I ordered two of the fuses TR1/MCRW1.5A and two of the AQH2223 to start with, grand total W/O shipping $5.24 Unless turbo pipes up and suggests something else I figured I try these first. I figure order two each, that way it will never fail again, until I put the spares "Away" never to be found again...
Quadra Fire Sante fe control box issue
- Thread starter Den-Den
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
ha ha ha. You use the same insurance policy I do. Order something and you will never need it! Same problem here, though. 'Now where in the world did I put that?????' 
I thought it was kind of funny that they used a 1.5 amp fuse to protect an optoislolator relay that handles, I think, 0.9 amps. ???
I thought it was kind of funny that they used a 1.5 amp fuse to protect an optoislolator relay that handles, I think, 0.9 amps. ???
Yes, it is AQH2223 and made by Panasonic. Your description sound like it is the cause of the failure with the auger. Good news is that you have the latest control module. Bad news is the the AQH2223 is bad. It is the triac. Check Mouser for a new part. I recommend installing a socket for it while you are at it. Make sure the fuse is good.
Good job diagnosing the problem. And yes, always order spares. Are you sure you ordered the right fuse. It is a PICO II 250V. Oh, and make sure you get the Panasonic part. It is rated higher than other manufacturers the last time I checked.
EDIT: I would have posted earlier but I was out back doing some cutting & splitting.
Good job diagnosing the problem. And yes, always order spares. Are you sure you ordered the right fuse. It is a PICO II 250V. Oh, and make sure you get the Panasonic part. It is rated higher than other manufacturers the last time I checked.
EDIT: I would have posted earlier but I was out back doing some cutting & splitting.
tjnamtiw said:ha ha ha. You use the same insurance policy I do. Order something and you will never need it! Same problem here, though. 'Now where in the world did I put that?????'
I thought it was kind of funny that they used a 1.5 amp fuse to protect an optoislolator relay that handles, I think, 0.9 amps. ???
The fuse selection was not a wise choice in the design. I hear you on extra parts. Everyone laughs at me for the boxes of junk I have in storage......until they need that odd ball part that of course I have tucked away somewhere. Fixing broken stuff is so much more fun than just chucking it in the trash and buying new.
Den-Den said:Quick update, I did a bit of testing, found F2 was blown on the board, looked like a resistor, I soldered in a 1 amp fuse, now the auger always runs again. Back to square 1, oh yea I never did mention the getting torqued because as I was working on the stove the GF came in and said the garage door spring broke, bad timing, I did find out that Sante fe glass doors will crack when slammed in a bit of a hissy fit...stupid me..(All I wanted to do today was dig out my Dodge Stealth and get ready for a road trip next weekend) Come on Spring hurry up already
!
I had a few garage door springs break and there is nothing worse than standing outside of the door as you hear springs flying where you store your summer car. I just hope the Stealth wasn't in there or didn't get damaged if it was.
Thanks turbotech for checking in, I hope this solves the problem, not sure why it blew the fuse in the first place, odd I guess. Is there anything else I should have guessed at ordering?
I would have installed an 8 pin DIP socket so that could have been ordered. It depends on how long you plan on keeping the stove.
OK not sure what a dip socket is... yet.... I'm looking it up, but I am somewhat of a dip stick. I did check and I did order the Panasonic AQH2223 Was just looking for the socket you had mentioned and found nothing. Like I said in an early post, I am very novice in this area, wanted to do electronics back in the day, but failed because I am color blind and the first thing they taught us was resistors and band colors, needless to say I failed because of that, so got into autos and now maintenance/electro mechanics at work.
Now is see what you where talking about, will the AQH2223 plug directly into this?turbotech said:
Yea, a socket would have made it easier. Should have thought of that. :red: Not only does it make it easier to replace next time but also you don't have to worry about damaging triac from overheating. Hopefully, Den-Den has some small alligator clips to clip onto leads while soldering.
I used to fix TV's and radios in the old, old days and have many parts left over. Want some tubes????? ha ha ha. Picture tube tester? Flyback transformers? The only piece of equipment I can use is the scope and capacitor tester. Sold my big Techtronics scope. Now all the electronics stuff is throw away, thanks to China.
Once I was pushing my little fiberglass kit car out of my garage and just as it cleared the door, the torsion spring broke and the heavy wooden garage door came crashing down. Scared the crap out of me. it would have been like a guillotine on that plastic car!! Lucky!
I used to fix TV's and radios in the old, old days and have many parts left over. Want some tubes????? ha ha ha. Picture tube tester? Flyback transformers? The only piece of equipment I can use is the scope and capacitor tester. Sold my big Techtronics scope. Now all the electronics stuff is throw away, thanks to China.
Once I was pushing my little fiberglass kit car out of my garage and just as it cleared the door, the torsion spring broke and the heavy wooden garage door came crashing down. Scared the crap out of me. it would have been like a guillotine on that plastic car
!! Lucky!Den-Den said:
Mouser.com part
535-08-3518-10
8P SOLDER TIN/GLD
It just saves the PCB from being heated too much every time the part is changed.
If you work cars you can fix anything. So many different technologies in cars that it forces you to learn a little bit of all. Restoring old cars with the latest tech is one of my favorite past times. Nothing like a turbocharged oldie putting out 600+ HP.
You did a great job figuring out what was wrong with that box. What did you install for a timer to get it by for now? I am curious.
tjnamtiw said:Yea, a socket would have made it easier. Should have thought of that. :red: Not only does it make it easier to replace next time but also you don't have to worry about damaging triac from overheating. Hopefully, Den-Den has some small alligator clips to clip onto leads while soldering.
