Not sure why they told you that as more air around the wood is going to make it burn up faster.jimmyb7 said:
Osburn 2400 Woodstove - working questions
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Choked down in steps last night, and my All-Day burn I'm trying now has been in steps. Just shutting it off now after about 45 minutes full Tube Torching and a temp of 575
You might have to leave the air a little more open with your wood, in the right conditions and more dense wood I have to give my stove more air.
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
You need a full stove but stay about an inch or two from the tubes but dont get to worried about it if your closer but try and not damage the baffle board.
50% of your heat , its been stated on this forum is in coal stage. your not going to get flames for 8 hours. Most a satisfied after 8-10 hours to have coals for a restart and stove top temp of 200-250.
You should have enough coals to rake them all forward towards the front of the box as this puts them concentrated together right in front of the dog house air usually located front center at bottom of the fire box.
This raked forward bunch of coals lets you load the back of the box full to the bottom then you pile those nice small split dry oak kindling or what ever you have available on top of those coals for a quick re-building of the heat quickly up to 550 so you can start bacing down the air again. You have to play with at what temp you start shutting down the air and play with how fast your shut the air down in increments.
50% of your heat , its been stated on this forum is in coal stage. your not going to get flames for 8 hours. Most a satisfied after 8-10 hours to have coals for a restart and stove top temp of 200-250.
You should have enough coals to rake them all forward towards the front of the box as this puts them concentrated together right in front of the dog house air usually located front center at bottom of the fire box.
This raked forward bunch of coals lets you load the back of the box full to the bottom then you pile those nice small split dry oak kindling or what ever you have available on top of those coals for a quick re-building of the heat quickly up to 550 so you can start bacing down the air again. You have to play with at what temp you start shutting down the air and play with how fast your shut the air down in increments.
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Hey Hunt~
That's the thing, been cutting and burning wood for 30 years. Thought I knew something about burning, but this stumped me.
I always cut my kindling small/thin from my hardwood.
I had to leave the air open full for 30 minutes just to get something strong enough to keep burning, ahhhh.
I know, I used to focus on heat not flame, but kept reading these type stove MUST have flame all the time, so got paranoid.
Good idea about the kindling in the loadup. Too late now, but trying it on the next run.
Thanks
That's the thing, been cutting and burning wood for 30 years. Thought I knew something about burning, but this stumped me.
I always cut my kindling small/thin from my hardwood.
I had to leave the air open full for 30 minutes just to get something strong enough to keep burning, ahhhh.
I know, I used to focus on heat not flame, but kept reading these type stove MUST have flame all the time, so got paranoid.
Good idea about the kindling in the loadup. Too late now, but trying it on the next run.
Thanks
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Sounds like the wood is a little moist.
These stoves are not really wood burners but smoke burners.
Its all about the heat building
Its got to be your wood as that will give you fits.
If your getting up to temp on good hot coals and then its goes out when you shut the air down then your wood is too wet.
If you really want to figure this out go get that moisture meter at lowes.
These stoves are not really wood burners but smoke burners.
Its all about the heat building
Its got to be your wood as that will give you fits.
If your getting up to temp on good hot coals and then its goes out when you shut the air down then your wood is too wet.
If you really want to figure this out go get that moisture meter at lowes.
Yes, I rake the coals forward and put bigger in the back. But did not put kindling around it. I figured because there were a lot of coal, and it catches right away, didn't need it.
I was pulling coal forward, putting big in the back, then smaller in the front, then loading a row of big on top of it all.
Tubes--- if I stay 2 inch away, I'll barely get a second row int here. Last night I had to shimmy to get the second row between the wood and the tubes.
If I load top East-West, there's a big area between the Tubes not getting used too.
I was pulling coal forward, putting big in the back, then smaller in the front, then loading a row of big on top of it all.
Tubes--- if I stay 2 inch away, I'll barely get a second row int here. Last night I had to shimmy to get the second row between the wood and the tubes.
If I load top East-West, there's a big area between the Tubes not getting used too.
We posted together, sorry.
Yeah, I don't doubt the wood is being a problem too........8(
But we bought a dry bag of wood for testing. I just used that on the bottom row, so we will see.
Yeah, I don't doubt the wood is being a problem too........8(
But we bought a dry bag of wood for testing. I just used that on the bottom row, so we will see.
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Well if it catches quick then the wood maybe ok.
I will once the stove is cruising and that front row of kindling is all burnt up and the temps are good and hot, put another split or two on that front row to finish filling up the stove.
Tell us about your flue setup?
I will once the stove is cruising and that front row of kindling is all burnt up and the temps are good and hot, put another split or two on that front row to finish filling up the stove.
Tell us about your flue setup?
I left a path in the bottom where that Air intake pipe comes in near the door.
You can see it actually blowing the flame down the center of the wood.
It's burning well with air full off for about 15 minutes now.
The top is fully Torching across the whole surface.
I put my magnetic temp from the stove top to about 18 inches up on the Double Walled Pipe - its 300 degree.
FLUE. 6 inch Double walled pipe (stainless inside).
Up about 4 feet. Connecting to the Thru-the-Wall pipe with 2 45 degree angles to avoid a 90 degree.
About 12 feet of outside pipe easily clearing the roof pitches by 2 or more feet.
You can hear the stove drawing in the back, so she's drafting (and I'm assuming burning up a load of 9 pieces in 6 hours, she's drafting)
Again, tested the pipe temp in this start up and with air full off and flame cruising almost 1 hour in, its 300 degree.
You can see it actually blowing the flame down the center of the wood.
It's burning well with air full off for about 15 minutes now.
The top is fully Torching across the whole surface.
I put my magnetic temp from the stove top to about 18 inches up on the Double Walled Pipe - its 300 degree.
FLUE. 6 inch Double walled pipe (stainless inside).
Up about 4 feet. Connecting to the Thru-the-Wall pipe with 2 45 degree angles to avoid a 90 degree.
About 12 feet of outside pipe easily clearing the roof pitches by 2 or more feet.
You can hear the stove drawing in the back, so she's drafting (and I'm assuming burning up a load of 9 pieces in 6 hours, she's drafting)
Again, tested the pipe temp in this start up and with air full off and flame cruising almost 1 hour in, its 300 degree.
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Loading north south would be better if wood is not real dry. As air circulates better to the back on a north south load and you can get more wood in there north south as you dont leave the front by the door as open. The extra wood you can load on a north south load will compensate for the wood burning a little quicker but remember 50% of your heat is in the coals after no flames. As once you get to the point of no out gassing of the splits there is not much left to burn and at this point no threat of creosote buildup. But the heat will keep radiating but at a slower rate.
oldspark said:
This guy knows his stuff.
Jimmy, you're just learning the stove. Allow yourself time to get acquainted with your set up. Sounds like you're putting a lot of pressure on yourself to get perfect performance. Give yourself time to play with it. If you don't get it right turn the heat on and try again later. This is a brand new stove that performs a lot differently than your old one. You're going to get it right and love it.
Sounds like your wood is sub par. The trick to burning sub par wood is split it a little smaller, leave the nair open a little longer, and if you can mix in some pallet wood or construction debris, or some sort bio brick product.
Keep at it. You're going to get and its going to be great.
THANK YOU !! Everything I read, even the manual is saying ALWAYS have flame. Even says do not let it smolder without flame.... see my cause of concern?
I am worried if not flame then it's not doing secondary burn and creosote will build up.
Well, I did the Big North-South Top load last night and the top stayed in flame solid 2 hours til the wood all burned to coal. I figured it found the N-S too tasty.
I am worried if not flame then it's not doing secondary burn and creosote will build up.
Well, I did the Big North-South Top load last night and the top stayed in flame solid 2 hours til the wood all burned to coal. I figured it found the N-S too tasty.
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Keep an eye on it as its a sweet spot your trying to learn as, did you shut it down too far, as if the flames go out then you did shut it down to far.
Sounds like your getting a better feel for it your aware of all the variables , its just gonna take some time.
Is that whole pipe system insulated? what is the diameter of the pipe once you get out side?
Sounds like your getting a better feel for it your aware of all the variables , its just gonna take some time.
Is that whole pipe system insulated? what is the diameter of the pipe once you get out side?
Hi Da ! Thanks. Actually can't turn the heat on. This stove is ALL that heats my whole house.
So, in the middle of winter, it's GET IT RIGHT as soon as possible (grin)
Yeah, I have bags of lumber, not sure if it's spruce or pipe. but good enough to chop up into small bits to add to the load.
Thanks mate
So, in the middle of winter, it's GET IT RIGHT as soon as possible (grin)
Yeah, I have bags of lumber, not sure if it's spruce or pipe. but good enough to chop up into small bits to add to the load.
Thanks mate
The outside pipe is the standard Super-Chimney or Selkirk, you know? All stainless, insulated. I THINK the inside is also 6 inch (it might be 8 but pretty sure it's 6). The whole setup was professionally installed to code.
This burn is still going now, air full off, but to has a full blanket of flame torching from the tubes. Wood already is ashy and black/cracked. We shall see.
Yeah, sourcing out better wood for next season, and seems it is special place/balance these like to get working right.
Just trying to make sure I can get it right (grin).
