Overfireing Wood Stoves

[elkimmeg]

well it it installed with a full liner? and did they install and seal a proper block off plate?

That company installed a couple in my area and had to come back because the lacked the block off plate and did a direct connection which violated the cross-sectional code
their idea of block off was to stuff common fiberglass insulation around the damper area. after 2 additional trips they finally got it right

 

[alfio]

well it it installed with a full liner? and did they install and seal a proper block off plate?

That company installed a couple in my area and had to come back because the lacked the block off plate and did a direct connection which violated the cross-sectional code
their idea of block off was to stuff common fiberglass insulation around the damper area. after 2 additional trips they finally got it right

yes elk they did . I watched them install it . but they did not put fiberglas after it . and no they did not install a full liner they sad i did not need it. they just went has far has the first tile.

 

[jtp10181]

Did your clay flue pass a level II inspection? If not they violated code by not installing a full liner (right elk?). If they had installed a full liner it would probably work a lot better. The flue might be oversized creating too much draft. We install all our wood inserts with a full liner.

 

[elkimmeg]

I be honest the installers for this company had no clue as to what code was. They must have emptied 4 tubs of RTV caulk and when it dripped they made no effort to clean it up the left the globs on the vent pipe the stove and on the v bricks once the suround was off It looked like Moe Lary and Curly did the block off plate. They filled next to the pipe cut out atleast an inch of RTV caulk dripping and spilling it everywhere since the pipe excan exceed 500 degrees more than 3 minutes 500 drgree RTV is not the proped product for the heat range

your original qustion about the damper plate requirement One approach is without quoting the Intrenational Mechanical code when the damper plate is removed it must be replace witha simmilar alike material. Meaning common fiberglass insulation is not suitiable one it does non meet the HT 2100 heat range of a chimney fire. Actually its melting point is around 700 degrees due to the aditives in the manufacturing of fiberglass lower the melting point Second alike material id ridgid in nature of the castiron plate removed ,again fibeglass is not. The listing of fiberglass is not listed for damerplate usage. It is listed to insulate and fill wall cavities There is no manufactures listing of the fiberglass manufactures that states that it may be used in the damper area. Untill the manufacture test it and list it for that usage it can not be used there. Even gass stove manufactures that list it d for usage are in error. they are listing a product for which the original manufacturer has not tested it to preform they are using a product not listed for the heat range it is exposed to and tested to Past post when this discussion occcured I actually cut and paste from the International mechanical code concerning the block off plate requirements I'm not on my windows based PC but on a power mac If you need the exact language I can reproduce it or do a search on this site block off plates that will keep you buszy for the next week. Code also mentions to provention of room air intrusion which the block off plate does

Man the more I type the more I need to proof read and edit but it is too late tonight to do it

 

[begreen]

If both of your stoves over fire then there is probably something else going on, and I doubt its the stoves. As elk suggested.

well , what are you suggesting , that i did sum thing wrong. First of all the insert , was installed by the dealer and inspected by the dealer .the dealers name is, [ All basic stove shop ] in merrimack N.H they are a quad. dealerto that's what they specialize in. And even glass is frosted from the intens heat , but I'm to descanted to call them and have it replaced .

Is this the stove in which the HomeFire pressed logs were burned? How many logs were burned at one time?

 

[alfio]

If both of your stoves over fire then there is probably something else going on, and I doubt its the stoves. As elk suggested.

well , what are you suggesting , that i did sum thing wrong. First of all the insert , was installed by the dealer and inspected by the dealer .the dealers name is, [ All basic stove shop ] in merrimack N.H they are a quad. dealerto that's what they specialize in. And even glass is frosted from the intens heat , but I'm to descanted to call them and have it replaced .

Is this the stove in which the HomeFire pressed logs were burned? How many logs were burned at one time?

no begreen, when the stove over heated I was using oak not the home-fire logs. Sorry i took so long to reply !

 

[Fire Bug]

If both of your stoves over fire then there is probably something else going on, and I doubt its the stoves. As elk suggested.

well , what are you suggesting , that i did sum thing wrong. First of all the insert , was installed by the dealer and inspected by the dealer .the dealers name is, [ All basic stove shop ] in merrimack N.H they are a quad. dealerto that's what they specialize in. And even glass is frosted from the intens heat , but I'm to descanted to call them and have it replaced .

