There's obviously a disfunctional piece to your setup, but it seems like you explored most of the options. Im heating a 2,000 sq ft log home and when we hit 25 deg out, its easy to get the house temp well in to the 80s if need be (where I result to hanging in me scivies). In regards to your temps, in most cases if you shut it at 450, it wont climb all the way up to 650 an the likes on its own. At least I know mine wont climb that high. The only way to reach 650 is keeping the air open on a full load. If I shut it down around 500, maybe it will reach 550-600 w the secondaries, but not always.Nonprophet said:BrowningBAR said:I have NOT been keeping up with the thread, but something is really wrong if the Oslo is having a problem with heating that space.
To be fair, it is an older rustic cabin with so-so weatherization. Still, my fear was that the Oslo would just cook us out of here being such a small space, and that's just not happening.
NP
BeGreen said:I'm really happy this is working better for you now. Try some short bolts in the holes for now. Keep us posted.
grommal said:With the current weather conditions in PA, I don't get "raging secondaries and 650+ stovetop" with the air shut down 90% either. I DO get raging secondaries and 450-500 stovetop with the air shut as far as it will go. When it gets colder, and the draft pulls a bit harder, then I think I'll see somewhat higher temperatures, especially with very dry wood.
It sounds like your stove is performing the way it should now. Lots of folks say they need to leave a door cracked open for a little while on startup. There are a lot of variables in play when starting a fire, so it's no surprise that some folks need to crack a door and some don't. But your earlier reports of the stove basically going out if you closed the door - that's something wrong there.
wendell said:NP, glad to hear you are getting things figured out. I'm still trying to get my Oslo figured out as I have had many of the same symptoms you describe. I need to leave my side door open at least a couple inches for almost 30 minutes to get things warmed up enough to shut it. I can have an absolutely raging fire with every piece burning, shut the door and have the fire go out in less than a minute. But, I've learned that if i open it back up, let it burn for another 10 minutes or so and shut, it will keep burning and I can get the stove top up to 600.
I started with 14" of glue and added 3 feet which hasn't seemed to make any difference. Checked the air control and it is working fine. Air supply in the back seems to be clear. In my case, I can get it to burn pretty well but it just takes so long to get there, I keep thinking there is something amiss.
As someone said in another thread, the Oslo is like a freight train, slow to get going but then a great heat producer. Unfortunately, my Morso has me really spoiled when I can reload and have it shut down 90% in 5 minutes with a flue temp of 1000 °F. I guess that makes the Morso a sports car. ;-)
Nonprophet said:spendaviscpa said:Great that you got it figured out! Just to be clear, do you have the USA plate with extra holes drilled, but no washers? Is this correct? You are essentially using a EUR plate then. I’ve re-read the thread a few times and I just want to make sure I understand your final outcome! Thanks
Yes, that's correct. We're using no washers and just the modified doghouse cover with 3 extra holes drilled into it. We bought the stove used, so I don't know if Oslo's come new with both the USA plate and the EUR plate--ours only came with the USA plate.
NP
logger said:If I shut it down around 500, maybe it will reach 550-600 w the secondaries, but not always.
spendaviscpa said:Nonprophet said:spendaviscpa said:Great that you got it figured out! Just to be clear, do you have the USA plate with extra holes drilled, but no washers? Is this correct? You are essentially using a EUR plate then. I’ve re-read the thread a few times and I just want to make sure I understand your final outcome! Thanks
Yes, that's correct. We're using no washers and just the modified doghouse cover with 3 extra holes drilled into it. We bought the stove used, so I don't know if Oslo's come new with both the USA plate and the EUR plate--ours only came with the USA plate.
NP
NP, I’m really glad you got your setup working. I’m wondering if you could share how many and what size holes you drilled in the doghouse cover. I’m not ready to take that step yet. My Oslo is new (about a month old) and it seems like it wants to burn in the 400-450 range. I’m not living in the house yet, so I want more time to see how the stove operates with more use. I looked at the dog house cover and I’ve got 3 holes for air to enter. Anyway, I’m just curious! Thank you!
wendell said:Wood is 15-18%. Jotul says 14' is adequate and as i said, 17" isn't making any difference. This is 5' of double wall, 3' of Class A in a chase in the attic and then 9' of Class A out the roof.
Nonprophet said:wendell said:NP, glad to hear you are getting things figured out. I'm still trying to get my Oslo figured out as I have had many of the same symptoms you describe. I need to leave my side door open at least a couple inches for almost 30 minutes to get things warmed up enough to shut it. I can have an absolutely raging fire with every piece burning, shut the door and have the fire go out in less than a minute. But, I've learned that if i open it back up, let it burn for another 10 minutes or so and shut, it will keep burning and I can get the stove top up to 600.
I started with 14" of glue and added 3 feet which hasn't seemed to make any difference. Checked the air control and it is working fine. Air supply in the back seems to be clear. In my case, I can get it to burn pretty well but it just takes so long to get there, I keep thinking there is something amiss.
As someone said in another thread, the Oslo is like a freight train, slow to get going but then a great heat producer. Unfortunately, my Morso has me really spoiled when I can reload and have it shut down 90% in 5 minutes with a flue temp of 1000 °F. I guess that makes the Morso a sports car. ;-)
Hi Wendall! Yes, I remember you were having similar problems with your Oslo too. Like I said in another post above, I think that the Oslo's are particularly sensitive to needing strong draft and very dry wood--I'm thinking a minimum of 18'+ of class A chimney especially if you live in an area like we do where overnight lows in the 35-45 degree range are common which doesn't foster strong draft like lower temps do.
Personally, I'd rather have a stove that operated better at the margins than our Oslo does, and, while we got a great deal on our Oslo used, I'm not sure I'd fork out the dough for a new one, though overall we are happy with the Oslo.
NP
Nonprophet said:I thought I'd just make sure again that the air channels weren't plugged somehow (it's amazing where mice will build their nests here in the boonies.....) and so I removed the doghouse cover to check for any blockages. I used a small can of compressed air to blow through the chambers. No ash or debris was visible, nor was there any sound of anything moving around in the air chambers. When I put the DH cover back on. I decided to leave the "spacer washers" off.
wendell said:Nothing like single digit temps to solve what ails you. Raked the coals forward this morning, loaded it up and had the door shut in less than 10 minutes. On reload, door shut in less than 2 minutes and now cruising along with the primary about 80% closed and stove top over 600 °F .
Even when I was having some challenges, it was obvious this stove was a serious heater. Now all I have to do is figure out how to get some more of this abundant heat up to the second story.
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