdisc being damaged when the fuse blew rather than the circuit board. I won't have heat if that's the case. Let you guys know tomorrow when I hook it back up.
Since the fire never entered into the feed tube I'm guessing that this snapdisc can trip for other reasons. So just bypass it to test the stove to help diagnose problems I got it. Who can test the circuit board? Only dealer close by can't. I'm really up against it here seems no one knows much about pellet stove issues unless it's obvious. Tried quadrafires web site but no listings for service centers. Can a computer repair shop possibly test it?
IF you know someone with another stove, you can test it in their stove or if the dealer has a stove, he can test it in it. Just always make sure you unplug stove first, before removing or installing control box, or you run the risk of toasting it. If you have the clear control box, you can test it yourself. Unplug stove. Then jump the vac switch wires and the #1 snap disc wires. Be sure they can't ground out on something. Plug stove back in. Set the dial on control box to 0. Turn up thermostat. The following components will each turn on sequentially and run for 10 seconds. Comb. blower feed motor conv. fan igniter. But I would double check the fuse holder that it isn't shot and you need to make a new one, as control box test won't work if fuse holder isn't letting power thru. kap
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Ok, got power now, replaced fuse holder it was bad. But igniter, auger isn't working. Going to buy a new thermostat in bit this one was troubling anyway, but have bypass it for now. Not blowing fuses now, so closer. But where do I got from here
I have got a black junction box and black control box, the dealer 20 mins away says they can test it this evening at 4, I hope it's something I wired wrong while replacing fuse holder but since nothing is blown or smoking I'm guessing it's right. Kinda stumped right now calling for snow tonight trying to get it done before sundown, thanks all.
Also reset switch isn't doing anything. Maybe it fried or I have a wire on wrong? It has 3 pronged only 2 yellow wires. Don't think I can mess it up it's a switch basically, right.
Man at local dealer just shot me down in testing board. Saud there is no way to test it except on stove, not what guy said this a.m.. Anyway he Saud if the .5 amp fuse is Goodson board and the board doesn't smell burnt or show signs of damage I'll have to track it down with a tester. Board looks good n smells ok. Any ideas on where to start? Since it's no trying to light or feed pellets I'm worried about the board not telling stove to do these things. Can I bypass each component to test them? Thanks
What you need to do is see where power is, and power isn't, to pinpoint what is wrong. Still no call light for things to even run, if bulb isn't burned out. I am betting the individual components are fine. With all that shorting out and destroying fuse holder, I am betting box got hit. But you need to check on power. kap
Ok no continuity on the igniter wires. , or the thermocouple wires, the wires in left side of junction box when facing the stove. On front not inside are igniter wires, right? Anyway no continuity on them.
If there is no continuity on the igniter, it is shot. Same with the thermocouple. But you have to test on their wires only. Not hooked up. On the igniter, unscrew the ceramic nuts and test the igniter wires themselves. Same thing with thermocouple. A bad thermocouple can stop auger feed and igniter. But you still need to see if tstat is calling for heat. No call light. Need to check bulb.
Ok had to walk away from it for a bit. Will look at bulb and see if it appears blown will also test to see if power is getting to it. Can't remember if that light comes on with power or just when it feeds or what, that info will help. To be honest I don't recall seeing it on at all , at least not this year. Ok I disconnected the igniter but the other end of wire dives into a wiring harness so I have not tested it properly, sorry confused thermocouple wires for it. Ok, to test the thermocouple wires, I disconnected it from junction box, removed cover , the wires are connected on the fire pot end, so unwind them? Then test each wire separate?
Ok igniter wires are good, all the way to male adapter on wiring harness. The pig tails coming off of element are good as well. Now the thermocouple wires are twisted together inside the burn camber, amp I right in saying that should not have to unwind them to test continuity ? I unhooked them from junction box and tested them same as I did thermostat wire, it is also good. But I get nothing on the thermocouple wires. Do I need to unhook them? I don't see why but will if needed.
Bulb looks good, but maybe not , bulbs can be deceiving. If bulb is bad does that break a circuit that does more than light the bulb?
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