Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing or Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc ???

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Long story,short, all the problems with starter pawls !! Big fat starter rope, with a big fat knot, installed improperly, hitting pawls ,causing them to engage while running :rolleyes: ,more on that later
Sorry for all the problems HD ! That stinks ! It is a good saw for the price I hope it works. I would be happy to come look it over and see if I can help !

Pete
 
Sorry you had a lot of problems - hope you get 'er running right!
 
I was looking for a guide bar plate and it looks like there is two ,one inside ,one out side, is that right ???
Some one said that some people throw these away , cuz they serve no purpose.
 
Thanks for the sentiments
Got parts from seller, inner cover,and pawls
Like I said it had a large rope on it (not the size you see on a chainsaw) so the knot was hitting on the pawls.
I replaced the cord,and it's working now.
I installed new rope as U see in middle pic, the fat rope was installed like the right pic.

[Hearth.com] Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing or Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc ???
 
Are you trying to mount the clutch cover/brake with your new bar?

Sorry this is such a hassle...... but you have to have the large mount (post 98).

I've been there before where it feels like a saw is cursed.
 
(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-36-3120XP-WORKSHOP-MANUAL-/271076935761?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item3f1d71c851)
I bought this last summer.$25 for a exact complete copy of same manual used at dealers & saw repair shops.Covers 22 different models.

Only needed it for a couple minor questions but its one of the best investments I ever made.Manuals are available for other models from this Seller & others too.
 
It's just taking time to straighten it all out,Plus I never dealt with/worked on chainsaws much before .
It seemed to run good (when I had it running ) but, then I found the chain was binding and I couldn't adjust tension, so I haven't started it cuz I didn't think I should run it without a bar & chain.
The clutch cover/brake is what really bothers me cuz it doesn't make sense, and I don't know what my next step is, maybe take to the shop.
I don't like to do that . I fix everything on my own,I don't take my vehicles, to a shop
I knew the saw didn't have a brake, and didn't expect a good chain, but did expect it to run good,start good and have a 20" bar as stated.
Once I get some sawdust in my pants I'll be happy ;lol How does it get there;? :confused:
 
(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-36-3120XP-WORKSHOP-MANUAL-/271076935761?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item3f1d71c851)
I bought this last summer.$25 for a exact complete copy of same manual used at dealers & saw repair shops.Covers 22 different models.

Only needed it for a couple minor questions but its one of the best investments I ever made.Manuals are available for other models from this Seller & others too.

Now your talkin , I Have A Factory Service Manual for each of my vehicles, from 3000 to 6000 pages some on DVD
 
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Are you trying to mount the clutch cover/brake with your new bar?
Missed this question before.
No ,I was trying to mount the clutch cover/brake with old bar on
 
Now It's between this one Stihl 034, (broken link removed to http://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/3435682246.html),
and this one, HUSQVARNA MODEL 61
(broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-MODEL-61-CHAINSAW-WITH-20-BAR-PERFECT-RUNNING-SAW-61CCS-/121029799213?pt=US_Chainsaws&hash=item1c2df02d2d)

Hold off till you can get a few extra cc's. The original 40 cc you posted may not have enough juice.
 
I bought this After Market, Sprocket Cover with Brake for the 61, but It is very very hard to pull back ,then after it's pulled back( disengage brake) and it's on my saw ,the brake handle is to close to the saw handle.When I say, the brake handle is to close to the saw handle, I mean it's like 1/2 to 3/4 inch away from saw handle.

I am returning it for a refund.

I could get one from baileys ,maybe it would work right on the saw but , a guy on arborist forum says, he has an original cover with metal brake bar in good shape,he says, the rest of the saw needs to much work, so I my get that .:)

Got the new ,correct fit,Pro Lite, large mount 20" bar on the way with another 72LGX chain for $50 :)
 
Alrighty, just an update if you wanted to know, I got The new bar for the 61 , and it fits right, Now I have a functioning saw, :cool::):) I didn't fire it up because it was 10:00 PM
I still have to get the Bar plates though
 
