Permitting in CT

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More to the point, doesn;t the metal conduct heat like crazy? I thought the whole deal was that the shims had to be less conductive than the air. As it is you're providing a handy conduit to the underlying material (plywood?)

Steve
 
Gee, I don't know about the shim idea. Seems to me that tile sitting on 1/2-inch hardibacker with 1/8-inch of "air" is not going to provide sufficient support for the tile, and you'll get grout separation and cracking, especially with all the heat and weight. At least that's my guess. That's why when you ask the salesman about laying tile, they always tell you to have at least 3/4-inch of plywood and 1/4-inch of backing board directly under the tile.

Why couldn't you lay down a couple sheets of that tin screening they use for patching old lath & plaster? A couple sheets of that would get you to 1/8-inch and there would be plenty of air inside the mesh, plus enough support for the tile foundation. Or, you could drill a bunch of holes in a piece of backing board.

I know it's a code issue and Don is trying to comply, but I've gotten by with woodstoves on a lot less. Like 1/2-inch of tile & cement on top of 3/4-inch plywood.
 
You are trying to acclompish a air space. The shims would go below the micore and above the studs. Go look at a pre fab hearth pad at the fireplace shop and you will see what i mean. IF the pad is big then you will have to shim in the middle as well. THis is the method one of my installers uses. I have only made one pad in my life and that was my own. (which i didnt do correctly).
 
Eric Johnson said:
Gee, I don't know about the shim idea. Seems to me that tile sitting on 1/2-inch hardibacker with 1/8-inch of "air" is not going to provide sufficient support for the tile, and you'll get grout separation and cracking, especially with all the heat and weight. At least that's my guess. That's why when you ask the salesman about laying tile, they always tell you to have at least 3/4-inch of plywood and 1/4-inch of backing board directly under the tile.

Why couldn't you lay down a couple sheets of that tin screening they use for patching old lath & plaster? A couple sheets of that would get you to 1/8-inch and there would be plenty of air inside the mesh, plus enough support for the tile foundation. Or, you could drill a bunch of holes in a piece of backing board.

I know it's a code issue and Don is trying to comply, but I've gotten by with woodstoves on a lot less. Like 1/2-inch of tile & cement on top of 3/4-inch plywood.
Click to expand...

Eric, i fuged too. Dont tell the inspector. I used 3/4 durarock with 1/2 inch slate. But im not correct in doing this and im not advising any one to break the rules. The fact of the matter is the area directly below the stove is slightly warm, maybe 100 degrees, its the area in front of the glass that gets hot.
 
Would I be able to frame the heartbox out of metal stud, then just mount the plasterboard/durarock to the metal studs? Then I can just face the outside edge of the studs with some fancy tile or wood work to hide the metal studs.

That should give me the clearance to combustable of about 5 or so inches:

2x4 metal stud, 1/2" dura, 1/4' tile.

Yes, no, maybe so?
 
As long as it will hold the weight, shure! that would be a huge airspace. If you noticed in that chart, airspace is everything.
 
Well, I have it laid out to where I can do metal studs for the supports for the pad. Around the edge will be 2x4 lumber faced with tile. The studs are spaced 16" on center from the middle of the pad.

Thoughts?
 

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sorry dylan, my mistake, were talking about joists. Thats what happens when i have cocktails in the middle of the afternoon on a day off.
 
my set up is easy i am running 4" flex pipe stainless up 10 ft, stainless cap, zero clearance insert ash T clean out and a wall thermostat ,high heat silcone anything else i need??
 
High tem silicone caulk will not work it is only good till 500 degrees my suggestions is to use Firestop draft sealant tested to
ASTM 136 which is 1250 degrees but most products are tested to 2000 degrees or more Made by Boss or Dap as long as it is 136 standard you ar ok some can be found in the caulking section of Home Cheapo
 
The more post the more confusing this issue gets. Simply put a sheet of micore and durarock cement board on top and you are done
just tile on top of the cement board.

Hey hot flame got any to that ceramic wool left ?

all this metal studing and other concoctions are confusing the task. One could use High hat metal spacer with ceramic wool inbetween topped by cement board and tile.
 
goggle micore in CT Don you asked my another question the room location just say family living or den what ever your room is not bedrooms. 2/4 are conbustiable framing. Metal high hats are about 1.5" found at Home Cheapo and makes for a lower profile spacing with ceramic wool insulation between the high hats
 
I still can't find anyone who sells it. Perhaps I will call the stove store and see if they know.

So you would still recommend framing the base with the metal? I really wish they had some drawings or something I could reference to build this sucker.

I not only want to pass inspection, I want it to be as safe as possible.
 
if you have a bottom heat shield doesn't that lessen some of the requirements for hearth pad materials ? the hearth pad under my stove stays on low side of 100degrees even with stove temps in the450 to500 deg.range The manual for jotul had three requirements the last dealing with bottom heat shield only required a non combustible material no r values
 
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