Pacific Energy Spectrum installation.

[begreen]

Sounds good, if you can post pictures of the roof, inside and out, we can help if you have questions. It's pretty straight forward.

My best friend is a cabinet maker and has a similar dust collection system, that's why I asked. It will create a negative pressure in the room if there's an external exhaust. The solution may be to provide the stove with a simple outside makeup air pipe. I'm not sure if this old a vintage of the Spectrum will have the knockout for the outside air kit. Take a look at the current manual posted online and see if it does. If it does, adding the kit may be all that's needed.

 

[whotheguy]

I just went and looked at the stove, there is no 4" knockout on the back. Could be one on the bottom in the pedestal but I didn't feel like looking just yet. And even if
there is one on the bottom, my floor is concrete in the garage.

Here is a pic of the outside of the garage with roof line.

This one is the side view of the garage with roof line. That window you see is the window I was originally thinking of venting it through.

And this would be the attic space above the garage where the chimney would be running.

As far as fresh air for the stove, I obviously can crack a door or even a garage door. Don't know if that would overcome negative pressure, but I think it would.

Robert

 

[begreen]

Great, that helps. This looks very straight forward as far as the flue goes.

As for the air supply, yes, opening a nearby window an inch if need be, may work for air.

If you download the Simpson or Selkirk installation installation manual they have full instructions. There are a few ways to support the pipe. One option will look something like this, though it looks like the attic insulation shield won't be needed.

 

[whotheguy]

Here's a new twist for thought. When I go hunting each year I use an outfitter wall tent. It has a nice little stove in it that works great. It heats up my 16'X20' wall tent real nice. The stove is made by Cylinder Stoves, although that doesn't really matter. Here's my thinking based on the posts above. This stove sits on the ground, roughly 2 feet from any canvas material of the tent. It's vented pretty much straight up with what looks to be like very simple, single wall pipe. The pipe I would say is about 10 feet long. At the top where it goes through the roof it has a square silver patch maybe 20 inches square, it's made out of some type of fire resistance material. How is it this can work without burning the tent down but I can't vent through a window as I mentioned in my first post?

I'm not trying to beat a dead horse here, just the opposite, I'm trying to understand the physics and such around it.

Did a cursory look around today and the pipe for installing it in the roof of the house is going to be like $1200.00 I about sh!t myself. Maybe I need to find a different way of heating my shop.

Thanks again for everyones input.

Robert

 

[cycloxer]

Piping is not cheap. You can install it any way you want. It is a matter of how safe and legal it ends up being.

 

[whotheguy]

Piping is not cheap. You can install it any way you want. It is a matter of how safe and legal it ends up being.

Dang it, the classic "safe and legal" block.

Back to the drawing board I guess.

Robert

 

[begreen]

That $1200 spread over the next 20 years and say a 4 month heating season/year will cost about $15/month. Probably less than the insurance on the building and just as important. Do it safe and right. The day you fill the stove with too dry wood scraps and get distracted and forget to close down the air, you will be most thankful that it was done right. However, I think if you shop around this can be purchased for less.

Speaking of insurance, have you asked your agent about this?

For pricing, maybe try www.dynamitebuys.com. I did a similar setup for our greenhouse and it came in quite a bit less. I used galvanized class A exterior pipe for the install to save a few bucks. Posted below is a for instance, it won't match your set up exactly, I don't know actual heights and distances needed, but is an idea of what it would take and cost. You may also need a roof brace depending on how much pipe is sticking out of the roof to meet the 10-3-2 rule.

 

[cycloxer]

Your cheapest option will be to do a straight shot of black pipe inside the garage and then go through the roof in one location close to the peak. As soon as you start adding elbows, thimbles, and fancy stuff it gets expensive. Check Craigslist. There are usually people selling random chimney components. If you are patient and not particular you might be able to piece something together. Also, go down to your local stove shop and see what he might have for leftovers from old jobs. That's how I put together my install kit and it is perfectly safe and legal.

