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So the stove is still doing the same thing, running for a few hours then stops feeding pellets even though the call light is still on.
I tried jumping the snap disc 2 and the call light dimmed and when I removed the wire it restarted, but only ran for an hour or so before stopping again.
So the stove is still doing the same thing, running for a few hours then stops feeding pellets even though the call light is still on.
I tried jumping the snap disc 2 and the call light dimmed and when I removed the wire it restarted, but only ran for an hour or so before stopping again.
Had the same issue with my 1200i. It was the thermocouple wire. It had a break in it under the insulation. When the stove was cold the connection worked fine. As it heated up, the wire expanded and caused the connection to be broken. It was a real pain to find the break. If yours has not been replaced in a few years then I would consider replacing that before the control box.
Had the same issue with my 1200i. It was the thermocouple wire. It had a break in it under the insulation. When the stove was cold the connection worked fine. As it heated up, the wire expanded and caused the connection to be broken. It was a real pain to find the break. If yours has not been replaced in a few years then I would consider replacing that before the control box.
The stove is usually still running for while after it's warmed up and will restart for a while if I turn the thermostat down and then back up. I wonder if a momentary break in the connection is enough to turn off the pellet feed.
It's worth a shot. It's not terribly expensive, and worst case I'll have a spare.
I would trace the #2 shap disc wires and see if there is a short somewhere too. With the call light dimming, and then stove starts when you take wire off has me confused. kap
I would trace the #2 shap disc wires and see if there is a short somewhere too. With the call light dimming, and then stove starts when you take wire off has me confused. kap
I think I made a bad connection. I only had a small scrap of wire. I did a good and proper jump on the #2 snap disc and the stove did the same thing, shuts down after a few hours.
One thing you can try is to jump the connections on the stove, where the thermostat wires connect. This will make the stove run nonstop. This can tell you if you have any issues with your tstat or the wires. kap
One thing you can try is to jump the connections on the stove, where the thermostat wires connect. This will make the stove run nonstop. This can tell you if you have any issues with your tstat or the wires. kap
I tried that and the stove ran for 7 hours before I had to shut it down, because everyone in the house was complaining it was too hot. So good sign I think.
Maybe the thermostat is the issue, although I don't understand why the call light always stayed on.
I'll run it again when it's not so unseasonably warm out and see how it does.
I tried that and the stove ran for 7 hours before I had to shut it down, because everyone in the house was complaining it was too hot. So good sign I think.
Maybe the thermostat is the issue, although I don't understand why the call light always stayed on.
I'll run it again when it's not so unseasonably warm out and see how it does.
If it ran for 7 hours without stopping. this tells us that it is either a bad tstat wire, or more likely a bad tstat. Stove ran fine when you bypassed these two things. The tstats are not just an off and on switch. They have to sense the temp in the room to operate. kap
If it ran for 7 hours without stopping. this tells us that it is either a bad tstat wire, or more likely a bad tstat. Stove ran fine when you bypassed these two things. The tstats are not just an off and on switch. They have to sense the temp in the room to operate. kap
The wire is new and it is an older mechanical tstat, so probably the tstat. I'm going to test it again to be sure when I have a chance to keep an eye on it. It's still surprising because I thought it acted like an on off switch as well.
Thermostats that are millivolt compatible can wear out at the connection. The switch can make contact and at 24 volts would work but the amount of voltage going to the stat in some of these stoves is almost zero so a very small amount of corrosion on the contacts could make it show a call for heat but not enough current flow to trigger the electronics. Harman calls for a thermostat that has gold contacts for this very reason. Make sure if you get a new stat that it's millivolt compatible. JMHO
Ron