I used to fix TV's and radios in the old, old days and have many parts left over. Want some tubes????? ha ha ha. Picture tube tester? Flyback transformers? The only piece of equipment I can use is the scope and capacitor tester. Sold my big Techtronics scope. Now all the electronics stuff is throw away, thanks to China.
Once I was pushing my little fiberglass kit car out of my garage and just as it cleared the door, the torsion spring broke and the heavy wooden garage door came crashing down. Scared the crap out of me. it would have been like a guillotine on that plastic car
The biggest killer for fixing new stuff is dealing with the surface mount technology. Sometimes it is too small to fix and I have to chuck it. Knowing how to use a scope is an art. So many people need the application specific tool to fix things these days because they can't figure out a scope. It is one of the best tools to have.
turbotech said:
Fast old cars, my second car ever was a 1965 Tri Power GTO (Built beyond factory specs) at the ripe old age of 16. loved it had to sell to it go to Dunwoody, (Google it) Now a Dodge Stealth, looking for the Twin Turbo model, twice the trouble, right :roll: ?
Anyway back on track, Thanks for the kudo's . The relay I am using is an Allen Bradley Cat# 700-HRF72DA18 Series C. set at like 10 sec. on and 20 seconds off. these are great timers for all kinds of stuff.
turbotech said:tjnamtiw said:Yea, a socket would have made it easier. Should have thought of that. :red: Not only does it make it easier to replace next time but also you don't have to worry about damaging triac from overheating. Hopefully, Den-Den has some small alligator clips to clip onto leads while soldering.
I used to fix TV's and radios in the old, old days and have many parts left over. Want some tubes????? ha ha ha. Picture tube tester? Flyback transformers? The only piece of equipment I can use is the scope and capacitor tester. Sold my big Techtronics scope. Now all the electronics stuff is throw away, thanks to China.
Once I was pushing my little fiberglass kit car out of my garage and just as it cleared the door, the torsion spring broke and the heavy wooden garage door came crashing down. Scared the crap out of me. it would have been like a guillotine on that plastic car
The biggest killer for fixing new stuff is dealing with the surface mount technology. Sometimes it is too small to fix and I have to chuck it. Knowing how to use a scope is an art. So many people need the application specific tool to fix things these days because they can't figure out a scope. It is one of the best tools to have.
I had one for diagnosing cars a while back, we used them on the points system back in the day, probably would have worked for this but took up a bay in the garage.
Den-Den said:
I bought me one of them there, twin turbo stealth's two summers ago, fun to drive, but I miss doing burnouts, lol. The wife's summer toy is a 96 Pontiac firebird convertable, with a 350 LT1 motor, talk about a car that can do burnouts. Also my 88 Mustang GT is good for burning tires too...........
Ah the days of points! That's why I liked Fords over Chevy's. Got tired of that damn distributor WAY BACK THERE. My favorite rides were my '67 Cougar GT with a 390 4 speed, a '69 427 425 HP Vette T top with side pipes and 4 speed, and a '63 Porsche 356 B Super 90 with airport gearing for gymkhanas. Those were the days. Now I can't even change my serpentine belt on my car without taking the damn wheel off and removing the inner wheel well. Of course, on my Cougar I couldn't change plugs without drilling holes in the wheel wells to get at them. That 390 was packed in there but man did it scream.
Points??? What are those, lol. Yes them were the good old days, but now I have a 67 Impala SS sporting a MSD ignition, and fuel injection, modern day tech is nice, if it keeps working..........
B-Mod said:
At least you can get at the distributor without laying on your belly like a lizard. I actually cracked a rib one time on a Chevy truck laying in there.
Ouch, I remember on my old 4 door impala, with a 250 straight 6, jumping under the hood, and standing next to the motor to work on it, plenty of room under the hood, when you did not opt for the v8's. Those were the days when cars were simple, you could pull the motor out of the car in less than two hours, now that same job will take days on this newer stuff.......
TLHinCanada
Feeling the Heat
tjnamtiw said:
The reason I stopped buying ford's was that convenient distributor with the vacuum line facing forward. Setting the timing required removing and plugging said line, it was stiff, gave it a good pull. I stopped the engine when my hand contacted the fan. It taught me two things, it hurts a lot to do stupid things, and don't buy fords.
OUCH A neighborhood cat was curled up and sleeping in the fan shroud on my wife's old Camaro when she started it up one morning!! Talk about a mess NO fan clutch in those days either.
A neighborhood cat was curled up and sleeping in the fan shroud on my wife's old Camaro when she started it up one morning!! Talk about a mess NO fan clutch in those days either. You guys are to funny :cheese: , Ignition horror story that comes to mind is 1988 Lincoln Town Car, Leaning over engine with car running and resting arm on the coil pack with a bad plug wire. 80KV+ through arm and out pants zipper, can you say Tazzer :ahhh: !
OK back to my original post, parts in the mail form what mouser tells me, but today when I shut stove down to clean fire pot...turned back on and now red flashing light three times. Suspect thermo coupler may be toast from my overfeeding pot while adjusting my makeshift timer. Need to dig into the forum for how to check that now. -4 degrees here in northern WI this morning, what happened to Spring???
!OK back to my original post, parts in the mail form what mouser tells me, but today when I shut stove down to clean fire pot...turned back on and now red flashing light three times. Suspect thermo coupler may be toast from my overfeeding pot while adjusting my makeshift timer. Need to dig into the forum for how to check that now. -4 degrees here in northern WI this morning, what happened to Spring???
Damn, that was my next story! I did the same thing on a very hot day leaning over the fender with a bare sweaty (salty) chest. I felt every revolution of that damn motor! My wife still won't accept that excuse.............................. %-P
! I did the same thing on a very hot day leaning over the fender with a bare sweaty (salty) chest. I felt every revolution of that damn motor! My wife still won't accept that excuse.............................. %-P- Status