Is this the stove in which the HomeFire pressed logs were burned? How many logs were burned at one time?

no begreen, when the stove over heated I was using oak not the home-fire logs. Sorry i took so long to reply !

Hi alfio,
I guess you have not found the problem with your overfiring stove. I guess it all depends on who your talk to about new verses old stoves overfiring but it seem opinions are split on the subject.
I hope someone on the site might come up with a possible solution to your current problem.
Like I said before, "IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE", but there are those who think it is!
It seems like sometimes things take a little more time to correct.
Let me know how you make out.
Good Luck,
John

 

[alfio]

If both of your stoves over fire then there is probably something else going on, and I doubt its the stoves. As elk suggested.

well , what are you suggesting , that i did sum thing wrong. First of all the insert , was installed by the dealer and inspected by the dealer .the dealers name is, [ All basic stove shop ] in merrimack N.H they are a quad. dealerto that's what they specialize in. And even glass is frosted from the intens heat , but I'm to descanted to call them and have it replaced .

Is this the stove in which the HomeFire pressed logs were burned? How many logs were burned at one time?

no begreen, when the stove over heated I was using oak not the home-fire logs. Sorry i took so long to reply !

Hi alfio,
I guess you have not found the problem with your overfiring stove. I guess it all depends on who your talk to about new verses old stoves overfiring but it seem opinions are split on the subject.
I hope someone on the site might come up with a possible solution to your current problem.
Like I said before, "IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE", but there are those who think it is!
It seems like sometimes things take a little more time to correct.
Let me know how you make out.
Good Luck,
John

Hi John, yes i was able to control it sum what , but i had to do a few things to control it .#1 i had to close the secondary air tubes partially #2 my efel the stove in question has an other small hole under the front door , i had to plug it , now i have better control but still cant fill it all the way .

P.S., I'm going to try sum thing new , from now on when i load the stove, I'm going to do it gradually, meaning , when i start the stove I'l place a few pieces of wood at a time and weight until the first load is chard , then place sum more and let it cum to temp, ruffly 400 degrees and let it run on high until the wood is all chard and then I'l close it to the medium setting . I know that sounds like a lot of work but that seems to me the solution , you have to burn it on high until all the volatile gas is burnt . then and only then can you shut it down . the other option is to only burn a few pieces at a time.

 

[Fire Bug]

If both of your stoves over fire then there is probably something else going on, and I doubt its the stoves. As elk suggested.

well , what are you suggesting , that i did sum thing wrong. First of all the insert , was installed by the dealer and inspected by the dealer .the dealers name is, [ All basic stove shop ] in merrimack N.H they are a quad. dealerto that's what they specialize in. And even glass is frosted from the intens heat , but I'm to descanted to call them and have it replaced .

Is this the stove in which the HomeFire pressed logs were burned? How many logs were burned at one time?

no begreen, when the stove over heated I was using oak not the home-fire logs. Sorry i took so long to reply !

Hi alfio,
I guess you have not found the problem with your overfiring stove. I guess it all depends on who your talk to about new verses old stoves overfiring but it seem opinions are split on the subject.
I hope someone on the site might come up with a possible solution to your current problem.
Like I said before, "IT'S NOT ROCKET SCIENCE", but there are those who think it is!
It seems like sometimes things take a little more time to correct.
Let me know how you make out.
Good Luck,
John

Hi John, yes i was able to control it sum what , but i had to do a few things to control it .#1 i had to close the secondary air tubes partially #2 my efel the stove in question has an other small hole under the front door , i had to plug it , now i have better control but still cant fill it all the way .

P.S., I'm going to try sum thing new , from now on when i load the stove, I'm going to do it gradually, meaning , when i start the stove I'l place a few pieces of wood at a time and weight until the first load is chard , then place sum more and let it cum to temp, ruffly 400 degrees and let it run on high until the wood is all chard and then I'l close it to the medium setting . I know that sounds like a lot of work but that seems to me the solution , you have to burn it on high until all the volatile gas is burnt . then and only then can you shut it down . the other option is to only burn a few pieces at a time.

