Pump questions?

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Graham

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 5, 2008
15
ontario
Just a couple of quick questions, I have a two story house with no duct work upstairs. So I am going to install a myson heater, my question is I currently have a taco 007 pump that pumps water from my stove which is about 120 ft through my side arm on my water heater, to my furnace then back to the stove. Will it be able to push water 15 ft to the heater up stairs? the specs say 11ft head so I don't think it will but not sure. What pump would be recomended for what I am doing? I have 1" pex line. Also what sort of prices have people seen on the pre insulated pex line, the stuff with both return and supply line? And does anybody have a country flame wood stove specificly the inserts?

thanks for any info.
 
Your 11 ft of head rating has a small relation for creating flow for your upstairs. Its your system pressure. .433lbs psi raises water one foot. Your gpm is affected with head loss and restriction. That is the resistance that your terminal devices have created in the system. RE: coil, pipe and fittings. I have been out of the residential side too long to answere your pex questions. Chek temp and psi ratings you will expose it to for sure & others can answere this. Your pump will certianly create flow. These pumps are only circulators and do not create pressure. Your feed water to the system creats the pressure that gives you the hight at
witch the htg water will be available to get to. Dinners ready so gotta go. hopes this gives you an angle.
 
To put that simpler... the height doesn't matter, in terms of pumping, because it's a closed loop. The water goes up one pipe, but it comes down another, so the two water columns balance each other. All the pump has to do is fight the friction in the pipe.

The 007 is probably fine for that. Since we're talking about friction, the bends and valves and fittings all come into play.

What size Myson heater is it feeding?

Joe
 
Is the stove an open or closed system? In other words pressurized or un-pressurized?

In a closed loop, pressurized system the circulator merely over comes the resistance in the piping.

hr
 
The insulated PEX with 2 1" lines runs somewhere in the 10.00-12.00 per foot for the burial stuff.
 
The myson unit is the whispa 2 9000 w recessed wall heater. My system is an open loop, I have a central boiler outdoor stove. I will have about 7 ball valves and 60 feet of 1" pex line in my basement plus another 30 foot run to my heater up stairs. I was thinking of putting a manifold on the discharge side of the pump have one arm go to the heater and the other one to my furnace and hot water heater, I'm just not sure if it would work or if the water would take the path of least resistance and stay in the basement.
 
Graham said:
The myson unit is the whispa 2 9000 w recessed wall heater.

Okay. 1/2" pex would actually be sufficient to feed that unit. Of course, going with larger pex is not a problem. Mostly just an FYI for anyone else who reads this.

Graham said:
My system is an open loop, I have a central boiler outdoor stove. I will have about 7 ball valves and 60 feet of 1" pex line in my basement plus another 30 foot run to my heater up stairs. I was thinking of putting a manifold on the discharge side of the pump have one arm go to the heater and the other one to my furnace and hot water heater, I'm just not sure if it would work or if the water would take the path of least resistance and stay in the basement.

You're really going to need to install a heat exchanger between the open boiler and the internal system, which should be closed and pressurized. Without a pressurized system, any air bubbles that get in will percolate up to that fan convector. Once the loop is "broken," then you no longer have columns of water balancing each other, and you run into that problem with the pump not having enough head to force the water up that high.

All it should take is a heat exchanger, an extra pump, and an automatic feed valve (eg, Watts 911S). And whatever fittings you need to connect that up.

The only way that an open system is realistic to run is when the water line of the system is above the radiation. In other words, if the boiler was on a hill next to the house, so that the second floor fan convector was below (or very close to) the water line of the boiler.

Joe
 
The other idea I had was to either put a second pump onto the arm going upstairs. The i would have one pump drawing the water to the house pushing it through the manifold were the other pump would pick up off the one side of the manifold and the main pump would push the water through the water heater and furnace. The only thing with that is that I don't know if I will have enough flow to keep from starving the other pump or maybe it will take all the water and there won't be any to go to the water heater.

My second senario was to just keep everything in one loop have the water leave the pump go upstairs then through the water heater and furnace then back to the wood stove.
I'm just not sure if that will work.

Anybody have any experence with the myson heaters?
 
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