Ouch. Pulled out stove, and 3rd degree creosote.

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Mr. Jones

Feeling the Heat
Oct 25, 2012
265
Kennewick, Washington
I'm trying to go from an old lopi slammer to an exterior masonry chimney with a new professionally installed system. Welp, I have someone coming over friday to look at it for a chimney sweep. Problem is, I already know this is bad third degree. We've had a slammer for 30 years in the downstairs that never had this problem, so I suspect it's from a shorter chimney upstairs, and greener wood. I'm just curious if these guys have to come out 3 or more times to spray chemical, how much more than the initial $130 this is gonna run. I may just say to hell with it, close it up, and get the down stairs chimney swept normally, and install it down there. Of course, that means more pipe to buy.
I'm currently using easy off oven cleaner, and letting it sit, then scrubbing with a wire brush, and paint scraper. It's pretty thick in some areas.
 
how much more than the initial $130 this is gonna run.
That depends how bad it is. If it cleans with rotary chains we only charge an extra $25. If it needs chemical cleaning you are probably looking at $350 min. Do they know it is a slammer they will be cleaning? If not let them know because we will not clean them unless it iis to install a liner and many other sweeps are the same way there is just way to much liability involved.
 
I'm cleaning it out, or trying to in order to get one professionally installed.
I would say that the cleaning charge on most slammers we clean for install is in the $250 to $300 range
 
I seriously doubt its so bad that rotary chains won't do the trick. Especially if you've never had this problem before.
 
I seriously doubt its so bad that rotary chains won't do the trick. Especially if you've never had this problem before.
It is a slammer I have seen them where the entire smoke chamber was dripping with creosote that looked like icicles. They can get really bad really quickly to.
 
5 cans of easy off oven cleaner, scraper, and half the day of scraping, and I'm almost done with the firebox. It looks a little more flaky at the top of the chimney looking down, but it's still gonna be tough right above the bend in the chimney where I can't reach through the damper.
 
What if I just installed the double layered pipe, along with insulation on the outside without spending the 600 or more to get this special pcr stuff done to remove the 3rd degree? Does that pipe still get hot enough to ignite this stuff in the chimney?
 
What if I just installed the double layered pipe, along with insulation on the outside without spending the 600 or more to get this special pcr stuff done to remove the 3rd degree? Does that pipe still get hot enough to ignite this stuff in the chimney?
You absolutly need to get it clean. The last one I was called out to inspect that was installed with a really dirty chimney had had a fire out side the liner and they had had liquid burning creosote running out of the firebox under the stove. It is very dangerous and scary stuff.
 
bholler, your input and experience is much appreciated. Jonesy, you don't want to cut any corners with this. Do it right and keep your family safe. Once you get through the initial cost of installation it's all gains and positive returns from there.
 
Yea, thanks for all the input. After I get this chimney cleaned, surely it isn't too hard to stuff some pipe down the chimney? The only problem I really have is I'm not sure about the bend. Is there flexible line at the bottom so I can snake it around the "shelf" that's right above the damper? If so, I think I can handle that part. The only part I don't want to even mess with is getting the old 1950's damper out somehow, and having a block off plate made and installed correctly. Wonder how much that would run? I believe after having that done, I can run the piping myself, and install the stove.
 
Hopefully this answer the gist of your questions..
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Cut the old damper out.


The liner is flexibe. Pull from the bottom and push from the top. It'll go down.
 
Cut the old damper out.


The liner is flexibe. Pull from the bottom and push from the top. It'll go down.
Yup that's the video if you don't want to watch it
 
surely it isn't too hard to stuff some pipe down the chimney?
Yes many times it is easy but there are plenty that are not easy at all. How big is your flue? is it straight?

The only part I don't want to even mess with is getting the old 1950's damper out somehow, and having a block off plate made and installed correctly. Wonder how much that would run?
It would cost just about the same in labor. In most cases dropping the liner is nothing done in 5 mins it is all the rest of it that will cost you. And they really cant make the block off plate till the liner is in and the stove has been positioned so they can get the measurements.


Pull from the bottom and push from the top. It'll go down.
Unless it doesn't and there are times they don't.
 
Hopefully this answer the gist of your questions..
No block off plate no mention of cleaning the chimney first and no mechanical connection between the liner and the stove. Not a very good example.
 
I used a lift when I installed mine. I probably wouldn't have been able to get it installed from a ladder.
 
Finally home. 500 miles exactly round trip. 42 gallons of gas. pfft. Anyways the pipe he had was just thin one layer flexi line, like dryer vent. I thought it was going to be double lined hard pipe, until you get to the end toward the stove to make the bend around the "shelf" above the damper. Oh well, he knocked off $200. So now I need to find some double or maybe even triple layered pipe for this thing. Should I sit down for the cost? lol
 
No block off plate no mention of cleaning the chimney first and no mechanical connection between the liner and the stove. Not a very good example.
Well, perhaps you should make an epic video then...This was example, the best I could find, perhaps the OP watched it and said either "wow not to bad, I'll ask more questions and order the proper materials and do this." or "hey now, that simple install is over my head, and I'm looking to do even more work, better stick with a pro." or maybe I'm just drinking to much coffee and suddenly realize that I think differently than most people.
 
I don't think his post was a condemnation of you for posting the video, but a critique by a professional of the work done.
 
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Well, perhaps you should make an epic video then...This was example, the best I could find,
I understand that but I saw some issues with their install which I felt I should point out. The lack of block off plate while not the best install is still perfectly safe. But cleaning the chimney first is one of the most important steps of a liner install and they said nothing about it at all. To me that is irresponsible. And the fact that they didn't show any sort of connection made between the stove and the liner is also a big issue.

Honestly in their case the chimney was clean but they should have mentioned it if they were doing an informative video. And they also may have attached the liner but it should have been shown

But I meant no offense to you it was actually better than many install videos I have seen they did cut out the damper (although i think using a torch is silly) instead of smashing the liner and the liner was insulated.
 
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Some time ago when my brother built chimneys we took down one that had a wood stove installed with the pipe going only just past the fireplace damper. The fireplace and chimney was ruined. The masonry was saturated with creosote so bad that it seeped through to the wood sheathing beyond the smoke chamber. The owner was renovating the whole house, he wanted to use the fireplace again and move the stove to the basement so we built him a new fireplace and chimney with an additional flue going to the basement.
 
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