Opening the stove's door produces odd sound coming from the pipe ...

[BobUrban]

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/how-do-you-use-your-envi-blocks.139945/

Look at this thread recently on the Hearth

 

[Everhard]

A M do as everyone is saying, fill the box! Get flames going good right at the top of the box. Don't be afraid to get the stove top temp up to 600f. I just loaded mine up and now that's the temp it' cruising at. Its going to stay above 500f for hours.
Regarding your earlier reply to my post - coal sizes - depends on how much I fill the box, if I pack it full I'll still have large coals 14,16,18hrs+ later! In fact I've been gone from the house for 48hrs on occasion and still found enough small coals to relight the fire. (then it becomes a game to see if you can get the stove going with minimal coals.) But my regular schedule which means at most I'm away for 16hrs I'll have enough coals big coals that I can fire the stove back up without bothering to get kindling. It all comes down to one thing - loading that box up.

If you're worried that the fire will get out of control with the box full - well don't be, you're totally in control of it, just close off the air supply and the fire will die down. But first get it up to 600f!
Follow the instructions some one posted after my last post on getting the box up to temp, that was nicely done.
The wood you are burning isn't the issue it all, it comes down to you not filling that box. It's massive, you need to get wood in there to get it hot! Also if you're cleaning it right out after every burn then stop doing that. A bed of coals is a good thing.
As mentioned before load it N/S. You can load either direction but that is the safest as the wood won't roll back onto the door.
You said you're cleaning the door each time - that definitely means you're not burning the fire hot enough, I haven't cleaned my door in a month because it is clean still!

Last thought - get a good book, along with a nice drink, load that stove up full, get it roaring, follow everyone's instructions here, and then plant yourself by the stove and enjoy that book and drink. Then you're right by the stove so you can keep an eye on it. Once you see that nothing bad will happen you'll start to develop more comfort with it. From what I've read it sounds like this is your biggest challenge. Get comfortable with how that stove will run at a proper temp.

Enjoy!

E.

 

[A M]

Not at all. Having a raging fire in the middle of your home is nothing to sneeze at. Take it slowly, watch how the stove responds to the air control, monitor the temps, and do try loading fuller only on days when you are at home. Anything under 800 F is fine and even then it is still pretty far from glowing when the real danger starts.



With that 2 splits of wood and maybe some older ones the stove quickly runs out of fuel. You will need to load quite a bit more to keep it above 500 F for a prolonged period. Here is what I do:

With still a good amount of coals usually in the back of the stove and stove temp about 300 F, I rake all the coals forward. I drop 2 to 3 splits E-W behind the coals, then fill the firebox almost to the baffle with more splits N-S. (E-W is also ok if that is the preferred orientation of your stove. Maybe try only half full the first time.) With the door slightly ajar I let the wood catch fire, then close the door. For a few minutes I let the moisture boil off with the air fully open, then I start closing the air in stages over the next 5 to 10 minutes. When I close I check whether the flames start getting slow-moving (lazy). I wait a few minutes until the fire has become more vigorous again, then I close the air more until the flames slow down again and so on. Pretty quickly I can see strong secondary flames coming from the baffle. Usually I have the air fully closed after 10 to 15 minutes but that can be different with your bigger stove. The stove thermometer will be lagging the behind the internal firebox temps. Thus, use the appearance of the fire as your guide. As long as you get flames in the top and those keep going after you adjusted the air you are fine. The stovetop thermometer should peak maybe at about 600 F several minutes after the air control is in its final position (between fully closed and 1/4 open probably).

With a full load of hardwood my stove will stay above 350 F for at least 6 to 7 hours before I bother with a reload. I have come back 12 hours later (e. g. in the morning) and found the stove still somewhat warm and enough coals for an easy restart. There is no need to keep it above 500 F once you have only coals left as little smoke is produced then. If you want to burn the coals down faster, you can open the air up a bit again after the fire is essentially out.

OK, I think I am getting it: fill it up and stop opening the door!! Oy, vey ... stop opening the door? It is almost a habit because I'll throw in another log or take the iron spear and move a piece of wood and then close the door.

Anyway, thank you, Grisu, for the above. Gosh, E. and BobUrban are also saying the same thing regarding filling it up initially. Guess I thought that if the wood doesn't burn at first ... what a nightmare it would be to see many pieces of smoldering wood ... and then, what would I do? Soooooo, that's mainly the reason that I would only put in a few pieces initially and then add one or two more to keep the fire going. OK, OK, ... I see what I've been doing wrong all along.

