Pacific insert install, so close, please help
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![[Hearth.com] Pacific insert install, so close, please help](/talk/data/attachments/13/13409-2637aed568ed0b57563fa570be1c15cf.jpg?hash=hQRkHcaMJQ)
Southland said:
From another thread with a similar situation, adjustable elbows with built in flex adapters.
Technically for UL listing the elbow has to be tested with the liner so you need to stay with one manufacturer. Of course I haven't figured out how plastic warning sticker and able to withstand 2100 degree chimney fire go together.
Kevin.
Always male down on solid fuel inserts. Any condensate that might form and run down the inside of the chimney will run into the next section below, or the stove that way.
The piece you're trying to put into the insert needs to be crimped on a crimper, but it's not quite long enough and at the wrong angle anyway.
Too late now, but I always leave an extra 6 inches to a foot on the lower section that goes through the offset. When you fit the solid section, lift it until you feel the weight of the liner. Take the slack out of it. Then secure it to the top of the chimney and seal it. Adjust the top section height with a slip section, or an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on it.
Now, the options are to either hog something together that will fit, or find an angled offset...
There are some "box offsets" out there that would work for you as well... Some might complain that stuff is going to build up in them. I think it's way too hot a location to have a problem with anything other than dust accumulate.
The piece you're trying to put into the insert needs to be crimped on a crimper, but it's not quite long enough and at the wrong angle anyway.
Too late now, but I always leave an extra 6 inches to a foot on the lower section that goes through the offset. When you fit the solid section, lift it until you feel the weight of the liner. Take the slack out of it. Then secure it to the top of the chimney and seal it. Adjust the top section height with a slip section, or an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel on it.
Now, the options are to either hog something together that will fit, or find an angled offset...
There are some "box offsets" out there that would work for you as well... Some might complain that stuff is going to build up in them. I think it's way too hot a location to have a problem with anything other than dust accumulate.
BrotherBart said:
thanks BB. 30 degree elbow replaces the adapter. I will try and find one tomorrow. Hopefully i will be burning by the weekend!
tkuhe said:
Notice he has the one with the flex liner clamp built into the elbow.
Also notice how it flanges out to accept the liner into the elbow.
Buy the right one the first time and save yourself some aggravation.
Hogwildz said:
I did notice that. Hoping one of the shops nearby has that in stock. I am not sure I could handle having to wait to order something online.
To get the stove going using a black pipe elbow will get it done. I had to do that myself the first season. No other heat source and it was late December. Just be darn sure that you replace it the before next season and and don't get complacent and leave it in there until smoke starts coming out of the insert surround some day. Because there will be a lot more carbon monoxide than smoke coming out. After just one burning season that one of mine was corroded.
Taking the time to do it right just makes sense.
Taking the time to do it right just makes sense.
Here's an example of what to look for:
(broken link removed to http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=6331)
(broken link removed to http://www.hartshearth.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=0&idproduct=6331)
BB, anything wrong with using silicone rtv to help secure the gasket rope around where the liner passes through the block off plate?
"HIGH HEAT" type silicon is made for that. Rutland and a couple others make it. Available on the shelf at most hardware stores here in Maine. Only buy and use stuff made specifically for solid fuel chimneys.
I use furnace cement. Too late at night to get another argument started about how much of the difference in price between "high temp" and any other 100% silicone caulk is bullshit. They both vaporize at 800 degrees. The Material Safety Data Sheets on both are exactly the same. Why? Because they are exactly the same stuff except for the red or black dye in the ten bucks a tube stuff.
The silicone caulk sealing the edges of my block off plate and the top plates of both chimneys for the last three seasons is ACE Hardware $3.99 a tube stuff.
The silicone caulk sealing the edges of my block off plate and the top plates of both chimneys for the last three seasons is ACE Hardware $3.99 a tube stuff.
tkuhe said:
It will be fine. A lot of manufacturers are using silicone to secure the door gaskets on stoves now. If you are using rope gasket around the liner it will insulate the caulk.
Red? No idea why it's red. Must be the dye. I bought clear, have used it on three liners now. Two of them have been up and in place for over four years. No leaks, no problems. Also, no block-off plate at the damper on any of the four liners I've done. Cousin who has run a stove shop and installed the things for years said as long as it's caulked and sealed at the top it's a redundant pain in the hind end. No draft around the insert, draft in the insert, GOOD. Draft around the insert, BAD.
MSDS say anything about heat of combustion? Just a guess... MSDS on concrete is the same, regardless of whether it's used in a sidewalk or to hold up a bridge. Rest assured, the mix is significantly different in each application. And it is too late, but I'll check on it and see what I can find out. I find out it's the same stuff, next time I'll use the regular myself.
MSDS say anything about heat of combustion? Just a guess... MSDS on concrete is the same, regardless of whether it's used in a sidewalk or to hold up a bridge. Rest assured, the mix is significantly different in each application. And it is too late, but I'll check on it and see what I can find out. I find out it's the same stuff, next time I'll use the regular myself.
BrotherBart said:
Well I kind of gooped up the rope with the caulk and stuffed it up into the gap where the liner passes through so I am not sure how insulated it will be. It is definitely in direct contact with the liner.
tkuhe said:
Personally I would not do that. Somebody else may think it is fine but not in this house. That stuff stinks to high heaven when it cooks off.
BrotherBart said:
So is it because of the smell or is it a safety issue? I can rip it out tomorrow pretty easily and redo it with cement if it will be safer.
this is what I used
(broken link removed to http://www.rutland.com/productinfo.php?product_id=28)
(broken link removed to http://www.rutland.com/productinfo.php?product_id=28)
BeGreen said:
Does anyone have any ideas on where I might be able to buy one of these in Massachusetts? I would rather drive somewhere than have to wait for shipping.
tkuhe - where in MA are you? I just installed the same insert two months ago and had a heck of a time getting it into the insert as well. I have a 2 sided fireplace and ended up pushing from the back while my buddy pulled from the front. We were able to bend the liner by pulling it down further and then when the bend was made, pushing it back up.
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