Thanks for the link, although I don't believe this is the problem since it happens even on very still days.BLIMP said:http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/wind.htm
Thanks for the link, although I don't believe this is the problem since it happens even on very still days.BLIMP said:http://www.woodheat.org/chimneys/wind.htm
BLIMP said:is chimney liner insulated?
BLIMP said:is chimney liner insulated?
Good thought, but it sure is.Patapsco Mike said:I was just going to ask the same question...
My guess is that in this case, excessive draft is not the problem; it seems like not enough draft, but only with the CAT engaged. I would guess that it may be more of a problem with the stove (I still haven't ruled out operator error).ddown said:I found my problems with my stoves although not backpuffing per say but were caused by excess draft and the stove keeping up to the draft. Pipe damper smoothed everything out only need it several times a year.
Thanks for the suggestion; I'll take a look at that tonight.Diabel said:I would remove the back shield remove the small thermo. shield & see if it is shut closed (when the stove is cold)... it could be your problem. The only way I have experienced back puffing with these stoves is when you cut back the air too fast while in the secondary mode.
Tried kiln dried wood with mine. Backpuffing no matter how slowly the air was backed down, and sometimes without even backing it down at all. Believe me, I tried everything as far as operational variables. I'm a scientist/engineer with decades of R&D experience, and I know how to study multiple variables and their impact. Our VC was a 23 year failed experiment.Diabel said:VC stoves will back puff more than others due to design (this is from what I have read here) but with properly seasoned wood & gradual air reduction it should not back puff at all.
grommal said:Tried kiln dried wood with mine. Backpuffing no matter how slowly the air was backed down, and sometimes without even backing it down at all. Believe me, I tried everything as far as operational variables. I'm a scientist/engineer with decades of R&D experience, and I know how to study multiple variables and their impact. Our VC was a 23 year failed experiment.Diabel said:VC stoves will back puff more than others due to design (this is from what I have read here) but with properly seasoned wood & gradual air reduction it should not back puff at all.
Diabel said:grommal said:Tried kiln dried wood with mine. Backpuffing no matter how slowly the air was backed down, and sometimes without even backing it down at all. Believe me, I tried everything as far as operational variables. I'm a scientist/engineer with decades of R&D experience, and I know how to study multiple variables and their impact. Our VC was a 23 year failed experiment.Diabel said:VC stoves will back puff more than others due to design (this is from what I have read here) but with properly seasoned wood & gradual air reduction it should not back puff at all.
Hm....these stoves (defiants) are all built the same the only difference is each flue set up....therefore perhaps the flue is responsible for this...
Thanks for the suggestion; I'm surprised the sweep didn't mention it. Any idea on what this costs for a two foot extension? The only potential issue is one of aesthetics; I currently have a flat slate slap on top of the chimney; I suppose the extendaflue would need a standard cap?BeGreen said:Maybe add an extendaflue instead? That would be much less expensive.
BeGreen said:Up there, does it even need to be class A? Cheap fix would be add 2 ft of rigid stainless liner.
Doesn't it need to be insulated? It may not look great to see a metal pipe sticking above the chimney, which has some nice stonework.fossil said:You can extend your flue 2' without building the masonry chimney higher for a whole lot less than $2K, so long as you don't mind seeing a couple feet of Class A chimney pipe (either galvanized or polished stainless) sticking up above the top of the existing masonry. Rick
ETA: As usual, BeGreen was a step ahead of me.
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