Here's a brief report on this afternoon and for me it is a big improvement. My goal was "500" degrees. Did not have a fire all day. I cleaned out firebox hours earlier and decided to start from a cold firebox. The LR was feeling cold and I decided to not wait til later in the afternoon to start a nice fire. Weather-wise today? It was sunny, but very windy and cold. In thelow 40s. Here's what transpired when I built the fire (I wrote down times & temps):

2:30PM: Took .15 mins. to get the stove to 200. I had two splits and other pieces of wood but not official splits. The box was fairly full.
3:00PM: Stove is at 300 (yes, it took a half an hour to achieve this temperature).
3:05PM: Stove is at 350 (wow, it only took 5 minutes to increase 50 degrees).
3:10PM: Stove is at 400 (I am surprised; the higher it get, the faster the temps increase).
3:13PM: Stove is at 425 (It took 3 minutes to go up another 25 degrees).
??????: The goal was not met (500); however, it did make it to 475 degrees and I was very happy with that and not what I am use on a regular basis.

I went to the store and when I returned at 4:45PM, the stove was still at 425. This generally never happens and stays in the 400 range.

What have I learned today? That I need to fill the stove with more wood when I initially build a fire, no more two splits only; fill that box up, if I can. If the wood can't be ALL under 20%, then put some good wood in and some not-so-good in; just get the box filled.

It is now 5:30PM CST. The stove's temp has gone down to 350. The air is open one inch. Some wood is starting to coal up. Some wood is still burning down. I see some light blue flames and a lot of red in the wood. I just opened the air a tiny bit in order to see some more flame and help speed it along a little so that I can it through its burn cycle. I want to throw in some more wood but I won't and will wait until it is done with its cycle. My next "try" I am definitely going to put in more wood from the very beginning, well, the next "re-load."

 

[A M]

A M do as everyone is saying, fill the box! Get flames going good right at the top of the box. Don't be afraid to get the stove top temp up to 600f. I just loaded mine up and now that's the temp it' cruising at. Its going to stay above 500f for hours.
Regarding your earlier reply to my post - coal sizes - depends on how much I fill the box, if I pack it full I'll still have large coals 14,16,18hrs+ later! In fact I've been gone from the house for 48hrs on occasion and still found enough small coals to relight the fire. (then it becomes a game to see if you can get the stove going with minimal coals.) But my regular schedule which means at most I'm away for 16hrs I'll have enough coals big coals that I can fire the stove back up without bothering to get kindling. It all comes down to one thing - loading that box up.

If you're worried that the fire will get out of control with the box full - well don't be, you're totally in control of it, just close off the air supply and the fire will die down. But first get it up to 600f!
Follow the instructions some one posted after my last post on getting the box up to temp, that was nicely done.
The wood you are burning isn't the issue it all, it comes down to you not filling that box. It's massive, you need to get wood in there to get it hot! Also if you're cleaning it right out after every burn then stop doing that. A bed of coals is a good thing.
As mentioned before load it N/S. You can load either direction but that is the safest as the wood won't roll back onto the door.
You said you're cleaning the door each time - that definitely means you're not burning the fire hot enough, I haven't cleaned my door in a month because it is clean still!

Last thought - get a good book, along with a nice drink, load that stove up full, get it roaring, follow everyone's instructions here, and then plant yourself by the stove and enjoy that book and drink. Then you're right by the stove so you can keep an eye on it. Once you see that nothing bad will happen you'll start to develop more comfort with it. From what I've read it sounds like this is your biggest challenge. Get comfortable with how that stove will run at a proper temp.

Enjoy!

E.

E., you sound as darn smart as Grisu and a few others. Thank you for all you know. OK, I just replied to Grisu, but I want you to know that my goal TODAY was 500! I am not even ready for 600 DEGREES? No way. That is way too high for the wood I'm guggling. I almost made it to 500 today. It got up to 475. I do see your point, though. I have not been filling the box full enough. Yes, I see that now. I am loading it from N/S.

If I go on an errand, I ALWAYS make sure to check the stove before I go out. I make sure that the Bypass Damper is off, the door handle is fully closed (not partially open), and I check the air control to see again how OPEN it is and then I look at the flames of the wood. So, I can't leave the house unless I know nothing bad is going to happen; especially since I have a beautiful little 10 pound dog and I have to feel secure leaving the stove and the dog, otherwise, I won't go on that errand!!

