OMG. New Chain.

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hmmm, guess i'll give it a shot. The Oregon site is pretty good for sharpening tips, especially the part where it says: "Note: Do not attempt to file or alter tops of kickback-reducing bumper tie straps or bumper drive links..." ;)
 
Except for a couple different models of chain...one of those bieng the 33 series that you have.;)
Safety chain is a PITA.

Good luck.
 
Mike,

Just to make a suggestion.
Dump that goofy bastard chain in the trash before ya go nuts fighting it.

Simply pick up a loop or two of Oregon LGX or Stihl RSC from the local shop...and pay attention to what you are doing with the saw.

"Eschew"?
Gezundheight!!!! LOL!!
 
nola mike said:
savageactor7 said:
Always felt like the problem was the chain not biting,

Could have been the rakers, there's a right way to take them down... look it up. I lock my 20"bar in a vice and take an angle grinder to 'em to knock a couple thousands off, DONE!

Oh yeah, I agree, it's sweet breaking in a new chain...lets hope ya didn't jinx yourself.

well, at least i know that the saw's ok. and yes, i took the rakers down. don't know if i did it the "right way" or not though--seemed simple enough...is there a wrong way?
Use a raker gauge , it sits on top of the chain, what ever sticks thru the gauge gets filed off. Then when the raker is flat with the gauge, round off the top leading edge (front) of the raker. You don't want a point left on the front. You want it rounded. Gives you a smoother running chain. About 2 strokes usually does it. Also with the raker file, file both sides of your bar , a raised edge sticking out off the side will keep the chain from cutting too. This area is right off the groove to the outside of the bar, where I'm talking about. You should be able to feel it with your finger nail. Run the file flat to the side of the bar. Hope this helps.
 
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