smokinj said:
That's what I hate too, it gets all over everything. If I happen to come across an easy score of Pine I'll take it, but won't go out of my way for it.
Pine: What to do with it?
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That's what I hate too, it gets all over everything. If I happen to come across an easy score of Pine I'll take it, but won't go out of my way for it.
I am a Westerner and have used pine for years. Burned with it in our cabin growing up and still use it the way my dad did then.
I use it to get the fire going in the morning- 2 smaller sized splits and then I put a piece of hardwood on top of that once it gets going. Heats everything up really quickly especially when using the Super Cedar fire starters.
Once I have a hot fire going I do use hardwoods because, for me, they burn longer - I get more for my money. A cord of pine will last me 3 or 4 years. I go through about 3 cords of hardwoods per winter.
I use it to get the fire going in the morning- 2 smaller sized splits and then I put a piece of hardwood on top of that once it gets going. Heats everything up really quickly especially when using the Super Cedar fire starters.
Once I have a hot fire going I do use hardwoods because, for me, they burn longer - I get more for my money. A cord of pine will last me 3 or 4 years. I go through about 3 cords of hardwoods per winter.
I been burning mixed loads of pine & hardwood for 5 years now. I like the pine because it kindles up two or 3 times faster than hardwood to a big blaze.
When I get a load of predominately hardwood in the stove, I am wondering why it takes 3 times longer to get into a big blaze until i remember that there is no pine wood in the stove.
pine equals big hot fire really fast, like a race car and hardwood equals hard to start, long time kindling up to a blaze but lasts a long time once you get it going good,like an old desial truck that dont want to start easily.
I like mixed loads of hardwood & pine the best because I get the best of both worlds, a fast and easy start with some long time staying power once the hardwood finally decides it is hot enough to want to burn.
You have to watch(decrease as appropiate) the primary air with pine as it burns hot & fast
with not a lot of air & you may or may not have to readjust the primary air for the slower burning hardwood. I usually check my stove at 10 to 15 minute interavels to insure that the primary air is appropiately adjusted to the way that the stove is burning. after the fire has settled down to red embers, i set the stove for overnight burn and don't check it but once an hour.
Once you are down to red embers, the wood is too spent to be able to be dangerious in respect to a too open primary air setting.
When I get a load of predominately hardwood in the stove, I am wondering why it takes 3 times longer to get into a big blaze until i remember that there is no pine wood in the stove.
pine equals big hot fire really fast, like a race car and hardwood equals hard to start, long time kindling up to a blaze but lasts a long time once you get it going good,like an old desial truck that dont want to start easily.
I like mixed loads of hardwood & pine the best because I get the best of both worlds, a fast and easy start with some long time staying power once the hardwood finally decides it is hot enough to want to burn.
You have to watch(decrease as appropiate) the primary air with pine as it burns hot & fast
with not a lot of air & you may or may not have to readjust the primary air for the slower burning hardwood. I usually check my stove at 10 to 15 minute interavels to insure that the primary air is appropiately adjusted to the way that the stove is burning. after the fire has settled down to red embers, i set the stove for overnight burn and don't check it but once an hour.
Once you are down to red embers, the wood is too spent to be able to be dangerious in respect to a too open primary air setting.
Adirondackwoodburner said:
Pine likes to spit in an open air condition (fireplace/firepit). It is much more mellow in a woodstove (at least until you open the door and start poking it).
Skier76 said:
What does this mean? Is it punky? Is your maul a POS? Did you take a weak-sister cut at it?
If the wood is sound burn it in your stove. If it's punky burn it outside.
spoke with my log guy last weekend and asked if he had any pine
he's gonna drop 3 cord worth of logs for free in the next week
figure it will be great for the shoulder seasons and getting the fire going in the winter
he's gonna drop 3 cord worth of logs for free in the next week
figure it will be great for the shoulder seasons and getting the fire going in the winter
Bigg_Redd said:
If you have your own kiln to finish it off to bring it down below 18% moisture content. 3-4 months just allows you to burn it. You can save up to a couple of cords a year with burning dryer wood that is SEASONED . Less draft open to get the same heat= longer burn times.
N of 60
Good evening Redd. Glad you finally agree. I just wanted to be as stubborn as you. :lol: I will stop now. Cheers
N of 60
N of 60
madrone said:
I dont think so. I jsut dont burn softwood when I have 50 acres with a lifetime supply of hardwood. Softwood to me is outdoor wood and camp wood. Its not worth the time and effort I would need to put into it for what I would get out of it in the winter months when I have hardwood...plain and simple.
Adirondackwoodburner said:
I'm with you in a way... we get our firewood off a 400 acre farm, 200 acres of woods with lota of maple, hickory, birch, ash, popple and pine. even though we could have cut 100% maple and hickory, this year we cut 60% ash because it was so accessable and easy. we did 10 cords in just a few days because we were attacking 20" 100' ash trees. makes it pretty easy.
Adirondackwoodburner said:
Those Adirondack pines and firs make great kindling, get a hot fire going quickly, take the chill off an August evening and make spectacular camp fires. I have found that ours split and stack with a lot less effort and time than our hardwoods. However, I can't fault you for using those abundant hardwoods when it comes time to heat the house as I do the same thing.
Just split and stack it. When it is dry make the decision. I say if it is not rotten burn it.
If you ever burned 2X4 scraps and saw how hot they burned that was most likely some variant of pine.
If you ever burned 2X4 scraps and saw how hot they burned that was most likely some variant of pine.
here is what happens when you go to clean your chimney when you burn the evil pine...
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/1598/
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/1598/
most of the 2x4's around here are doug fir. The reason they burn so hot is one they are kiln dried to about 5% moister content, and there is lots of surface area so you get a high fuel to air ratio. Kiln dried lumber can destroy a stove, good ole split pine cant.Hurricane said:
MountainStoveGuy said:
Ive been burning kiln dried dimensional lumber and pallets all season. if you use them in moderation they are perfectly fine. i use 2-3 pieces of lumber , let em burn for 10-15 min or so then add hardwood. voila, instant heat. and if you call now, we'll throw in a happy wife and kids at no charge!
MountainStoveGuy said:
The BK will smolder a full load of that stuff with no problem. They recommend 12%mc or less. Any full blazing load I have had can rid the visible flames within a minute after turn down. The smoke will roll in the stove for hours feeding the CAT.
We're pretty much out of seasoned hardwoods now so im lettin my dad burn whats left of the oak. Im burnin some nicely seasoned pine splits we have around for backup. It's burnin nice and hot and I do love the smell of burnin pine! :coolsmile:
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