Thanks again for that input. I will re-read a few people's instructions on this post in case I missed anything.

 

[A M]

I think your wood is not nearly as dry as you think, or something is wrong with the stove. Did you split those pieces before you tested them? I have marginal wood but have no problem getting my stove top up to 600 degrees. I do need to leave my air open a little more than I'd like in order to keep my temps up. Smaller splits can help with your temps also. But it shouldn't take a few hours for your stove to get hot.

BradleyW, ... maybe your stove just heats up quicker than mine? You have no trouble getting it to 600? In how many minutes and is it a warm "re-load" load or do you mean from a cold stove? No, I did not split the splits. I just put them in as they are .What make/model is your stove? Is it a Cat stove or a non-Cat stove? Thank you.

 

[A M]

AM - go back to my most recent post and look at the plan. You need to LOAD it up - fill the entire space with wood within a couple inches of the top. How many splits this takes will depend on size of box and size of splits. 2-3 splits is like adding a gallon of gas to an empty car before heading out on a road trip. Car runs fine but you are stopping for more fuel before leaving town.

Every time you open the stove to add a split or two you are cooling off the system. Adding compromised fuel is taking more heat away by making the stove dry it out before producing heat. You need to load it and get a full load dry and burning before you will see what your stove is capable of in regards to heat production and long burn cycles. The stove has all that space inside for fuel - it was designed to be filled and run in cycles. Even with 15% oak you will never achieve the results you desire or your stove is capable of if you only put a couple splits in at a time and continually add one or two to keep flames going.

Go get some bio brick fuel and mix a couple in with your current wood and fill it up. Baby sit until it is running great and enjoy the heat. DO NOT open the door until it returns to 250-300 and repeat.

BU, ... I loved your analogy of adding a gallon of gas to an empty car and expecting to be fine on my road trip. Haa, haa. That was good. And, true. I see what you are saying completely. Soooo, even if I had perfect hardwood with only 15% moisture, but neglected to fill the stovebox, I'd be getting the same results of what I've been experiencing for weeks?!! Don't know why I've been so lame and slow, but, I am finally getting it now. TU.

 

[A M]

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/how-do-you-use-your-envi-blocks.139945/

Look at this thread recently on the Hearth

Read it. Got it. TU, BU!.

 

[A M]

A M do as everyone is saying, fill the box! Get flames going good right at the top of the box. Don't be afraid to get the stove top temp up to 600f. I just loaded mine up and now that's the temp it' cruising at. Its going to stay above 500f for hours.
Regarding your earlier reply to my post - coal sizes - depends on how much I fill the box, if I pack it full I'll still have large coals 14,16,18hrs+ later! In fact I've been gone from the house for 48hrs on occasion and still found enough small coals to relight the fire. (then it becomes a game to see if you can get the stove going with minimal coals.) But my regular schedule which means at most I'm away for 16hrs I'll have enough coals big coals that I can fire the stove back up without bothering to get kindling. It all comes down to one thing - loading that box up.

If you're worried that the fire will get out of control with the box full - well don't be, you're totally in control of it, just close off the air supply and the fire will die down. But first get it up to 600f!
Follow the instructions some one posted after my last post on getting the box up to temp, that was nicely done.
The wood you are burning isn't the issue it all, it comes down to you not filling that box. It's massive, you need to get wood in there to get it hot! Also if you're cleaning it right out after every burn then stop doing that. A bed of coals is a good thing.
As mentioned before load it N/S. You can load either direction but that is the safest as the wood won't roll back onto the door.
You said you're cleaning the door each time - that definitely means you're not burning the fire hot enough, I haven't cleaned my door in a month because it is clean still!

Last thought - get a good book, along with a nice drink, load that stove up full, get it roaring, follow everyone's instructions here, and then plant yourself by the stove and enjoy that book and drink. Then you're right by the stove so you can keep an eye on it. Once you see that nothing bad will happen you'll start to develop more comfort with it. From what I've read it sounds like this is your biggest challenge. Get comfortable with how that stove will run at a proper temp.

Enjoy!

E.

E., I'm not cleaning out the box floor every time I re-load. However, when there is about three inches of coals, I've got to clean it out! I bet with too much ash in a firebox that it would inhibit the wood from actually burning, wouldn't it? Sidenote, I don't even use the ash pan. I try and save any good red coals, toss them toward the back (after raking the ash from the back to the front), and then carefully put the excess ash build-up into a metal can.

