Quadra Fire Santa Fe - multiple problems after sitting for the summer - one "snap disk bad," maybe a

[jtakeman]

Remember some of the quads have auger motors that have funny habits like running backwards and switching directions. That capacitor appears to be the hallmark of such things. Make certain your manuals are for the correct stove.

What two wires can screw up pales compared to 4 plus an additional device. What ever happened to KISS?

Okay, the augur motor works. Putting live current on the white and black pins of the unplugged line starts it. (And also is a significant shock-or-short danger, but I got away with it.)

Does that pretty much mean I'm looking at a control box gone bad, or is there still a possibility that it's snap disc #2 or something else?

Looking more closely, the incoming plug just has three lines - two white on the same plug pin and the black. Then the plug on the motor side has to capacitor over to a red line from the black, possibly to give it an extra jolt to start? No matter. It can start. So the question is why it's not being asked to.

Looking at the print Power comes from the vacuum switch then it goes to the snap disk 2. From there to the auger. You need to trace the path before you can look at the control box. I'm betting its snap disk 2.

But I would jump the vacuum switch and snap disc 2. See if it works. Then plug back in the vacuum switch and see if it still works. If it does the vac switch is good. and snap disc 2 is at fault. Looking at the parts snap disk 2 is supposed to be auto reseting(not sure on all stoves though) if it isn't there is a red button tj was mentioning. push that and reconnect the snap disc.

Another tip is sometimes you need to tap these discs or heck it could also just be a loose connection! You might be able to put it all back together and away it goes!

 

[whit]

Generally if the motor actually works the two things that are in series providing power to the motor is the vacuum switch and a high temperature switch, the vacuum switch normally needs to close and does so when the combustion blower is running, the high temperature switch is normally closed and allows the power to get to the auger. When the high temperature switch activates it opens preventing power from getting to the auger, this switch comes in two delicious flavors auto reset for those that don't really care and manual reset for those that want to know if in fact the stove is over heating.

Okay, since I've jumped the vacuum switch to no effect the question is how to test the high temperature switch. Would that be the same as the "snap disk #2" that's located where I have to disassemble the stove down as far as removing the combustion blower, which then requires (they say) a new gasket when put back?

If so, I'd love to find a place to temporarily bypass that to prove the concept, before putting in the order for the gasket and snap disk and waiting however long for 'em.

Oh, and there's also a "snap disk #3", that the manual does say is resettable - probably #2 is not from the picture found in a parts catalog elsewhere. Snap disc #3 is another of those wonderful free-floating parts in Quadra's parts brochure - up from somewhere in the middle of things, but no real indicator where, although they do suggest resetting it. It sounds like if that needed resetting though it would be the same as if the fuse was blown - no action at all. So probably can rule that out.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Generally if the motor actually works the two things that are in series providing power to the motor is the vacuum switch and a high temperature switch, the vacuum switch normally needs to close and does so when the combustion blower is running, the high temperature switch is normally closed and allows the power to get to the auger. When the high temperature switch activates it opens preventing power from getting to the auger, this switch comes in two delicious flavors auto reset for those that don't really care and manual reset for those that want to know if in fact the stove is over heating.

Okay, since I've jumped the vacuum switch to no effect the question is how to test the high temperature switch. Would that be the same as the "snap disk #2" that's located where I have to disassemble the stove down as far as removing the combustion blower, which then requires (they say) a new gasket when put back?

If so, I'd love to find a place to temporarily bypass that to prove the concept, before putting in the order for the gasket and snap disk and waiting however long for 'em.

Oh, and there's also a "snap disk #3", that the manual does say is resettable - probably #2 is not from the picture found in a parts catalog elsewhere. Snap disc #3 is another of those wonderful free-floating parts in Quadra's parts brochure - up from somewhere in the middle of things, but no real indicator where, although they do suggest resetting it. It sounds like if that needed resetting though it would be the same as if the fuse was blown - no action at all. So probably can rule that out.

Sounds like that stove has an extra switch, I don't have the manual. Find the resettable one follow the colored wires on the diagram. Most stoves have 2 snap discs. 1 is POF and 2 is high temperature shut down.

 

[jtakeman]

Generally if the motor actually works the two things that are in series providing power to the motor is the vacuum switch and a high temperature switch, the vacuum switch normally needs to close and does so when the combustion blower is running, the high temperature switch is normally closed and allows the power to get to the auger. When the high temperature switch activates it opens preventing power from getting to the auger, this switch comes in two delicious flavors auto reset for those that don't really care and manual reset for those that want to know if in fact the stove is over heating.

Okay, since I've jumped the vacuum switch to no effect the question is how to test the high temperature switch. Would that be the same as the "snap disk #2" that's located where I have to disassemble the stove down as far as removing the combustion blower, which then requires (they say) a new gasket when put back?

