It's odd that your stove used to burn too hot, but now seems to have the opposite problem. I'm assuming this is the same stove and flue. Has anything changed in the set-up from those older posts -- stove modification, wood supply, flue, other appliances -- when it seemed like your problems might have been too much air flow rather than too little?
Possible draft problem.
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No stove modification, same wood supply, the flue is the same.
The only thing that has changed is that I plugged a lot of air leaks in my office. The office is 10 feet from the stove. So maybe the air supply was reduced and that is why I am having a problem.
Have you been feeling a little lightheaded lately? 
I say that half-jokingly. You do have a CO detector in the stove area, right? When was the last time you checked to see if cracking a window slightly made a difference?
I say that half-jokingly. You do have a CO detector in the stove area, right? When was the last time you checked to see if cracking a window slightly made a difference?
Yes I have one 10 feet from the stove above my office door.
And I also have on on the top of stairs just a precaution.
When was the last time you checked to see if cracking a window slightly made a difference?
Not lately because it is to cold outside. Today it is 16F outside.
I also forgot to mention the basement is fully insulated to R10 with foam.
When was the last time you checked to see if cracking a window slightly made a difference?
I just left the basement door opened about an inch. Not really making a big difference on the fire. So now I am real puzzled.
Is it possible that the chimney is clogged with something coming from the stove
I just left the basement door opened about an inch. Not really making a big difference on the fire. So now I am real puzzled.
Is it possible that the chimney is clogged with something coming from the stove
Possible, yes, particularly if the wood is not ideal. The horizontal section of the pipe and the top cap would be possible areas getting blocked up.
Charles1981
Minister of Fire
I will check the horizontal pipe when the stove cools down. I took my binoculars and did see the top cap being clogged.
My Wife did admit that she burned a lot of paper and cardboard last week. Could that be part of the problem?
It may take a closer inspection of the screen. Last year our screen plugged and I didn't see it with the binocs.
Yes, check the horiz. section. And while there make sure it is pitched uphill toward the chimney by at least 1/4" per ft.
Yes, check the horiz. section. And while there make sure it is pitched uphill toward the chimney by at least 1/4" per ft.
I was going to go on the roof today but I noticed some ice so no good. Hopefully I can get up there in the next few days
Nope the pitch is going in the opposite direction because I screwed up when I installed it. Maybe I should break the mortar in the spring and reinstall it correctly.
Another possibility could be related to your connection from the stovepipe to the liner. You show the pipe going through the thimble and meeting the liner at a "T", which you picture extending down past that point.
Is the pipe connected to the liner with a chimney liner T connector? Looking at that connection and below, is the liner capped airtight at the bottom? Do you have a clean-out door at the base of the chimney that you use when cleaning the liner? Just wondering if you remove and replace a bottom cap when cleaning, and if air is diluting your draft by entering the system via some leak at or below the T.
Consider also, if you have been burning slow, smoldering fires you might have considerable buildup since cleaning two months ago. You could also have fly ash from burning paper and such. If a combination of ash and creosote is building up at the base of the liner, it could accumulate deeply enough to partially obstruct the flue.
BTW, if you have no top plate, what is keeping air/moisture from getting down through the insulation around the liner where it exits the chimney top? I assume the liner came with a top plate. You must have something on top of that insulation to cover it, no?
Is the pipe connected to the liner with a chimney liner T connector? Looking at that connection and below, is the liner capped airtight at the bottom? Do you have a clean-out door at the base of the chimney that you use when cleaning the liner? Just wondering if you remove and replace a bottom cap when cleaning, and if air is diluting your draft by entering the system via some leak at or below the T.
Consider also, if you have been burning slow, smoldering fires you might have considerable buildup since cleaning two months ago. You could also have fly ash from burning paper and such. If a combination of ash and creosote is building up at the base of the liner, it could accumulate deeply enough to partially obstruct the flue.
BTW, if you have no top plate, what is keeping air/moisture from getting down through the insulation around the liner where it exits the chimney top? I assume the liner came with a top plate. You must have something on top of that insulation to cover it, no?
ding ding! That for sure will cause a problem by slowing down the flue gases. Smoke does not like to go downhill. This must be fixed. If you switch to 45s inside as shown it will correct this problem. Or in the least, take some metal off of the 33" vertical pipe coming off the stove in order to accomplish good pitch uphill toward the chimney.
But doesn't fully explain the immediate worsening of performance, since it seems the stove was formerly working much better even with that existing flaw. Most likely the pipe is crapped up, too?
I guess I misunderstood about the top plate. This is the liner I got. The one on the left. It was sold to me by chimneysweeponline.com. (broken link removed to http://www.chimneysweeponline.com/foreverflex.htm)
I just checked the pitch it is 1 inch per feet in the opposite direction.
I will take care of the pitch in the next few days when my Spouse is not home so I can let the stove cool down. So I learned a valuable lesson today: the small stuff can have big consequence on the end result.
would this do: http://www.homedepot.com/p/DuraVent...ingle-Wall-Chimney-Stove-Pipe-1645/202269770#
if not any suggestions.
I'm not sure what the original pipe was, double or single wall, DuraVent or other brand. Match the brand pipe for best fit. If this elbow is a match then yes, that is correct.
It is single pipe stove. I also found out today by looking at this : http://woodheat.org/flue-pipe-installation.html
that all my black pipe is installed backwards. So that needs to be changed too. What a learning curve. At least i am making progress in the right direction.
The crimped end faces the stove. This is why we ask for pictures of an installation. There are a lot of small details that add up to a successful installation.
I know that now. When I did this 5 or 6 years ago I had not clue on what I was doing but I am glad I am doing what I am doing it is making my house safer. Just surprise the inspector and the insurance company did not spot all this. I guess not even the professional are perfect.
Sounds like the air intake lever on the stove could be broken. That would explain how the wood would lite off opening the stove door. And why it has worked for 5 previous yrs without this issue.
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