I agree. I think the N/S load position IS the safest. With this stove I can put up to a 20-inch log. Oh, yes. I am cleaning the door nearly every single morning. How lucky you are that you haven't had to clean yours for a month. Note that yesterday when I did get the stove up to 500, however, it did not magically clean the glass. It seems to slowly remove the darkened cloud part, but, certainly not entirely. Maybe THAT only happens if I can get the stove up to 600?!

 

[Grisu]

You are getting there. Just a few more tips:

When cleaning the stove leave about 1/2 inch of ashes in there. That will insulate the bottom and make for a hotter firebox.

When starting from a cold stove I actually do it similar to what you described earlier. 2 medium splits, some kindling, and then burn a small hot fire. Once that dies down I rake the still hot coals forward and only then I fill up the firebox as I posted above. When you have partially wet wood I certainly recommend that for two reasons: A warm flue is less likely to have water condensation on the walls and a warm stove will more quickly get a secondary burn which will consume the smoke particles from the wood. Both will mean less creosote in your chimney.

Rake the coals forward every time you do a reload and you will rarely if ever have to shovel them out again. The air from the airwash will burn them down rather quickly.

Don't worry, you will get to the point where you load the stove, adjust the air for maybe the next 20 minutes and then you won't touch it for at least 6 hours. Maybe this winter, maybe the next when your wood is better, but I am sure it will happen.

 

[BobUrban]

Sounds like progress!!

Go back and look at your post #57 - Soon enough you will be amazed at what your stove can do. You will then, eventually, become rather comfortable with what it can do. Once this is achieved you will know the quirks and tweaks of your setup and will be in the 450-650 range more than below for hours at a time.

Then you will be able to encourage by example!! Invite your "ole" friend over while the stove is cruising along at 600 with crystal clear glass and the house is toasty warm and LET him ask how this is happening. Key is to be patient - this is another one where repeated viewings with you not saying a word about the stove will have a more lasting effect than blabbing about how great your technique is.

Although it wouldn't hurt to point out rather nonchalantly how there is no smoke at all from your chimney with a 600 degree fire raging inside.

To go back to the auto analogy - you have a well tuned sports car in the garage and currently you are pushing it out into the driveway now and then to wash it - then pushing it back in. Turn on the engine and take that thing for a drive. It was designed to be driven.

Good advice on leaving some ash in the stove as well. Ash insulates, most manufacturers recommend this, and it will burn BETTER with ash in there.

 

[Everhard]

Well for a normally wordy guy (my apologies everyone...) I'll keep this one short! You've got all the info you need at this point to make it work.

Amen! You're going down the right road now. Keep pushing your comfort envelope and get that stove hotter. Yes, that's what keeps the door clean - case in point, I came back in this morning, it's been 18 hours since I last loaded the stove, and yes the door got a little dirty - it's browned over in one area in particular but after I get a good hot fire in there that will get cleaned right off.

Happy burning, as posted above, take that stove for a good long spin!

E.

P.S. - half hour from when I reloaded my stove and the stove top temp is passing 600f and climbing quickly. I'm now shutting to down to "cruising" mode. Then I'll head out the door for a half hour run comfortable with the knowledge the stove is running well and safely. Point is keep at it and you will develop the same comfort level.

 

[FionaD]

Looks like you're getting more confident A.M ! I love the way everyone here is right there with you cheering you on

When I was brand new to the wonderful world of stoves just over a year ago, I found these two videos very helpful because, like you, I had no idea previously that stoves could be so fully loaded. I've uploaded both videos here, just incase actually getting a visual of what everyone's been saying here helps you along even more.

Have a wee look at them.. The first one is about lighting a stove -

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...and this next one is how to reload for a good long burn -

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Hope you enjoy them.

OH.. And don't forget you still need to get that flue swept!

I also hope you and everyone else in your part of the U.S. are doing ok in that snow storm. Keep safe and warm everyone...

 

[A M]

OK, I am a bit shocked since talking to you last (Grisu, E. Fiona and BU) ... here's what's just occurred since 3:35PM (CST):

I packed the stove (not past the height of the brick linings. I used one match. I used two firestarter squares, placed on the front left and right sides, under small pieces of wood. I opened the bypass damper and also opened the air, all the way out. I left the door hinge on the latch but did not close it firmly, for the extra little air.