I wouldn't pay $1,200 for a chimney system for my garage stove either.

You just have to be a little resourceful.

 

[whotheguy]

Thank you BeGreen for the example of pricing. I'll have to check their site out.

Your cheapest option will be to do a straight shot of black pipe inside the garage and then go through the roof in one location close to the peak. As soon as you start adding elbows, thimbles, and fancy stuff it gets expensive. Check Craigslist. There are usually people selling random chimney components. If you are patient and not particular you might be able to piece something together. Also, go down to your local stove shop and see what he might have for leftovers from old jobs. That's how I put together my install kit and it is perfectly safe and legal.

I wouldn't pay $1,200 for a chimney system for my garage stove either.

You just have to be a little resourceful.

Cycloxer, you saw the pics of outside the roof and inside my attic area. Basically it's trusses and some sheathing. Would I be okay then just running a chunk of black stove pipe through the drywall ceiling and then switching over to another type of pipe to go through the actual roof itself?

 

[begreen]

NO! The class A starts at the ceiling above the stove. Although this may be a garage, it looks to be a nice new one - attached to the house? Do this safely, as if it was in your living room.

 

[whotheguy]

Dang it. My ceiling in the garage is 10'. So I could run stove pipe up to this point, switch over with some type of trim ring/adapter to Class A pipe for the rest. I'm guessing from the inside the attic from drywall to roof is about 8 feet. Would I switch back to stop pipe once I cleared the roof on the outside? Damn this is complicated.

Robert

 

[begreen]

That's what I was guessing. Look at the installation manual for DuraTech pipe and the parts list. It's less complicated than making a dovetailed drawer.

In the parts list, you'll see two lengths of single wall, an adapter, the ceiling support box (for the exterior class A pipe), then 3-4' lengths of class A pipe to head up outdoors. There is the flashing, storm collar and cap to finish it outdoors. And it will likely need a roof brace with this setup. From the garage ceiling to the flue cap it must be all class A, hi-temp pipe.

 

[whotheguy]

That's what I was guessing. Look at the installation manual for DuraTech pipe and the parts list. It's less complicated than making a dovetailed drawer.

In the parts list, you'll see two lengths of single wall, an adapter, the ceiling support box (for the exterior class A pipe), then 3-4' lengths of class A pipe to head up outdoors. There is the flashing, storm collar and cap to finish it outdoors. And it will likely need a roof brace with this setup. From the garage ceiling to the flue cap it must be all class A, hi-temp pipe.

I guess that's really the only way to do it. I'll get up in the attic today and do some measuring from drywall to roof line. I know that I want to be as close to the peak as possible, right? I was also thinking I could move the pipe further down the slope of the roof to close the gap between the drywall and roof line to save some dough on the chimney pipe. But then that whole 3' above roof line and 10' away horizontally comes into play. I guess it doesn't really matter which install as the price of the pipe would be the same. The benefit, I think, by installing close to the roof peak I would have less pipe sticking out of the roof. Am on track here?

 

[begreen]

The decision for location should be based on clearances and practicality. I'd try to put the stove central in the building, but off center and out of the way. In a woodshop, if you are turning around with a ten ft. board, you don't want to be banging into a stove pipe. That might mean 3' of pipe up in the attic kneewall and 9' outside.

 

[LLigetfa]

Your cheapest option will be to do a straight shot of black pipe inside the garage and then go through the roof in one location close to the peak...

You make it sound like a redneck install of singlewall balck pipe running the whole length. I had an install like that for my barrel stove in an old trapper's cabin. Used galvanized pipe for the last section but even so after one Winter you could crumple it up like it was tinfoil. I'd wake up to the pipe glowing yellow and orange and the barrel cherry red.

I think whotheguy orginally intended to run singlewall the whole length out the window.

ISTR the 25 feet of SS chimney I installed in my former home 16 years ago was around $10 per foot. In my current home I went with the more expensive ICC but don't recall the price. I haven't priced any out lately but would expect to pay somewhere between $30 and $60 per foot these days. There's other costs as well.

