p38 3 blinking lights ESP continual problem

[rickwai]

You have a leak in the exhaust piping or where it connects to the stove tail piece. Maybe with the stove snuff the fire out to get it to smoke and shut the door and be ready with a flashlight and look for smoke. Should be easy to spot the leak

 

[ducker]

I'm like ready to just pull the trigger on a new circuit board. only thing that causes me pause is what board do I need to get now!!
kinda tricky to get the correct part number with the replacement / retrofit (unless the group here says otherwise!)

Anyone have the new serial number for that new circuit board? I do know that there is now one board that services a number of different stoves now (and you set the dip switches) but I couldn't identify the right board !!

 

[ducker]

You have a leak in the exhaust piping or where it connects to the stove tail piece. Maybe with the stove snuff the fire out to get it to smoke and shut the door and be ready with a flashlight and look for smoke. Should be easy to spot the leak

oohhh... ok that's neat! while not running - start it up and let it smoke/smolder. and look with a flash light!! cool! So straight forward, and when you get in to the weeds of trouble shooting something you don't think think of the steps!

 

[rickwai]

oohhh... ok that's neat! while not running - start it up and let it smoke/smolder. and look with a flash light!! cool! So straight forward, and when you get in to the weeds of trouble shooting something you don't think think of the steps!

the other thing I just thought of is dry ice like people use for holloween decorating to make it look like a smoking cauldron put it in a bowl with warm water and place it in the cold stove and start the comb blower. You should be able to spot the leak with that I would think. I know they sell dry ice in our local Meijer grocery

 

[ducker]

Tried multiple things and watched the smoke... I can see it escaping... think there might be an issue between the hook up of the pipe from the back of stove, in to the thimble of the chimney. My chimney sweep dude is gonna come by and scope out it to see what might be the problem.
I did pull it off and clean it out somewhat, as well as re-sealed it all. still it's bleeding out :/

I also feel there is something suspect with my circuit board.
so, I'm still looking for "Anyone have the new serial number for that new circuit board? I do know that there is now one board that services a number of different stoves now (and you set the dip switches) but I couldn't identify the right board !! "

 

[ducker]

Ok... chimney dude came.. he was like... wow.. yeah your chimney is wicked caked up... espicially up at the cap.
So I didn't have good airflow there.

All that was fixed and then fired it up... worked great - for like 5 days, and then.. AGAIN back to the 3 blinking lights.
Seriously.....

So either I replaced my ESP probe with another faulty ESP probe - else there is somethign wrong with my circuit board.

I also noticed that my front glass is incredibly dirty - it was just cleaned by the chimney sweep dude, so it went from clear to totally dirty.

Could there be a different issue at play here? improper airflow inside the stove with the exhaust blower?

If not... should I just replace the circuit board? or bring in the professionals (and call my stove company to come try to figure it out... I'm guessing they will want to replace the ESP probe again... and the circuit board)

Thanks community!

 

[Washed-Up]

Air intake flapper moves freely? This does sound like low air to fuel, check that your OAK is free as well

 

[ducker]

Air intake flapper moves freely? This does sound like low air to fuel, check that your OAK is free as well

intake flapper? Where would I be able to see that?
could the board be to blame for improper air to fuel? (I would expect that this could also throw off the ESP probe and cause it to also throw an error)


not using an OAK - just direct from room.

 

[rickwai]

low air flow is typically from a blockage. Back left side is the air intake, if there is not a outside air tube hooked up the flapper is right there behind the side cover opposite the circuit board. Idf there is a outside air tube hooked up pull it off and see if it corrects the problem

 

[Ssyko]

Ok... chimney dude came.. he was like... wow.. yeah your chimney is wicked caked up... espicially up at the cap.
So I didn't have good airflow there.

did he clean and brush the entire chimney? did the combustion blower get removed and cleaned? if the chimney was full so is the stove

 

[SidecarFlip]

did he clean and brush the entire chimney? did the combustion blower get removed and cleaned? if the chimney was full so is the stove

+1... If the chimney was 'caked up' the stove is really wadded up.

 

[Washed-Up]

intake flapper? Where would I be able to see that?
could the board be to blame for improper air to fuel? (I would expect that this could also throw off the ESP probe and cause it to also throw an error)


not using an OAK - just direct from room.

Here is a photo of your intake, flapper is inside

 

[ducker]

gonna scope out the flapper tomorrow.
The chimney dude cleaned the whole chimney to where my exhaust from my stove attaches.. my stove was cleaned by my "my stove people" in November.... and I pulled out the alumninim piping in January to check out the ESP and then cleaned that off too. And there wasn't a lot of suet in there then.

