Pellets not burning completley

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House is a 1978 when the guy cut the whole for the exaust vent there were two layers of drywall o nthe walls he had to cut through and laods of insulation. Maybe its that one wall who knows

But one wall i nthe living room is pretty much one big window.
 
What kind of insulation? If it was loose stuff it will settle leaving an uninsulated gap at the top. Was this wall on 2 x 4 studing or 2 x 6?

Is the second floor the same as the first?

Was is the width and length of the house and how high are the ceilings?

Is the foundation into the earth or is the house over a crawl space if over a crawl space how much insulation is in the floor and along the sides?

What kind of construction are the windows?

Yeah, I know more questions.
 
No clue on most of it.

Hosue sits on a basement part of the basement is above ground/ I b elieve it was 2x4 Contruction of the windows, not sure the yare all single pane i know lol. Far as i know the 2nd floor is the came built wise

Not very good at all this stuff.
 
Well if you could come up with the width and length of the building and approximately how much of the wall area is windows I think I can rough out the heat loss side of things. It ain't going to be pretty from what you have described.
 
Replace single pane windows with new energy efficient ones, replace windows with insulated wall, make certain you have two doors for every exterior doorway , add storm windows, add insulation to your cap, and insulate your basement walls to at least 4' below grade, bank the house with straw bales, locate and plug all air infiltration (this may be the biggie) as areas like around existing chimneys frequently suck large amounts of air up and out of the house, also any place where electrical or plumbing lines pass through walls, ceiling, and floors, make certain all vents close tightly when not in use.
 
Cellular panel drapes that can be closed, it is also possible to add foam insulation panels on the outside of your house by removing existing siding adding the panels and replacing with the same siding (provided it can be salvaged) which would require a bit of work around the windows etc...
 
Cost will depend upon what you choose to do and how much of it you can do yourself.

NOTE NOTE NOTE The following figures need a lot of work but should illustrate that heat loss can be a fickle thing to track down. This poster disavows any responsibility as to these figures reflecting the current real world situation under discussion. NOTE NOTE NOTE

I did a quick heat loss calculation and I lied about several things just to get some feel I assumed 20% window coverage 80% wall and that your house was 36 x 25 with two stories and air infiltration between careful new construction and existing construction.

Heat loss through the cap was 4,026 btus/hr
Through the windows 22,157 btus/hr
Through the walls 11,057 btus/hr
Air infiltration 16,524 btus/hr

I did not take into account the basement as I didn't have anything close enough to go on.

The total is 53,764 btus/hr this is the net output required to heat your home to 65 degrees on the nominal coldest day of the year.

Working a bit further along 53,764/.86 gives a 62,516 btus/hr gross firing rate for the stove if it can attain 86% overall efficiency. That is over 7.6 pounds of pellets an hour.

Now if you were to provide me with more specific information I can get a lot closer to the correct figure.

You should note that the windows are the largest heat loss area, followed by air infiltration, followed by the walls and lastly the cap. However remember all of these figures are rough estimates.

Now exactly what is the BTU rating of your stove?

NOTE NOTE NOTE These figures need a lot of work but should illustrate that heat loss can be a fickle thing to track down. This poster disavows any responsibility as to these figures reflecting the current real world situation under discussion. NOTE NOTE NOTE
 
Maximum BTU : 48000 BTU

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