piping help

[saturn13]

So I want to move my Little Buck Stove to my basement. Is there any way I can vent this out on the outside wall? The tank and all seen in the pics are going.

 

[HomeinPA]

Do you have a chimney?
Are you planning on building a chimney?
What's behind the duct tape area?
What do you plan to vent it with?
What's the wall made of?
What's on the other side of the wall?
What's the measurement from floor to ceiling?
How far up the wall is grade?
What's outside the house?
How close are other structures?
How much overhang on the roof?
Are there windows above grade where the chimney will run?

Have you called anyone, maybe a chimney sweep or mason, to look at this for you?

God love ya, it's not just as simple as punchin' a hole in the wall and stickin' a pipe out there. Well, if you do it right it's not.

 

[saturn13]

Do you have a chimney?
Are you planning on building a chimney?
What's behind the duct tape area?
What do you plan to vent it with?
What's the wall made of?
What's on the other side of the wall?
What's the measurement from floor to ceiling?
How far up the wall is grade?
What's outside the house?
How close are other structures?
How much overhang on the roof?
Are there windows above grade where the chimney will run?

Have you called anyone, maybe a chimney sweep or mason, to look at this for you?

God love ya, it's not just as simple as punchin' a hole in the wall and stickin' a pipe out there. Well, if you do it right it's not.

So yes there is a Chinney and flue that extends to the basement, but right now there is a gas water heater venting into it. I guess I can drop a liner down but it was a tight squeeze, I probably can only get a 6 inch liner down and I have the 8 inch adapter and liner on it now, not sure if I can reduce down.

There is a window just like in the picture here. The wall and floor are concrete 6ft wall up to the window. Then a 2ft overhang to go up the side of the house, and then the roof had about 2ft overhang. As far as venting looking for any suggestions as I haven't bought anything yet, I want to see if it's possible.

Thanks

 

[HomeinPA]

Initially I'd say take out the window and lay a 9" terracotta crock in the center of the opening that sits 1" through the wall on both sides and brick in the rest of the window. Dig out about 18" down outside and install a window well so you have access room to the class-a pipe and install the chimney and roof flashing . Inside you'll need a heat shield above the class-a and you'll have to use close clearance/double wall stovepipe down to the stove. Depending on the rating of the pipe you'll need 6-12" above the pipe.

 

[saturn13]

Initially I'd say take out the window and lay a 9" terracotta crock in the center of the opening that sits 1" through the wall on both sides and brick in the rest of the window. Dig out about 18" down outside and install a window well so you have access room to the class-a pipe and install the chimney and roof flashing . Inside you'll need a heat shield above the class-a and you'll have to use close clearance/double wall stovepipe down to the stove. Depending on the rating of the pipe you'll need 6-12" above the pipe.

So the crock is basically for protection and holding the pipe in place? How about piping out of the well/window area turn up at a 45 degree angle till i get past the roof line then go straight up? I added a picture of what I believe you are saying.

 

[HomeinPA]

Bottom has to be a T with cleanout and then properly bracketed to the wall going up.. That is way to much angle and would not work. If your overhang is that big then you'll need to go through the soffit and roof.

 

[saturn13]

Bottom has to be a T with cleanout and then properly bracketed to the wall going up.. That is way to much angle and would not work. If your overhang is that big then you'll need to go through the soffit and roof.

The bottom of the straight section going along the house needs the T correct? Once through the window the house over hangs about 2 feet, then up the side of the house and then the roof extends out about 2 feet.

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[HomeinPA]

The bottom of the straight section going along the house needs the T correct? Once through the window the house over hangs about 2 feet, then up the side of the house and then the roof extends out about 2 feet.

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OUTSIDE the window, T - horizontal opening facing house, bottom gets a T-cap, top gets first vertical section of pipe. Class-A needs to be at least 2" from structure. Then you need a piece of pipe to go through the crock into the room at least 4 inches or whatever mfg. instructions require.

 

[chasechimney]

OUTSIDE the window, T - horizontal opening facing house, bottom gets a T-cap, top gets first vertical section of pipe. Class-A needs to be at least 2" from structure. Then you need a piece of pipe to go through the crock into the room at least 4 inches or whatever mfg. instructions require.

You don't need a crock . Class A runs into the house thru the wall thimble - minimum 6" ...

 

[HomeinPA]

You don't need a crock . Class A runs into the house thru the wall thimble - minimum 6" ...

You're right. You could do a half-assed job and just shove it through the glass.

Follow my instructions and you'll have a properly installed class-a and it will have a nice finished look.

 

[begreen]

Initially I'd say take out the window and lay a 9" terracotta crock in the center of the opening that sits 1" through the wall on both sides and brick in the rest of the window. Dig out about 18" down outside and install a window well so you have access room to the class-a pipe and install the chimney and roof flashing . Inside you'll need a heat shield above the class-a and you'll have to use close clearance/double wall stovepipe down to the stove. Depending on the rating of the pipe you'll need 6-12" above the pipe.