After .15 minutes, I closed the bypass damper. I left the main air open, as well as the front door slightly ajar, as above.

After .25 minutes, I start to slowly close the main air and close the front door.

I then look at the thermometer for the first time since starting the fire. It is only at 300 and I am disappointed and surprised. I BREAK THE RULES, knowing that you all will not lecture me (like now), when I tell you the truth of exactly how it turned out for me today. I placed one more 2 inch piece of long wood on top of all the other wood, and close the front door. Nothing much seems to be happening. I am disappointed but do not give up. I then open the air all the way again. I do NOT open the bypass again. And, I open the front door again, touching the top of the latch.

The contents of the firebox come to life again. I am feeling hopeful again and it is a good feeling.

Would you like to know what the thermometer read when I looked at it for the 3rd time total? It read "600" and my audible words to myself were "Holy Cow!" I could almost not believe what I was seeing. I decided not to close the main air all the way and it is presently open about one quarter of an inch. Of course, I closed the front door completely. I was stunned. This stove has only ONCE since owning it showed that high of a degree. I went outside to see the chimney cap. There was ZERO white smoke, only the heat of the gases from the burning.

NOW, it is 4:50PM and the thermometer reads "550." Still, I'll take it. I don't wish to make any errands at this time, though, because I want to make sure everything is OK. The water in the lattice water pot on the stove is sizzling and has been for about .15 minutes. I don't know how long this temp will hold, but, I have to say. It is kind of exciting. For weeks, I thought I was doing well when it radiated between 300 and 400 degrees. I truly thought this was how it should be and others who I read about citing these very, very high temps just had a better stove and more expensive, no doubt. I truly thought that it just couldn't happen to me and primarily because of the trouble I've had with my wood adventures.

Anyway, I just wanted to let you all know what the latest is. There are some secondaries in there I can see. It is starting to settle down as far as seeing the whole box "red." I will see how much and for how long it will radiate the heat. If it keeps dropping down to say, 350 in a hour or two, I will be greatly disappointed and will assume it is the wood? But, for now, I won't second guess this fire. I won't open the door again and will allow it to run its true fire "cycle."

The weather temps here are expected to go to 15 over the weekend during the nights and some snow, so, I want to be prepared. I've been bringing more wood inside and I am going to pick up the final batch of that cheap wood seller in the other town tomorrow.

BTW, I've been sprinkling a little bit of the "Creosote Destroyer" for the past three days. The ash that was in the box this morning was about an inch and a half deep, so I left it in there, for its insulation value.

Fiona, I have not watched the videos you so kindly uploaded for me, but I surely will. Also about the flue cleaning reminder. I am just so grateful to all four of you for the major positive contributions you've shared with me these past few days. It truly means a lot that you all took the time to explain what you did for me

 

[A M]

UPDATE: It is 5:30PM, but the stove temp has now gone to "360." I don't understand this. I have not opened the door. I did put the air out a tiny bit more, but that's it.

Can someone explain why it has dropped from the 600 (it actually went to 625 at its peak of heat on the thermometer), to this lowered temp in such a short time? Is it the wood, primarily?

I'm disappointed that the high temps do not stay for at least two hours. I'll wait to hear from my forum friends. I'll probably learn something else new regarding this!

 

[begreen]

We need to see how much wood is being loaded into the stove.

 

[A M]

We need to see how much wood is being loaded into the stove.

The firebox was pretty full. 3 big splits and some smaller pieces of odd shaped wood. No, it was not over-filled, but, quite nearly full. That can't be the reason for the temps dropping so soon?

When it reached "325," I put in new wood and there were just a few pieces of more than half-burnt wood left. In the future, I'll try and take a photo of how much wood is going in. Thanks, begreen.

 

[BradleyW]

I think you are starving your fire of air. With wet wood you really need to walk a fine line between too open and too closed. My guess is that you need to adjust your air setting for a longer period of time. As the stove top temp begins to drop, open up the air more to keep the fire going. With wet wood your fire needs a little more attention for a longer amount of time. You should never have a few pieces of partially burnt wood--it should all be turning to coals.

 

[A M]

I think you are starving your fire of air. With wet wood you really need to walk a fine line between too open and too closed. My guess is that you need to adjust your air setting for a longer period of time. As the stove top temp begins to drop, open up the air more to keep the fire going. With wet wood your fire needs a little more attention for a longer amount of time. You should never have a few pieces of partially burnt wood--it should all be turning to coals.

