OMG. New Chain.

[nola mike]

So I bought my Poulan 295 off CL 3 years ago, just to have a chainsaw--no thoughts about heavy use, wasn't burning/cutting wood at that point. It came with 3 chains. None of them worked quite right. Since I've been using it a lot this season, the saw's deficiencies have become noticeable. Tried sharpening them a bunch, by hand and using a dremel, which helped some, but not a ton. Always felt like the problem was the chain not biting, not that the saw was underpowered for what I was doing. Was about to upgrade the saw (had been looking for an excuse anyways...), but decided to try a new chain. It's night and day. This thing cuts really well now, and uses MUCH less gas (well, it takes much less time to make a cut now). The chain appears different, looks like it has fewer cutters than the other ones. I'm going to do a closer inspection and see if I can find some marks on the old chains indicating their specs. Bottom line is now I'm not sure if I've been using the wrong chains for 3 years or if I just can't sharpen a chain worth a damn.

 

[bogydave]

try this site
May help

(broken link removed)

If it don't link right, go here & fill in the name, modl,bar length
Will give you the Oregon PN# & some spec for your saw chain & other parts

 

[nola mike]

try this site
May help

(broken link removed)

If it don't link right, go here & fill in the name, modl,bar length
Will give you the Oregon PN# & some spec for your saw chain & other parts

yeah, that's what I used to get the new chain. I'm wondering if my old chains were wrong though. Maybe I'll take some pics tomorrow.

 

[savageactor7]

Always felt like the problem was the chain not biting,

Could have been the rakers, there's a right way to take them down... look it up. I lock my 20"bar in a vice and take an angle grinder to 'em to knock a couple thousands off, DONE!

Oh yeah, I agree, it's sweet breaking in a new chain...lets hope ya didn't jinx yourself.

 

[nola mike]

Always felt like the problem was the chain not biting,

Could have been the rakers, there's a right way to take them down... look it up. I lock my 20"bar in a vice and take an angle grinder to 'em to knock a couple thousands off, DONE!

Oh yeah, I agree, it's sweet breaking in a new chain...lets hope ya didn't jinx yourself.

well, at least i know that the saw's ok. and yes, i took the rakers down. don't know if i did it the "right way" or not though--seemed simple enough...is there a wrong way?

 

[Dingeryote]

If the chain isn't biting, either the Rakers are too high or the file was too high and ya don't have enough hook.

Unless it was a safety chain with the goofy bumpers, or folded over rakers like on the Oregon Vanguard junk chains.

Can ya post a pic of the chain?

 

[smokinj]

just can't sharpen a chain worth a damn.

 

[TMonter]

just can't sharpen a chain worth a damn.

That's what an Oregon filing guide is for until you learn to do it by eye and hand.

 

[smokinj]

just can't sharpen a chain worth a damn.

That's what an Oregon filing guide is for until you learn to do it by eye and hand.

+100 Got to craw before you walk.....

 

[Thistle]

If the chain isn't biting, either the Rakers are too high or the file was too high and ya don't have enough hook.

Unless it was a safety chain with the goofy bumpers, or folded over rakers like on the Oregon Vanguard junk chains.

I had a couple of those,did a wee bit of modification with the mini grinder.Got me by until the full chisel chains I ordered arrived at the shop.

 

[Joe in MI]

I have the same saw, and I bought an Oregon chisel chain for it to replace the two safety chains I had before. I had the same experience - it cuts like a different saw.

I also bought mine for the same reasons - at the time I wasn't burning wood, and just needed something for basic occasional maintenance around our 20 acres. Some day I'll grow up and have a big boy saw, but until it dies I'll stick with my trusty 295 - starts right away every time, even after sitting for months.

 

[Kenster]

Does a chisel chain require a different set of sharpening tools?

 

[Thistle]

Does a chisel chain require a different set of sharpening tools?

Nope. I use standard 7/32" round file on them.The shape of the gullets is the same no matter its a full chisel,semi-chisel or one of those POS 'safety chains' with the folded rakers.

 

[TreePointer]

Does a chisel chain require a different set of sharpening tools?

If you are referring to round chisel vs. round semi-chisel, then USUALLY the answer is "no." If they are the same pitch, then the same size round file will be used. The regular Stihl or Husqvarna file guide will work on either shape of cutter, but a some file guides (like the File-O-Plate) are made specifically for the type of cutter.

As a general rule, it's best to use the guide made/recommended by the chain maker. You avoid some incompatibility problems if you do.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Bottom line is now I'm not sure if I've been using the wrong chains for 3 years or if I just can't sharpen a chain worth a damn.

