well he did a bad job because he didn't seal the top plate to the top of the chimney he didn't back up the clamp with rivets he didn't insulate and didn't put in a blockoff plate as well as pulling it to tight or cutting it to short or what ever he did wrong there. In my mind all that makes it a bad install.
Pro install screw up or common problem
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Three strikes and Top Notch Chimney is out. First the failure now Tuesday they had to reschedule and today a no show. I called and would one guess they will call me Monday to reschedule. All I can say is I gave them a chance to make it right now I'm looking for a refund. I've said it before this is just one company, but this is one to avoid. On top of this I already paid for a Groupon for a sweep of my oil burner flue as I don't have the right brush but I cant even redeem that as they keep blowing me off.
When I do fix it myself how far down should I insulate with Roxul from the cap? Any specific sealant recommendations? Thanks to the good guys for the tips on how to do it right.
When I do fix it myself how far down should I insulate with Roxul from the cap? Any specific sealant recommendations? Thanks to the good guys for the tips on how to do it right.
Well I think the liner should be insulated the whole way. I know this is a point of contention here but in my experience it improves draft and reduces buildup. As well as several possible safety issues. As far as sealant we usually just use silicone. Don't forget to seal the bottom to.
Can anyone provide a picture or diagram explaining exactly what the top plate is and where this seal should be with the chimney so I can check my recent install?
Here are a couple examples of top plates. They vary according to the installation. Most big liner company sites have detailed instructions.The seal is on the bottom of the top plate, where it meets the tile chimney liner or chimney crown.
![[Hearth.com] Pro install screw up or common problem](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/156/156968-7f771af41978093688f2fbb39ac292f0.jpg?hash=Ep5C-Nd4dJ "[Hearth.com] Pro install screw up or common problem")
![[Hearth.com] Pro install screw up or common problem](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/156/156969-836f43c6588f2d9d94f92160330ce95a.jpg?hash=ldTNjlgOF9 "[Hearth.com] Pro install screw up or common problem")
If you fix it yourself you will need a flex coupler that looks like the one below and a short section of flex:
(broken image removed)
You will probably have to pull the liner up and out a bit to attach the coupler and the short section of flex, I would recommend having a helper.
(broken image removed)
You will probably have to pull the liner up and out a bit to attach the coupler and the short section of flex, I would recommend having a helper.
I still have to climb and check if my top plate is sealed but if it isn't why should it be sealed? Those plates look like they overhang enough to act like eaves and direct any water away from the chimney crown.
It should be sealed to keep moisture, rain, bugs, etc. out of the chimney and to keep warm air in the chimney. The top caps with the bent down edges do the best job at this.
My top cap is the terra cotta top plate design that has deep sides which overhang the chimney crown by 3/4" on all sides. The top plate sits on top of the chimney and I don't think there is much gap at the contact point to caulk. It would be a reach to lay a bead inside the deep sides where the plate rests.
The installer didn't caulk between the two an I'm think the terra cotta plate provides the most weather blockage.
Yeah I didn't caulk my terra cotta top plates. No need for it. When I was using the flat top plates I caulked them.
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