Hey alfio,
Sounds like your on to something and maybe getting an upper hand on your situation. What ever works, do it!
Check the stoves over for cracks, holes, bad gaskets, etc. anything that will allow unwanted air into the firebox. Sometimes the simplest things can cause the biggest head aches!
Like I said my Fisher Papa Bear was great for tremendous, warm, heat but it was very hard to keep regulated with the stove pipe thermoeter. This to me was its biggest downfault.
If I knew of it than I would of trying to fabricate a stove door gasket for better control as suggested on this site.
These old woodstoves might have been "old smokee's" but mannnn, they should could put out some heat and they would last two life times.
I have never emptied the firebox of it's ashes to find anything more than very,very, fine ash powder,(no clinkers),so they had to be fairly efficent in their burning.
After reading on these new stoves, I see they are enviorment friendly from a polutants standpoint but I don't see know great numbers in extended burn time, (maybe B.S. Numbers) and God bless if they burn wild in the secondary burners;(Totally Out Of Control). And the prices are nothing but pure robbery.
No matter how you slice it, it is still a wood stove. Nothing more, nothing less.
Keep me posted of your progress.
Good Luck,
Thanks,
John

 

[Corie]

I think the necessity for the new stoves comes from the fact that not everyone was diligent in operating their older stoves in a clean burning manner. Many people, such as yourself it sounds like, had the operation of the old stoves down to a science and could burn good, clean hot fires. Other people though, like my grandfather, learned that they could buy a huge stove, load it to the gills with wood and then close the air control to almost nil and still heat their house with their smoldering mess of a stove.

I agree that it stinks that the new stoves have so many idiot proof provisions to absolutely prevent you from burning them very dirty that they give up a lot in terms of performance for long fires. The stoves that have the afterburner type system, rather than the tubes, give better long duration burns, as do catalytic combustor stoves. Of course, those stoves also require more user input with the engaging of the secondary, etc and I think that's why they're less popular.

It seems that a lot of people who want to burn wood have a double standard, meaning they want long term, clean burns but don't want to have to operate any additional controls. If a company can up with a design that gives that real low burn, long duration performance, coupled with an absolutely fool proof and simple operation technique, they could really break the bank.

 

[alfio]

I think the necessity for the new stoves comes from the fact that not everyone was diligent in operating their older stoves in a clean burning manner. Many people, such as yourself it sounds like, had the operation of the old stoves down to a science and could burn good, clean hot fires. Other people though, like my grandfather, learned that they could buy a huge stove, load it to the gills with wood and then close the air control to almost nil and still heat their house with their smoldering mess of a stove.

I agree that it stinks that the new stoves have so many idiot proof provisions to absolutely prevent you from burning them very dirty that they give up a lot in terms of performance for long fires. The stoves that have the afterburner type system, rather than the tubes, give better long duration burns, as do catalytic combustor stoves. Of course, those stoves also require more user input with the engaging of the secondary, etc and I think that's why they're less popular.

It seems that a lot of people who want to burn wood have a double standard, meaning they want long term, clean burns but don't want to have to operate any additional controls. If a company can up with a design that gives that real low burn, long duration performance, coupled with an absolutely fool proof and simple operation technique, they could really break the bank.

Hi corie,
I agree with avery thing your saying .I wish i had bought one of the afterburner stoves , but at that time there weren't that many out there , and the ones were out i didn't trust . I thing your right to say that they are more controllable , and that they give more even heat .

thanks for your input

 

[Mrs-GVA]

I think the necessity for the new stoves comes from the fact that not everyone was diligent in operating their older stoves in a clean burning manner. Many people, such as yourself it sounds like, had the operation of the old stoves down to a science and could burn good, clean hot fires. Other people though, like my grandfather, learned that they could buy a huge stove, load it to the gills with wood and then close the air control to almost nil and still heat their house with their smoldering mess of a stove.

:lol: Corie...you brought back memories....that was my father's mentality! (I think of him with a smile on my face) and once he started the thing up....well, it didn't get shut off until June! Heaven forbid we hit a 75 degree day the end of September....too bad...the stove has been fired up for the season! :bug: