Optimum chimney set up for a Franklin stove?

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bark-eater

New Member
Nov 28, 2024
52
Delmarva
Hi all, I've read enough to know that most folks here are not fans of Franklin stoves, and I appreciate all the good reasons not to install one.

But I hoping someone familiar with the beast could recommend a chimney set up that will allow me to enjoy burning one as a fire place.

I don't have a stove on hand but I believe that they are designed for a 7" flue.

My assumption is that I would have an uninsulated 90 degree bend to an insulated port through the back wall and another 90 degree turn and then approximately 20 feet up. Another assumption is that I could put an insulated "T" on the bottom to simplify cleaning the chimney.

What I'm not sure about is how the modern chimney will work with the hotter exhaust from a non air tight stove frequently burned as an open fire place.

I'd also like to make sure that I can install a more modern fire place on the same chimney when and if the Franklin looses its charm.

Thanks, Woody
 
I think 20 ft is too tall for a leaky stove.
It'll draft too much.
You'll need a key damper if you have to have 20 ft.

Class A pipe should be able to handle the hot exhaust such a stove. Inside double wall would be safer,.lower clearance. (And it's stainless on the inner wall).
 
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Probably closer to 14'.

I've got some reading to do on this, but looking around, there is a lot more 8" pipe available as "surplus".

Will going up an inch negatively affect the draft?
 
If you plan on also burning with the doors open (fireplace mode) I'd go 8".
 
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Hi all, I've read enough to know that most folks here are not fans of Franklin stoves, and I appreciate all the good reasons not to install one.

But I hoping someone familiar with the beast could recommend a chimney set up that will allow me to enjoy burning one as a fire place.

I don't have a stove on hand but I believe that they are designed for a 7" flue.

My assumption is that I would have an uninsulated 90 degree bend to an insulated port through the back wall and another 90 degree turn and then approximately 20 feet up. Another assumption is that I could put an insulated "T" on the bottom to simplify cleaning the chimney.

What I'm not sure about is how the modern chimney will work with the hotter exhaust from a non air tight stove frequently burned as an open fire place.

I'd also like to make sure that I can install a more modern fire place on the same chimney when and if the Franklin looses its charm.

Thanks, Woody
There are 6" ones 7" ones and 8" ones. Most i come across are 8"
 
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Adding two 90º turns in the flue path will reduce draft. It's sub-optimal. Compenstating with lots of height, like 20' of chimney will be very awkward and difficult to support safely. The optimum for the Franklin from WA Stoveworks would be going straight up from the stove 10-12' with a through the roof chimney.
 
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If you want to use it in fireplace mode, I think a key damper would be required.

Also be aware if you ever do decide to put a more modern device in the place of the Franklin, you will have very few oprions if you choose to install an 8" chimney. Most require a 6".
 
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If you want to use it in fireplace mode, I think a key damper would be required.

Also be aware if you ever do decide to put a more modern device in the place of the Franklin, you will have very few oprions if you choose to install an 8" chimney. Most require a 6".

Closing a damper on an open fire would just lead to smoking out the room. You would want it wide open in fireplace mode.
 
Is there a less expensive option for an exterior 8" chimney pipe that will work? Or I guess the safe way to ask, would be can anyone tell me what would have been acceptable in 1976?
 
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Is boxing in an uninsulated chimney pipe with a metal shell an option?
There is no such thing as an uninsulated chimney pipe for a wood stove. All chimney pipe must be class A high temp.
 
I will not comment on your choice of stove (I have thoughts) but your willingness to disregard current safe installation practices and codes concerns me. Do you have insurance on the structure this is being installed in? Have you run your hypothetical plans buy your insurance company.

We’re here to help you do I right not help you decide which corners can be cut. The answer is none. Is an intention fine inside your home. Don’t mess about.
 
Is boxing in an uninsulated chimney pipe with a metal shell an option?
Is there a less expensive option for an exterior 8" chimney pipe that will work? Or I guess the safe way to ask, would be can anyone tell me what would have been acceptable in 1976?

Sure, let er rip at this point................
 
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Closing a damper on an open fire would just lead to smoking out the room. You would want it wide open in fireplace mode.
I have never run a Franklin in fireplace mode, but with a Fisher Grandma or Grandpa, you do use a Stove pipe damper with the doors open. If you close the damper all the way, you get smoke in the room. What you do is to close it just enough that you don't get smoke.
 
At this point the cost difference of 8” probably makes a news 6” say the Drolet 1800 a cost comparable option
 
At this point the cost difference of 8” probably makes a news 6” say the Drolet 1800 a cost comparable option
The chimney cost is the most likely deal breaker, but this is a 4 year out project, so I have time to look for deals, and spread purchase costs out. I guess the next question is, what other stoves use an 8" chimney? The Franklin stove is actually rated for a 7" chimney, which seems a little less available, but I if went with 7" would I be able install a 6" rated stove? Or are there more options that use an 7" chimney? Chimney should be around 14' total.
 
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Very few stoves use 8" and they are very large stoves.
 
6" on 7" chimney is ok if the flue height is adequate for the stove. You'll find that 7" chimney pipe is an outlier and may be more expensive. What prices will be 3-4 yrs from now is pure speculation. They have doubled in some cases in the past 4 yrs.
 
6" on 7" chimney is ok if the flue height is adequate for the stove. You'll find that 7" chimney pipe is an outlier and may be more expensive. What prices will be 3-4 yrs from now is pure speculation. They have doubled in some cases in the past 4 yrs.
And doubled in the previous 4 years as well. Ventis and excell are the only ones I know of that currently make 7" chimney.
 
The chimney cost is the most likely deal breaker, but this is a 4 year out project, so I have time to look for deals, and spread purchase costs out. I guess the next question is, what other stoves use an 8" chimney? The Franklin stove is actually rated for a 7" chimney, which seems a little less available, but I if went with 7" would I be able install a 6" rated stove? Or are there more options that use an 7" chimney? Chimney should be around 14' total.
Do you have a Franklin stove? Because I honestly have only ever seen one 7" one. Most are 8" and a few 6" ones. If you are dead set on this plan just track down a 6" one and use that. They are considerably smaller as well.
 
Do you have a Franklin stove? Because I honestly have only ever seen one 7" one. Most are 8" and a few 6" ones. If you are dead set on this plan just track down a 6" one and use that. They are considerably smaller as well.
Don't have one yet. I'm watching the used market locally for a reasonably priced one. I did find a copy of the Atlanta stove company's Franklin stoves brochure, and they did have 3 different sizes, so I'm hoping I can find one of the small ones. I have spot I can set a stove up as an outdoor fire place for more immediate use, but would want to protect it from the elements a bit more, my instincts are against buying any stoves that have been sitting out side.
 
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