If so, I'd love to find a place to temporarily bypass that to prove the concept, before putting in the order for the gasket and snap disk and waiting however long for 'em.

Oh, and there's also a "snap disk #3", that the manual does say is resettable - probably #2 is not from the picture found in a parts catalog elsewhere. Snap disc #3 is another of those wonderful free-floating parts in Quadra's parts brochure - up from somewhere in the middle of things, but no real indicator where, although they do suggest resetting it. It sounds like if that needed resetting though it would be the same as if the fuse was blown - no action at all. So probably can rule that out.

Sounds like that stove has an extra switch, I don't have the manual. Find the resettable one follow the colored wires on the diagram. Most stoves have 2 snap discs. 1 is POF and 2 is high temperature shut down.

Yep 3 switches. #3 is the burn back tj mentioned. It will kill every thing and requires manual reset.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

And ta da go looking for a flashing yellow light ... page 29 bottom ... idiot thermocouple ...

 

[whit]

Yep 3 switches. #3 is the burn back tj mentioned. It will kill every thing and requires manual reset.

So by "kill everything" that means the combustion blower wouldn't be running?

 

[jtakeman]

Yep 3 switches. #3 is the burn back tj mentioned. It will kill every thing and requires manual reset.

So by "kill everything" that means the combustion blower wouldn't be running?

Yes! It will shut down every thing.

 

[whit]

Hey, wadduya know. Unplugging a whole bunch of stuff to try various jumpers and so on, and then plugging it back to normal and trying one more time (I've been doing a lot of "trying one more time") and the damn thing finally works!

The guys who said "sometimes it just starts working after you bang on it for a bit" take the grand prize. But thank you all. I've learned a lot. Whether this was a tarnished connector or something more mechanical that got some sense inadvertently knocked into it I can't say. But persistently screwing around did something. And without the encouragement of all here I'm sure I would have given up too soon.

 

[jtakeman]

Woohoo, We need beer now! Ahhh I guess your buying too! :cheese:

Glad its going and your now more comfy with you stove. Got to give you credit for not walking away. Frustrating=yes, Easy=no, But don't you feel good now! ;-)

 

[heat seeker]

Great! Now you can enjoy your stove even more, since you understand its inner workings better. Way to stay with it, and not let that hoss throw you!

 

[sante fe]

Did you ever find snap disc #2 ? Good job staying with. The Santa Fe for the most part is reliable.

 

[tjnamtiw]

After looking at the free standing Sante Fe manual, I can see that they DID make it difficult to replace snap disk #2. Must have been Chevy truck engineers working on the side! If you wanted to check to see if it's closed as it should be, put an ohm meter lead on the power lead going to your auger motor. Put the other lead on the wire coming from your vacuum switch (the one that is NOT coming back to your control box). Disconnect that wire from the vacuum switch so you are not measuring the other way around the circuit. Look at your schematic in your manual to see what I mean.

Glad you got it going but scared that there's still a gremlin in there.

 

[jtakeman]

Glad you got it going but scared that there's still a gremlin in there.

Gremlins? :ahhh:

 

[tjnamtiw]

Nasty little buggers! %-P

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Someone both fed and watered this one after midnight.

 

[tjnamtiw]

Okay, since I've jumped the vacuum switch to no effect the question is how to test the high temperature switch. Would that be the same as the "snap disk #2" that's located where I have to disassemble the stove down as far as removing the combustion blower, which then requires (they say) a new gasket when put back?

Might as well order a couple of gaskets anyway since you will be pulling that blower at the end of the season to clean it.

If so, I'd love to find a place to temporarily bypass that to prove the concept, before putting in the order for the gasket and snap disk and waiting however long for 'em.

Oh, and there's also a "snap disk #3", that the manual does say is resettable - probably #2 is not from the picture found in a parts catalog elsewhere. Snap disc #3 is another of those wonderful free-floating parts in Quadra's parts brochure - up from somewhere in the middle of things, but no real indicator where, although they do suggest resetting it. It sounds like if that needed resetting though it would be the same as if the fuse was blown - no action at all. So probably can rule that out.

Yep, the manual says #2 resets itself...??? I'm not sure I would want that. I'd rather know that I had an overfire problem. I'm glad you called my attention to that. I have to check mine and perhaps change it out with one with a manual reset

 

[Bkins]

Ya. the gremlins are out just a hare early for Halloween. Probably grew his gemlin in the stoves time off. Your fault that you put it away and gave it a place to grow. LOL

 

[tjnamtiw]

I think the father of the gremlins is 'Murphy'.
The snap disk #2 on my Castile is a manual reset although the owner's manual says it resets itself............. I'm running the Sante Fe so I think it just might be prudent to NOT stick my hand back there to check. ;-P

 

[jtakeman]

gremlins will get cha! :bug: