Progress Hybrid - Shielded Cooktop and screen - diff stove

[binko]

Hollow Hill, did you ever resolve your smoke smell issues?
I helped someone install a new Progress last week and after several fires to break the stove in and cure the paint, sure enough the smoke smell was there just like when I installed ours last year. I had some of the softer gasketing material remaining that is used to replace the gasket on my loading door and replaced it on this one. Smoke smell problem once again eliminated. The dense material that WS uses on the door gasket just doesn't seal well all the way around. It is so stiff that it will not compress enough all the way around to get a good seal.
Those of you who still have a slight smoke smell issue should consider this. Last year I had posted the steps that I used to change out the door gasket. it solved my issues.

 

[HollowHill]

Binko, I still have the smoke smell issue. I regasketted my door yet again this summer with a very soft gray gasket. Did a horrible looking job, but passed dollar bill test, so I moved on. Also regasketted the top gasket when I put on the cooktop. Surprisingly, this has moved the smoke smell! It used to be in the back left corner, now it is in the front left corner. So, I'm guessing that lets the door out as the culprit? I've had so many other issues, this has taken a back seat.

 

[3fordasho]

Binko, I still have the smoke smell issue. I regasketted my door yet again this summer with a very soft gray gasket. Did a horrible looking job, but passed dollar bill test, so I moved on. Also regasketted the top gasket when I put on the cooktop. Surprisingly, this has moved the smoke smell! It used to be in the back left corner, now it is in the front left corner. So, I'm guessing that lets the door out as the culprit? I've had so many other issues, this has taken a back seat.

I've regasketed the door, and the top when the cook top arrived. The replacement door gasket seemed the exact same as the one I took out... neither seems to have resolved my smoke smell issue. Last week it was getting bad and I was about ready to call woodstock again... but then I pulled the cat and found the entry side almost completely plugged with fly ash... I can see how that might cause a smoke smell issue... Resume testing tonight when I fire it back up... the fireview has been performing heating duties the last few days... no smells with it

The smell location is on the door side of the stove - hard to pinpoint if it is the door or somewhere above the door. Never occurs with bypass open. More smell the lower the draft is set.

 

[fire_man]

I used to get the wood smell right after engaging. It's stopped since I insulated the liner. I noticed the secondaries seem to fire off sooner now, I wonder if that makes a difference? Have not smelled it once yet this year.

Same original door gasket and cooktop gasket.

 

[Waulie]

Yes, partially clogged cat or clogged screen seams to be the only time I've gotten a smoke smell and it seems to only happen with an all cat burn. Makes sense since if the secondaries are burning the smoke, there's nothing to smell.

 

[binko]

The fact that the secondaries are active or the cat is active does not prevent smell of pollution. I just means there is a lot less of it.
You still do not want to be inhaling the exhaust even though there is no visible smoke-and yes there would still be a smell to it.

 

[Waulie]

Well ok. What I'm saying is there is no smell for me unless the cat or screen is partially clogged and I'm having a low all-cat burn. I don't believe there is anything leaking out of the stove when the cat and screen are clean. Others' results might vary, but that is my experience.

 

[fire_man]

I agree with Waulie - I got no smoke smell unless it was an all-cat burn, and the smell stopped after I insulated the liner.

I think what happens is that there is naturally less draft during an all cat burn, and since no stove is completely air tight, faint amounts of smoke can leak from weak points - door, cooktop, etc. Once the secondaries kick in, or if you have a decent draft during the all-cat burn, smoke gets exhausted properly and there is no smell.

I think I proved this point because I eliminated the all-cat burn smell after insulating the liner, and made no other changes to the stove.

 

[3fordasho]

Refired the stove after cleaning both the cat and screen (screen is the updated set up) and while it's much better I still get a touch of smoke smell. I'll continue to monitor for a few days of burning before I call woodstock again.. One of there suggestions from Woodstock was to not close the draft so far?? How do I get a good lower output cat /long burn with the draft open further than I want? Was this stove not advertised to have a good range of BTU output?

Well ok. What I'm saying is there is no smell for me unless the cat or screen is partially clogged and I'm having a low all-cat burn. I don't believe there is anything leaking out of the stove when the cat and screen are clean. Others' results might vary, but that is my experience.

 

[Waulie]

Try turning it down slower. Don't worry if the secondaries fire off, it's the way the stove works. I usually engage at about half closed, let that settle in for a while and get flaming real well. Then, notch it down another 25% or so. Let that settle in for a while, and get flaming real well. Then, close it down to completely closed or just a hair open depending on your draft. The secondaries will likely burn for a while, but you will still get great burn times with relatively low overall output.

 

[3fordasho]

Will do. I love the stove but this issue MUST be resolved. I've never had a continuous smoke smell with either fireview and unfortunately there is airflow currents in the house that bring it right up to where we sleep (2nd floor). Even a slight smell is very irritating because it can be there the entire burn until the wood is all coals.

Try turning it down slower. Don't worry if the secondaries fire off, it's the way the stove works. I usually engage at about half closed, let that settle in for a while and get flaming real well. Then, notch it down another 25% or so. Let that settle in for a while, and get flaming real well. Then, close it down to completely closed or just a hair open depending on your draft. The secondaries will likely burn for a while, but you will still get great burn times with relatively low overall output.

 

[fire_man]

3fordasho:

You posted your flue setup in my thread: "Progress - Flue setup vs. user experience" , but I don't see your pipe height mentioned:

Flue: Double wall SS straight out the back through the wall to Tee, 6" Class A (supervent) up 18' inside insulated chase.

If it's not much over 16 feet, I wonder if you should try adding 3' of cheapo pipe to see if the smoke smell improves?

 

[Waulie]

I was wondering about flue height too. 18 feet insulated feet should be good. But I wonder, does the smell go away on colder days?

 

[3fordasho]

I actually had the same thought and ran it by Woodstock. They asked me a few questions (smoke out the door on reloads? -etc) they decided it was not a draft issue and another 3' would not help. I am willing to give it a try but lots of ice and snow on the roof right now :-(

3fordasho:

You posted your flue setup in my thread: "Progress - Flue setup vs. user experience" , but I don't see your pipe height mentioned:

Flue: Double wall SS straight out the back through the wall to Tee, 6" Class A (supervent) up 18' inside insulated chase.

If it's not much over 16 feet, I wonder if you should try adding 3' of cheapo pipe to see if the smoke smell improves?

 

[3fordasho]

I was wondering about flue height too. 18 feet insulated feet should be good. But I wonder, does the smell go away on colder days?

Colder days= more draft = taller flue. This is something I'll check on Thursday- forcast high mid teens, low of 0f. It's been hovering around freezing so far.

 

[3fordasho]

Binko, I still have the smoke smell issue. I regasketted my door yet again this summer with a very soft gray gasket. Did a horrible looking job, but passed dollar bill test, so I moved on. Also regasketted the top gasket when I put on the cooktop. Surprisingly, this has moved the smoke smell! It used to be in the back left corner, now it is in the front left corner. So, I'm guessing that lets the door out as the culprit? I've had so many other issues, this has taken a back seat.

Quick question about the very soft gray gasket- is it significantly different looking than the standard white glass fiber rope looking door gasket? The replacement stuff I got was identical looking to what I took out. It was real fun getting it to compress enough to latch the door...

 

[HollowHill]

Quick question about the very soft gray gasket- is it significantly different looking than the standard white glass fiber rope looking door gasket? The replacement stuff I got was identical looking to what I took out. It was real fun getting it to compress enough to latch the door...

Yeah, it was very different looking than the white stuff. It's grey and super scrunchable. I'll look the next time I do a reload, but that's my recollection. Had a TERRIBLE time relatching the door, ended up moving the stove inadvertently because we were applying so much pressure to try to close the door. Finally did get it closed, but in the process, all the gasket is scrunched on the inside on the hinge side. I don't have the "part of the gasket on each side" scenario on that side of the door.

Did I mention I HATE regasketting the door Puts me in a bad mood for months when I know I've got to do that.

 

[charly]

OK, I've settled down with the stove and it's operating like a champ. Just had to adjust my concept of temps to run at. 450 - 500 it is really cranking out the heat from the front. Life is good. As far as the cooktop, I've only used it once and was surprised how quickly it heated up a pot of chili given that I'd just reloaded the stove from a cool start. Impressed. Can't wait to use it more! So, I don't think the shielding has had a deleterious affect on it. I'll try to IR temps at some point when things slow down for a minute.

Glad to hear things are back to normal

 

[Slow1]

Yeah, it was very different looking than the white stuff. It's grey and super scrunchable. I'll look the next time I do a reload, but that's my recollection. Had a TERRIBLE time relatching the door, ended up moving the stove inadvertently because we were applying so much pressure to try to close the door. Finally did get it closed, but in the process, all the gasket is scrunched on the inside on the hinge side. I don't have the "part of the gasket on each side" scenario on that side of the door.

Did I mention I HATE regasketting the door Puts me in a bad mood for months when I know I've got to do that.

Hmm... I just got my kit a week or so ago from WS - the larger looking grey gasket and a huge tube of cement(?). I have never actually re-gasketed a door so this will be my first time and I'm already not looking forward to it. Reading these experiences and the fact that it doesn't necessarily fix the smoke smell makes me wonder if it is worth the bother. I have a fear of screwing it up and not being able to burn until I get another kit and learn how to do it right... seems simple enough, but....

 

[binko]

Re-gasketing the door takes about 10 minutes and is simple as can be. I have done 2 Progress Stoves now and in both cases it solved the smoky smell issue completely.
What I did was remove the old gasket and any cement in the gasket channel. Then I used 2 gaskets to replace it. The reason for using 2 is to have a more pillowy surface there that can be compressed when it meets the stove's mating surface. For the inner gasket I used a 1/4" diameter soft material, lightly glued into the door channel. This gives the next gasket a higher starting point so that it will stick out further. Next I took a 1/2" diameter gasket material and lightly glued it right on top of the thinner gasket. When I was placing it I puffed it up a bit by pushing it against itself ( Hard to explain, but if you pull both ends of the gasket it gets thinner- you want to do the opposite to get it thicker). Be sure you are using a soft material gasket (not the hard material that the original is made of). After gluing, I closed the door shortly thereafter (10 minutes). You will find that even though this setup is thicker and the gasket sticks further out of the channel (this is what you want) the door will be easier to close because this compresses easily. My smoke smells were immediately solved. If anyone has questions, feel free to give me a call 973-479-5010.

 

[chipsoflyin]

i still get the smell too, post door gasket c/o

 

[Waulie]

That's great info, Binko. Have you told Woodstock? You might want to edit out your phone number from your post though. You could have people PM you if they want instead. You never know who's reading the forums.

 

[binko]

Good point Waulie. I don't know how to edit it out now.

 

[fire_man]

Hmm... I just got my kit a week or so ago from WS - the larger looking grey gasket and a huge tube of cement(?). I have never actually re-gasketed a door so this will be my first time and I'm already not looking forward to it. Reading these experiences and the fact that it doesn't necessarily fix the smoke smell makes me wonder if it is worth the bother. I have a fear of screwing it up and not being able to burn until I get another kit and learn how to do it right... seems simple enough, but....

I'm surprised your recently built stove did not come with the fluffy gasket, if that's the fix WS recommends. Maybe they don't recommend it unless someone has the problem?

 

[3fordasho]

Several quick questions: Did both size gaskets come from woodstock? Gasket adhesive? Is the adhesive in the large caulk style tube and whitish/grey in color and gritty?

Re-gasketing the door takes about 10 minutes and is simple as can be. I have done 2 Progress Stoves now and in both cases it solved the smoky smell issue completely.
What I did was remove the old gasket and any cement in the gasket channel. Then I used 2 gaskets to replace it. The reason for using 2 is to have a more pillowy surface there that can be compressed when it meets the stove's mating surface. For the inner gasket I used a 1/4" diameter soft material, lightly glued into the door channel. This gives the next gasket a higher starting point so that it will stick out further. Next I took a 1/2" diameter gasket material and lightly glued it right on top of the thinner gasket. When I was placing it I puffed it up a bit by pushing it against itself ( Hard to explain, but if you pull both ends of the gasket it gets thinner- you want to do the opposite to get it thicker). Be sure you are using a soft material gasket (not the hard material that the original is made of). After gluing, I closed the door shortly thereafter (10 minutes). You will find that even though this setup is thicker and the gasket sticks further out of the channel (this is what you want) the door will be easier to close because this compresses easily. My smoke smells were immediately solved. If anyone has questions, feel free to give me a call 973-479-5010.