If bricking in the window why wouldn't one run class A off the tee through the now removed window and brick that in?

 

[bholler]

You're right. You could do a half-assed job and just shove it through the glass.

Follow my instructions and you'll have a properly installed class-a and it will have a nice finished look.

Using the proper components supplied by the chimney manufacturer is not a half asses job at all. Neither is your way as long as you are sugesting running class a through that crock which i am assuimg you are. Either way works fine and looks good.

 

[HomeinPA]

Using the proper components supplied by the chimney manufacturer is not a half asses job at all. Neither is your way as long as you are sugesting running class a through that crock which i am assuimg you are. Either way works fine and looks good.

No, but in this case, as the OP presented it, to get a nice finished surface a crock would be the way to go. Not just laying the class-a on the sill and then bricking it in. In this particular instance a wall thimble is not needed as it's all masonry. There is no framed wall to go through and I didn't suggest framing the window in. However, if you did go that route then yes, you would need a wall thimble.

 

[HomeinPA]

If bricking in the window why wouldn't one run class A off the tee through the now removed window and brick that in?

Just the way I do it. It gives a nicer finished look and if you had to pull the class-a for some reason all you'd have to do is pull it through and stuff a stainless T-cap cover in the hole.

 

[chasechimney]

You're right. You could do a half-assed job and just shove it through the glass.

Follow my instructions and you'll have a properly installed class-a and it will have a nice finished look.

Ha You run the class A thru a wall thimble - there's your finished you . Find me any install directions on class A where it shows it running thru a crock .

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[begreen]

Just the way I do it. It gives a nicer finished look and if you had to pull the class-a for some reason all you'd have to do is pull it through and stuff a stainless T-cap cover in the hole.

I've never seen a job done this way. My preference would be to run class A through the wall. No need for a wall thimble here. There are no clearances to protect from. My main concern would be with the connector having proper clearances above it.

 

[saturn13]

Ok, not sure which way I'm going to go. I had my furnace changed last January and went from oil to gas. When that was done they vented out the side of the house but my water heater is still vented into the flue. I believe the water heater can be vented into the same pipe the furnace does freeing up the flue. Then I can connect right to the flue. I had this checked in October and the flue is in good shape. I'd probably use a different unit like a wood furnace that has a 6 inch exhaust, which I think I just need to pipe the connection to the flue? Or I can send down a stainless steel liner which would be a pain, it's a tight space and curves slightly at the bottom of the flue.

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[snaple4]

Don't connect the water heater to the furnace flue. Dangerous! Also, if you have a wood stove down there with them then you need to make certain you have enough fresh combustion air entering the room to prevent back draft.

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[HomeinPA]

Ok, not sure which way I'm going to go. I had my furnace changed last January and went from oil to gas. When that was done they vented out the side of the house but my water heater is still vented into the flue. I believe the water heater can be vented into the same pipe the furnace does freeing up the flue. Then I can connect right to the flue. I had this checked in October and the flue is in good shape. I'd probably use a different unit like a wood furnace that has a 6 inch exhaust, which I think I just need to pipe the connection to the flue? Or I can send down a stainless steel liner which would be a pain, it's a tight space and curves slightly at the bottom of the flue.

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If I'm interpreting you correctly, your furnace is a high efficiency unit that vents out the side of the house? Is it plastic pipe or power vented? If it's plastic then the water heater would not be able to connect to it. If power vented then the unit would need to be rated for combined btu's.

If the chimney needs lined you could/would use a flexible stainless liner that would go around the bends if the opening is large enough.

 

[saturn13]

so the furnace is high efficency. Thanks for all the info.

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[HomeinPA]

I've never seen a job done this way. My preference would be to run class A through the wall. No need for a wall thimble here. There are no clearances to protect from. My main concern would be with the connector having proper clearances above it.

Well, before I started my own business I hadn't seen a chimney properly insulated to code so.....

It really has nothing to do with clearances, it's for appearance. The reason I do it is because you can't chisel a perfectly round hole in cement or block to put the class-a through (at least I can't) and cement or mortar doesn't bond to stainless steel. I cut the hole, slide in the terracotta as a sleeve and then slide the class-a through. The mortar bonds to the terracotta and finishes nicely and then the very thin gap around the class-a is sealed with a fireblock sealant or silicone.

I addressed his potential issue with the ceiling clearances by suggesting double wall pipe and/or heat shield, whichever provided the required clearances.

 

[Mark8]

Is there any way to run the pipe straight up through the first level floor straight out the roof, the pipe would radiate heat into your house. Has that ever been done, just wondering if that could be done.

 

[HomeinPA]

so the furnace is high efficency. Thanks for all the info.

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As mentioned, you can't vent the gas and wood in the same flue. I've had customers switch out their gas water heaters for electric to free up the flue if the water heater was getting older and they absolutely didn't want to install either a masonry or class-a chimney.