THANKS
This burn is still going now, air full off, but to has a full blanket of flame torching from the tubes. Wood already is ashy and black/cracked. We shall see.
Yeah, sourcing out better wood for next season, and seems it is special place/balance these like to get working right.
Just trying to make sure I can get it right (grin).
THANKS
sink, swim.... you forgot stay up all night watching and adding if needed so everyone is toasty in the morning......
Huntindog1
Minister of Fire
Knowing the full height of your flue system is important also as since your fully insulated you can get with a flue thats like 23 foot or higher , you can get to much draw as that makes it hard to get the best burn times. These stoves are like a tuned machine.
As long as your have enough coals to reload is what most people focus on. Having flames for a longer periods of time is going to be variable.
After doing this for a while I have come to the conclusion that I leave my air open a little more to promote a little hotter burn as these stoves are efficient but not as efficient if I shut the air down too much.
My conclusion is this If I leave the air a little more open then the stove is a little hotter and burning more efficient giving me more heat from that load of wood. Then I just put more heat into my big storage compartment called my house. So then once in the coals stage its not as hard to keep the house temp up since my house had more heat built up in it.
Now dont get me wrong if you let your stove burn wide open your flushing alot of heat up the chimney and thats a waste also.
As long as your have enough coals to reload is what most people focus on. Having flames for a longer periods of time is going to be variable.
After doing this for a while I have come to the conclusion that I leave my air open a little more to promote a little hotter burn as these stoves are efficient but not as efficient if I shut the air down too much.
My conclusion is this If I leave the air a little more open then the stove is a little hotter and burning more efficient giving me more heat from that load of wood. Then I just put more heat into my big storage compartment called my house. So then once in the coals stage its not as hard to keep the house temp up since my house had more heat built up in it.
Now dont get me wrong if you let your stove burn wide open your flushing alot of heat up the chimney and thats a waste also.
I get it.
I'm just tying to get an over-night burn, you know?
It's been either no flaming, or constant flame, as in this current burn - even air off, 90 minutes in, the whole top still has jetting flame, but it's not crazy burn in the bottom (I mean it doesn't see to be out of control, too much draft -- just surprised there's solid flame up top with no air).
I don't mind leaving the air open a little with this wood if need be, just pray it doesn't eat up the wood 8)
As for heat ---- Very impressed with the heat this throws out. Even at like 325 stove top and the end of a burn, that 325 stays, and it's felt through the house. I'm not complaining.
My biggest confusion has been that "flame" issue -- to keep flame or not to keep flame. IT's Secondary combustion or it isn't. You know, the book makes sense, you can't have 2nd combustion at the tubes if there's no flame to feed it. But constant flame eats your wood. Really, this stove wood slow burn / simmer into coal without flame, no problem -- but then, you've only got an old fashioned wood burn, more dirt in the air and more creosote concern.
I'm just tying to get an over-night burn, you know?
It's been either no flaming, or constant flame, as in this current burn - even air off, 90 minutes in, the whole top still has jetting flame, but it's not crazy burn in the bottom (I mean it doesn't see to be out of control, too much draft -- just surprised there's solid flame up top with no air).
I don't mind leaving the air open a little with this wood if need be, just pray it doesn't eat up the wood 8)
As for heat ---- Very impressed with the heat this throws out. Even at like 325 stove top and the end of a burn, that 325 stays, and it's felt through the house. I'm not complaining.
My biggest confusion has been that "flame" issue -- to keep flame or not to keep flame. IT's Secondary combustion or it isn't. You know, the book makes sense, you can't have 2nd combustion at the tubes if there's no flame to feed it. But constant flame eats your wood. Really, this stove wood slow burn / simmer into coal without flame, no problem -- but then, you've only got an old fashioned wood burn, more dirt in the air and more creosote concern.
@Da-- see my top post - I've kept that updated without adding posts. Currently over 90 minutes in, air off and the whole top has flame, is jetting from the tubes, so once again, little concerned it will be another fast burn. It's been either flame filled or no flame.
Just posted update in my other thread ---
90 minutes in, the pipe temp has gone from 300 to 250
but firebox still has a good top blanket of flame jetting. (though the wood is not all lit up.... think this is a good gas burning situation)
the wood has shrunk in volume about 1/2 by looks, it's blackened, coated in ash.
All with the air off
90 minutes in, the pipe temp has gone from 300 to 250
but firebox still has a good top blanket of flame jetting. (though the wood is not all lit up.... think this is a good gas burning situation)
the wood has shrunk in volume about 1/2 by looks, it's blackened, coated in ash.
All with the air off
I think wet wood acts that way, flame with all sorts of air but it wont burn well with reduced air.
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