I think I said in the beginning of the post that I closed the bypass damper at .15 minutes and the primary air I began to turn it down a bit at about .20 minutes. Maybe it is as simple as that!? When there are tons of flames, as there was at the beginning, I didn't think the bypass needed to stay open for another .15 minutes, so I usually do not keep that one open for say, .30 minutes, as one wood burner said he did in another post.

Thanks for your guess/opinion, BradleyW. I'll see what others think of it, also, when they write in.

 

[BradleyW]

I think I said in the beginning of the post that I closed the bypass damper at .15 minutes and the primary air I began to turn it down a bit at about .20 minutes. Maybe it is as simple as that!? When there are tons of flames, as there was at the beginning, I didn't think the bypass needed to stay open for another .15 minutes, so I usually do not keep that one open for say, .30 minutes, as one wood burner said he did in another post.

Thanks for your guess/opinion, BradleyW. I'll see what others think of it, also, when they write in.

My opinion may not be the majority. Usually people will say that once they shut the air down, they don't need to mess with it again until reloading. My experience (with subpar wood) has been a little different.

 

[begreen]

The firebox was pretty full. 3 big splits and some smaller pieces of odd shaped wood. No, it was not over-filled, but, quite nearly full. That can't be the reason for the temps dropping so soon?

When it reached "325," I put in new wood and there were just a few pieces of more than half-burnt wood left. In the future, I'll try and take a photo of how much wood is going in. Thanks, begreen.

Pictures help a lot. We need to see what you are seeing.

 

[FionaD]

Hi A.M

Glad you survived the snow storm...

As BeGreen says, we really need pictures. For instance, when you say that you packed the stove and used two fire starter squares, we still don't know what size of splits you packed the stove with... It could for instance mean that you were starting up a fire from cold by putting in thick splits and little to no kindling. We are all working a little in the dark here.

For sure, if your stove dropped to under 400 within an hour, I would have thought you are not giving it enough air. However, you mention using a bypass, which, as far as my limited understanding goes, means you are burning a catalytic stove. This is a kind of beast I know nothing about, so if that is what you have, I probably shouldn't say anything more incase I am wrong. This will probably also apply to the videos (of a non-cat stove) I loaded for you.

It may be the all the advice you have been given will need to be modified if you are buring a cat stove... Am I right guys? This leads me to also realise you have never actually told us what stove you have.. Might be good to know

All the best from snowy Scotland

 

[BobUrban]

OK - I will ask for photos and more info too Stove ID is needed and if in fact you are burning a CAT stove then there are other tricks that I don't have any first hand knowledge on. Not that CAT is a bad thing - just different than a tube stove like I have.

BUT... you did get it going with the less than primo wood per the directions above and as was mentioned it may take some babysitting to keep temp up even after you get it going. After you have achieved the initial inferno and 600 play with the PRIMARY air only to adjust for more or less heat. Obviously close it down to whatever point it allows the stove to go into cruise control where it stays hot but does not keep climbing. An hour or so later(this is determined by temp and activity in the stove and is not an exact timeline - even from load to load) you can begin to give it more air in increments.

**No matter what type of stove you have be it CAT, TUBE or Old School Dragon you need to get past the point of needing the bypass open to ever achieve the heat in your house the stove was designed to produce. The bypass is just that: it lets most of the heat BYPASS the stove and go out the chimney like an open fore place.

This will/would not be the case with primo dry nearly as much as with wet wood. Unfortunately you end up using a lot of the stored energy in the process of getting it going(boiling off water) and this is energy that will no longer be available to produce sustained heat.

For the record I am not burning in what would be considered a HIGH END stove from a price stand point but it most likely is a bit bigger than your stove so back to the auto analogy: My gas tank is bigger so I can take longer drives before refueling but your car is equally as fast and efficient for a greater distance than you have achieved: with higher octane fuel.

So I will go back to the BIO bricks(only 1 or two) mixed in and in a configuration I laid out in a previous post. Retrace the process you used to get to 600 and have time to be there and monitor the activity. This addition of some prime fuel will heat quicker, displace moisture quicker and subsequently should sustain longer due to the above scenario. BIO bricks are rocket fuel for stoves so best not to over do it until you know how the stove reacts to dry wood. try two max - at first. Then play around from there.

You are getting there!! As was said in the movie: "Outlaw Josey Wales" you must endeavor to persevere!