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I fired it up today and ,I thought I had the starter pawls straightened out but NO. something is not right ,while it's running it's making sparks and the the rope starts coming out some, It appears like the metal part of the starter reel that engages the pawls ,is actually rubbing on the fly wheel but I don't know why .
The cover and reel are from a 266 so I don't know if that has any thing to do with it or not. Maybe there is something missing on the starter reel but, doesn't look like it to me.
It seems like The round metal deal with the 2 notches in it, is to long, or maybe there is a different fly wheel , that's causing a problem IDK
Very hard to see in there when U set the cover on.
Any one got an ideas , why that deal/ cog, would be rubbing on the fly wheel.
I will get some pics. , so you all can see and maybe U can see something I don't.
This saw is pissin me off :mad: but, It does start and run good, I had it running long enough to cut up a 6ft log, and love the full chisel chain,:) first one I have used

After thought , maybe the diameter of starter cog is wrong, I'm just guessing here, but the pawls keep getting screwed up ,stuck, and spring broke once
 
This is the info I found out about this problem

The round metal piece with the 2 notches is too long. This is common with this series of saws(61,266,268,272) when you mix and match from the original. I've dealt with this many times. You can probably grind a little off the end to fix your problem. Sometimes what happens is the plastic air defector can make the difference. On early models the deflector did not fit under the starter mounting screw area and on later models like the 268,272 the deflector fit under the starter completely and in effect moved the starter away from the flywheel by the width of the deflector.

Usually when you have a setup like you have,the starter won't retract because it's so pressed into the flywheel and can't move freely. Someone could have changed the reel from the original,who knows. Should be easy enough to fix.


Boy , this maple seems to burn nice n hot, and long
 
Well now that you've fix just about every part of the saw.
You are a chain saw guru. ;)

My 61 has several missing parts, some I've taped together, epoxy, safety wire, paper clips.
& some it works with out them. Still running but a back up saw now.

Your saw sounds to be in good (better) shape.
Good job & you learned allot :)
 
Yes I have learned a lot but, not just about that saw, I have gained an immense amount of knowledge on every thing related to acquiring, and heating with wood, thanks to you all on here :) Fixed up my old eager beaver too , which has been doing all the work so far.
Aside from the problems, That 61 starts up easy and runs great, and like I said, I did get a chance to try out the full chisel chain and, It doesn't play around, pulls some good chips out fast, love it==c:cool:

Edit , I also contacted the seller and he is sending me another starter ,and he also suggested, in the mean time that I grind some off the starter cup so I could be using the saw
 
As far as the original question...when i was looking for a saw, we had just had 3 large dead aspens cut down by a tree service and I had them leave the rounds for the backyard fire pit (no stove back then) i chose the Husqvarna 137 and it worked well for those rounds and for other odd jobs around the yard. I posted questions about it on a website for chainsaw enthusiasts and got a lot of nasty replies like "it's just a little underpowered orange Poulan". Etc.... I did not let them discourage me, and i will tell the truth, that little saw takes one heck of a beating!! It is 4 years old and i have used it more this year than previously, but it just keeps on chewing that wood up. I have used it on trunks and rounds that i know i should use a larger saw on but i just took my time and let the saw do its thing. I have gotten my moneys worth out of this saw and then some. So moral of the story is, get what feels right for you and be happy with what your saw can do
 
Been over to AS have you? Good on you for not getting discouraged, it may be a smaller/cheaper saw, but if it does the job, it's a good saw. A C
 
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Well I went out and messed around with the saw again, and ground down the starter cup, well that's not the problem.

The starter cup is actually hitting on the inside of the starter pawls, and grinding some off of them and screwing up the springs.

I measured with calipers the diameter of the starter cup , and the distance between the pawls, the ends where they attach and there is only like 15 thousands clearance there , and there is a slop in the starter reel side to side , so with vibration the starter cup is hitting the starter pawls while running
.
You can see in the picture where the starter cup has removed metal from the Pawl , and the pawl beside it that has not been installed on this saw yet .The pawl on the saw has even more metal removed.

[Hearth.com] Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing or Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc ???[Hearth.com] Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing or Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc ???
 
I ground down the diameter of the starter cup , got her working, and YOU SEE put her to work :) :cool: >> ::-)

[Hearth.com] Poulan® 18 in. 40 cc Wild Thing or Husqvarna 235 16-Inch 34.4cc ???
 
Perseverance pays off ;ex

I think you'll find your efforts paid off. Should be a great firewood saw.
 
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