But now due to the chimney being all gunked up - I guess I'll take it all apart and try cleaning it all off - is the combustion blower the blower that is behind the ashpan below?

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions guys.. I appreciate it!! Hopefully this discussion will help others that might have a similar issue.

 

[rickwai]

Yes clean the whole stove. Holes in the bottom of the burn pot and the clean out door under the pot.

 

[gfreek]

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[ducker]

Ok... I did have it all cleaned out. pretty well.
I double checked and re-did the combustion blower (it was clear)
I checked the air intake (nothing blocking or in there)
I cleaned off the auger fan (didn't look as if that area has ever been cleaned before... but I doubt it's causing my issue)
I noticed the feeder cover was open a bit. I opened that - cleaned it out, and properly re-attached.
I then disconnected my connections on the circuit board and then re-connected them to make sure they are secure.

I then plugged it back in and turned it on.
even while in the OFF position, the I was getting all the fans on (with out lighting anything)
I tried moving the top knob in to the TEST position to see if I would then kick in the auger to feed.
Nothing.
Moving the temp gauge from OFF to Low, or High, changed the fan speed of the blower, and the STATUS light lit up, but no pellets fed. Even when I put it to TEST.. nothing.

So, I'm thinking It's gotta be the board.
I can't think of anything else it could be. and if that's the case. what board do I need to get?
This is what's in there now.

 

[gfreek]

Harman # 3-20-06142E is on your board..

Harman Control Board 3-20-00928, 3-20-05378, 3-20-05890, 3-20-06142, 1-00-06142 | eBay

Updates: The new style Harman board does not use the J2 sensor. Harman Pellet. Harman Wood & Coal. Installation: Dip switch settings on the circuit board must be set based on the model & ESP Probe Wire Color prior to installation.

www.ebay.com

https://pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models-oem/

Same company....Or try calling them to be sure correct before purchase, looks like it went thru some number changes

 

[ducker]

Harman # 3-20-06142E is on your board..

Harman Control Board 3-20-00928, 3-20-05378, 3-20-05890, 3-20-06142, 1-00-06142 | eBay

Updates: The new style Harman board does not use the J2 sensor. Harman Pellet. Harman Wood & Coal. Installation: Dip switch settings on the circuit board must be set based on the model & ESP Probe Wire Color prior to installation.

www.ebay.com

https://pellethead.com/product/harman-circuit-board-control-panel-manual-start-models-oem/

Same company....Or try calling them to be sure correct before purchase, looks like it went thru some number changes

Do you think it's pretty safe call to replace that now gfreak? or do I call in the professionals.
I'm thinking if I call in the professionals I'll be looking at around $400. versus ~250 if I do it solo.

 

[gfreek]

. Re read the whole post. ESP replaced with correct one, black wire ? Is the combustion blower strong and ever replaced ? Smoke smell..All the door gaskets and hopper gasket seal tight ? When you plug the stove in, put it on test mode all motors should sequence on, and it does not. Does a faulty ESP prevent motors to come on on test mode ? Hopefully others will post.

 

[ducker]

ESP was replaced with black wire one (purchased from same ebay seller you linked actually)
no smoke smell at all.
all gaskets look tight and sealed.

That is correct - plug in, put on test mode, all motors do NOT engage.

ok just stepped through again
Plug in stove:
Power light (on)
Status light (off)
Dist blower light (on)
Combust light (on)

turn dial to ON
status light (on)

no other changes.. wait.. pellets feed for about 2 seconds and stop. (I've seen this do this also when the stove is set to off)

turn feed to TEST - no change, nothing is different. pellets don't start feeding, and all blowers on. ( I have seen this work properly in previous years - start feeding kick on dist blower..)

Turn feed back to around 3, and turn the stove back to OFF
Status light goes OFF, blowers all still going.

The above test was done with out actually starting a fire. I wouldn't expect the dist blower to be blowing like that when I powered on the unit.

 

[rickwai]

While doing these test I assume you did have the ash pan door and stove door closed securely?

 

[ducker]

While doing these test I assume you did have the ash pan door and stove door closed securely?

HA! never hurts to ask.. but yeah, totally!!

 

[rickwai]

HA! never hurts to ask.. but yeah, totally!!

 

[ducker]

have been holding steady... didn't order anything yet. What do you all think? Drop the $240 for the new board? or call up a professional stove company in :D (and pay most likely at or over 400)
I just don't want to buy a circuit board if it seems like I'm WAY out of my skillset here

 

[rickwai]

If you replace the board and put a OEM ESP in that is all the controls of the stove.