Or just keep playing around with mentioned techniques until you get it all dialed in.

By the way, How did the glass look when you were running it hot and clean?

 

[A M]

OK - I will ask for photos and more info too Stove ID is needed and if in fact you are burning a CAT stove then there are other tricks that I don't have any first hand knowledge on. Not that CAT is a bad thing - just different than a tube stove like I have.

BUT... you did get it going with the less than primo wood per the directions above and as was mentioned it may take some babysitting to keep temp up even after you get it going. After you have achieved the initial inferno and 600 play with the PRIMARY air only to adjust for more or less heat. Obviously close it down to whatever point it allows the stove to go into cruise control where it stays hot but does not keep climbing. An hour or so later(this is determined by temp and activity in the stove and is not an exact timeline - even from load to load) you can begin to give it more air in increments.

**No matter what type of stove you have be it CAT, TUBE or Old School Dragon you need to get past the point of needing the bypass open to ever achieve the heat in your house the stove was designed to produce. The bypass is just that: it lets most of the heat BYPASS the stove and go out the chimney like an open fore place.

This will/would not be the case with primo dry nearly as much as with wet wood. Unfortunately you end up using a lot of the stored energy in the process of getting it going(boiling off water) and this is energy that will no longer be available to produce sustained heat.

For the record I am not burning in what would be considered a HIGH END stove from a price stand point but it most likely is a bit bigger than your stove so back to the auto analogy: My gas tank is bigger so I can take longer drives before refueling but your car is equally as fast and efficient for a greater distance than you have achieved: with higher octane fuel.

So I will go back to the BIO bricks(only 1 or two) mixed in and in a configuration I laid out in a previous post. Retrace the process you used to get to 600 and have time to be there and monitor the activity. This addition of some prime fuel will heat quicker, displace moisture quicker and subsequently should sustain longer due to the above scenario. BIO bricks are rocket fuel for stoves so best not to over do it until you know how the stove reacts to dry wood. try two max - at first. Then play around from there.

You are getting there!! As was said in the movie: "Outlaw Josey Wales" you must endeavor to persevere!

Or just keep playing around with mentioned techniques until you get it all dialed in.

By the way, How did the glass look when you were running it hot and clean?

Thanks, begreen, Fiona and BU:

I can not duplicate what I've already described through photos because that was yesterday and today has arrived. IF the reason this happened and

 

[A M]

Thanks, begreen, Fiona and BU:

This stove is a Drolet Myraid. It is about 2 months (new), and it is not a Cat wood stove. I can not duplicate what I've already described through photos because that was yesterday and today has arrived. IF the reason this happened and

oopppps, I hit the wrong key .... it did occur again this morning, however, I only used three large pieces of wood. The flames were fantastic and the temps made it up to "550." Again, within an hour or so, it started going down and eventually got to "325." I thought, correct technique aside, I am putting in a large flat piece of wood. It burned beautifully; flames were high; I opened up air some more. Going well (box is not full at this point, FYI). That was at 7AM.

It is 9:30AM and temps are now "475." Not bad. Not bad. I'll take it and see how long it holds. My real concern was from yesterday, as that firebox was very nearly full. Not completely packed up, but quite nearly full. It went down far too quickly, IMO.

I do have a concern I have not mentioned before and it may be absolutely nothing, but, it's been on my mind and so I took a photo this a.m.

I take it this happened when the two local people who moved in and set the stove up?? There is a slight crack, a bit bigger than a "hairline" crack on the upper left-hand side, above the stove door. Could it be cosmetic? Sure. Could it be a manufacturer's flaw? Sure. Could it be the movers fault? Sure.

But, bottom line is: could this affect the box to maintain high temps, once they have been reached?

That question is too early to assess, as this could SIMPLY be a matter of the firebox NOT being full of enough wood; thus, it can't hold its gained heat long??

Anyway, if the little crack does not affect - with any possibility - the heating retention, then, more wood is required.

The next time I will try and document everything so you can see how full the box gets. I would not expect the box to maintain heat for hours if the box is not full, so just want to make that clear. Here are two pics from this morning.

 

[begreen]

Hmm, that crack is not good, especially not on a new stove. Has it been reported to the dealer?

The picture helps, but next time please post one of the stove right after its been loaded, but before the wood is flaming so that we can see how you are loading the stove. It's hard to tell when the flames obscure the wood.