Both :coolsmirk:

Chain grinder fixed my pizz-poor sharpening skills/lack of patience.

 

[fortydegnorth]

I went the grinder route also. I bought a Maxx a few years back and it's so easy to get a sharp chain and to hand grind the rakers. Self clamping makes it fast too. Very easy to swap directions and comes with three different stones.

 

[JeffT]

Does a chisel chain require a different set of sharpening tools?

Nope. I use standard 7/32" round file on them.The shape of the gullets is the same no matter its a full chisel,semi-chisel or one of those POS 'safety chains' with the folded rakers.

7/32'' for 3/8'',3/16'' for .325

 

[TreePointer]

13/64" files are also okay for 3/8 pitch chain. In fact, it's what Stihl recommends for its 3/8 pitch chain. I've used both files on 3/8 pitch chain with good results.

 

[JeffT]

13/64" files are also okay for 3/8 pitch chain. In fact, it's what Stihl recommends for its 3/8 pitch chain. I've used both files on 3/8 pitch chain with good results.

Agreed,thats what I use but both are acceptable.Some recommend starting a new chain with 13/64'' then moving to 7/32 as the chain wares.

 

[nola mike]

ok, an update. i posted some pics of the old and new chains, don't know if it's useful or not. however, i did figure out why the old chain wasn't cutting. the raker comes out to the side of the chain, effectively blocking the cutter. on the last pic, you can see that the cutter doesn't extend to the left past the raker at all. not sure if the rakers are bent sideways (looks maybe a bit more than the new chain), or if the cutters are just worn down too much to be sharpened. and the chain is just junk. is that the case, or is this damage/salvageable?

 

[Dingeryote]

Mike,

That middle chain marked 33 is a safety chain. If you're gonna keep running it, grind the bumpers down a bit when you file the rakers. The stupid things work OK untill you get to a certain point of cutter length, and then they throw the angles all to crap and wont let the cutter tilt and get a bite behind it. Looking at the pic in the middle, it looks like the rakers have never been filed, one raker is busted, and the drive links are starting to get peened a bit.

The chain with the 72 stamps on the drive links, is the dreaded "Vanguard" with the folded over rakers. They are a PITA to deal with when setting raker height, as ya can't get any gauge on them, and they don't file for crap. Have the shop grind them for you or join hair club for men...cuz you're gonna pull yours out dealing with the things.

Honestly, I'd pitch both, or grind them and keep them for one last use on some nasty filthy stump, then pitch 'em.

Looks like you have Oregon LP/LPX on the bar, it's decent stuff, even with the bumper links, and should be a LOT easier to maintain with a simple file and gauge.
Just be mindfull of keeping good habits concerning kickback.

While you're tinkering, put an eyeball on the rim sprocket. Both of those safety chains have drive links showing some peening. Either they were run loose or you might have a worn sprocket.

 

[nola mike]

thanks for the insight. chain #2 (the pic with the solo chain) has had the rakers filed. all 3 chains came with the saw, so I don't know what kind of use they got. as far as the "bumpers", what exactly are they? is that just the protruding part of the raker? i'm going to get rid of the vanguard chain regardless--doesn't seem to fit correctly. weird that none of the sharpening guides that I've found mention this type of wear, and that it's something to check.

 

[Dingeryote]

Mike,

The "guard' links on the s series chain in the middle pic. They keep the cutters from digging in enough to cause a kickback.
Somebody lowered the raker to be correct for the angle on the short cutter, but left the rest of the cutters and rakers the same length.

Sorry about the cornfusion. The Chain on the bar has the "Bumper link". It's a drive link with the little gizzie that rotates forward on the bar nose radius, reducing the bite of the cutters as they pass over the KB zone of the bar nose and making them a safety chain that is still tolerable.

Heres a link to some good info that might help ya.
(broken link removed to http://www.madsens1.com/MNUbarchain.htm)

 

[nola mike]

Couldn't find info specific to my problem, though other helpful info there. So the guard links/bumpers are on the links between the cutters? Filing these would increase the bite that the top of the cutter takes, similar to the top of the raker. I guess I'd also have to file the side of the raker to allow the side of the cutter to take a bite. Just trying to get some knowledge for the future--looks like this chain is more trouble than it's worth at this point.

 

[Dingeryote]

Don't worry about the sides of the rakers, just dress them to retain the original shape after lowering them to avoid chatter. Use a good filing guide so you don't go too deep.

The guard links taken down a little seems to help once you file the cutters back past about half. Oregon and Stihl both have good info on filing chain on thier web sites.