I would scope out the run for a straight up shot using the least amount of SS chimney and paraphernalia that still meets code. That means a ceiling support, radiation shield, roof flashing, and rain cap. Run it through the roof in a location that requires less length yet is 3 feet higher than anything within 10 feet. A 6/12 pitch roof would require 8 feet of SS pipe beyond the roof if 10 or more feet off the peak and 8 feet of pipe needs to be braced. Staying closer to the peak can avoid having to brace.

A through-the-wall installation would require an additional 10 feet of SS pipe plus supports just to overcome the losses from the elbow/Tee not to mention the loss of draft from a cold flue. As mentioned, the other paraphernalia would put the cost much higher still.

 

[LLigetfa]

Dang it. My ceiling in the garage is 10'. So I could run stove pipe up to this point, switch over with some type of trim ring/adapter to Class A pipe for the rest. I'm guessing from the inside the attic from drywall to roof is about 8 feet. Would I switch back to stop pipe once I cleared the roof on the outside? Damn this is complicated.

Robert

No, you would stay with the class A SS all the way up from there.

 

[BrotherBart]

And keep in mind in each step of the planning how you will clean that chimney. Too often here we see folks plan down to the tiniest detail and then six months later they are back going "How in the heck am I going to get up there to clean this thing?".

 

[LLigetfa]

Too often here we see folks plan down to the tiniest detail and then six months later they are back going "How in the heck am I going to get up there to clean this thing?".

Ja, I was thinking the same thing after BG suggested 9 feet above the roof. That and the need for bracing.

 

[whotheguy]

And keep in mind in each step of the planning how you will clean that chimney. Too often here we see folks plan down to the tiniest detail and then six months later they are back going "How in the heck am I going to get up there to clean this thing?".

Couldn't I just take the pipe apart above the roof to clean it? And like another poster above me said about roof brace if I'm 9 feet or so up. Aren't those braces like round metal rods that bolt to the roof and clamp to the pipe? We don't get a ton of wind where I am, but do get occasional 30mph stuff. I wouldn't want the pipe leaving me if you know what I mean...

 

[cycloxer]

To clarify, you can only use the black pipe on the inside from the stove top and you have to maintain clearances. It's the cheapest pipe. The more of this you can use, the less cost. I didn't say to go through the roof with the black pipe. Redneck install? hh: You have to switch to the stainless class A once you start going through the floor and the roof. Does the floor run the full length of your garage?

Don't do a 9 ft chimney on the outside of your garage roof. That will look like crap, you'll need to brace it (more $) and it will be sketchy to get up there to clean. Stay near the peak and go straight up. It's the simplest method. It will also center your stove in the garage w/o any elbows.

 

[begreen]

The roof look pretty easy for access. Unscrew the top length if need be to make it easier to brush. Or brush it from the bottom up.

 

[whotheguy]

Ya I realized I’ll have to switch to the class A once I start going through the ceiling. I’m assuming you meant floor, as in the floor of the attic? If so, yes it does, it goes from the gable in the picture, to about 8 feet behind where I took the picture. And also left to right from eve to eve. It’s fairly open up there as you can see in the pic.

 

[whotheguy]

I don't know what this install looks like on the outside, but here's the inside. Honestly, I've seen several stoves installed in this manner. Don't know if it's the "right" way, but a thought.

 

[begreen]

Yuk, an old insert placed on durock and slate?! Although the stove, without legs and clearance to combustibles, even with the heat shield, looks completely dangerous, this does appear to have a proper wall thimble. What is outdoors is unknown.

Ignoring the bad stove install for the moment, the piping is an option for you. This is where the thread started out. But as noted earlier, it may not cost any less and will perform a bit poorer unless the flue is tall enough to draft well with the 2 90's in the smoke path.

 

[whotheguy]

Okay, here's the outside. And don't even get me all worked up on how much that pipe on the outside would cost. I was only posting the pic's for idea purposes. Looks like I would once again be better off going through the roof.

Robert