Plumbing question

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Bad Wolf

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jun 13, 2008
523
Eastern CT
I'm picking up my Tarm on Saturday and in order to minimize the amount of time I'll be with out heat I'm dry fitting as much piping as I can now. I'm running 1.25" black iron pipe for the main loop per Tarms layout. Are there any minimum distances between 90's and tee's? I don't have a lot of room so I'm going as short as I can between tee's and pumps and elbows.
Also what the best way to seal all the joints so I don't get leaks. Joint compound only or tape as well?

Any other points to remember? With luck I'll have a fire going by Sunday evening.

Thanks

Greg H
 
I say no, unless Tarm has specific recommendations...also don't know how you are laying out you system eiether. As far as pipe dope, I like Rectorseal #5, or Megaloc...watch out for funky threads on offshore-made fittings though. If you have any leaks, disassemble and use both tape/dope.....and don't forget the unions for quick disassembly if the need arises.
 
Thanks, I was looking for general plumbing knowledge, things like don't install a Tee within "X" inches of an elbow or another Tee. I'm going to give Tarm a call today with a few more questions. I'll probabaly get some more unions just to make it easier. I've got some Rectorseal #5 and lots of tape.
 
maybe this is a problem, maybe not... I wonder if dry fitting too much threaded pipe could be a problem. I think there is a good chance that when you put on tape and tighten very tight with wrenches you might find that the spacing is different than when it was laid out dry. I was afraid of this so I did my whole piping by just doing small sections at a time and buying parts for each section as i went along.
 
Just got to the Grundfos pump and it says " If possible do not install elbows, branch tees, and similar fittings just before or after the pump". I was going to use a 3" nipple then go to a tee. Is that too close? What qualifies as just before? 2"? 4"? 8"? 12"?

Also how tight do you go? Snug or temple bursting tight? I get concerned that I can't make one more 360 to get the fitting lined up then I'll have to back it off 3/4 turn.

Thanks
 
Greg H said:
Just got to the grundfos pump and it says " If possible so not install elbows, branch tees, and similar fittings just before or after the pump". I was going to use a 3" nipple then go to a tee. Is that too close? What qualifies as just before? 2"? 4"? 8"? 12"?

Also how tight do you go? Snug or temple bursting tight? I get concerned that I can't make one more 360 to get the fitting lined up then I'll have to back it off 3/4 turn.

Thanks

I think I remember a rule of thumb from somewhere that you supposedly do not want to install any fitting that would create major back-pressure or turbulence within about 8-12 pipe diameters' length of the inlet or outlet of the pump, as the resulting turblulence apparently messes with the efficiency of the pump.

on turning in threaded fittings, I always puzzle with the same question that you mention - and if anyone has some suggestions, I'll be glad to hear
 
Is the distance to pump rule less significant in a closed system? I'm working on my install and have 90s planned for within six inches of both sides of my supply side pump.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.