The family/living room has a sloped ceiling I’m not sure where we could put a new one, I do not imagine there is much of a gap between the ceiling and roof.
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Old house new fire advice
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Then it may need to come down. But you don't do that simply by pulling it down. You disassemble it from the top down
Thank you, Yeah i figured as much. i did install a wood burning stove in our last home, but i had a attic to transfer from double wall to triple with the register box . not sure how i go about it with a ceiling that the roof is literally right above. The corner of the room would be ideal but the pitch of the roof maybe too much, it is approx 6ft pitch and i believe i have to go several feet above the ridge line. :/
It isn't hard to do with a cathedral ceiling at all. Just use a cathedral ceiling support box. And the chimney needs to be 2 feet higher than anything within 10 feet
Even with that language, if they missed something that most home inspectors would have discovered, it could rise to the level of Professional Malpractice. You based your purchase of this house on their report, if they missed stuff that they should not have you might have a case.
The home inspectors absolutely cannot be help liable. All of their contracts cover themselves many times over. And there have been many court cases supporting that
Thank you again, am i right in thinking it has to be above the ridge by a certain height also?
It has to be 2' above anything within 10'. If the ridge is further than 10' no
Thank you, i guess a solid plan for now is make the outside of the chimney in those areas as water tight as possible, repair the damage then take down the chimney in the summer, then install a new one where we want come the fall.
I want to say i had 6 ft of triple wall chromed chimney above the roof in our last place, ( although we are in Alabama we like a fire on a cold day. ) and we never had any draw issues that i am aware of.
Don't wait until fall. Stoves and materials can become very hard to get a hold of in the fall. And you should have wood cut split and covered already
Ok first off don't get triple wall. It is a far inferior product to insulated double wall chimney. And 6' above the roof may very well have been 12' overall above the stove.
Sorry i meant when it went into the attic i had triple wall, then outside again triple wall. i do not recall the reason i was advised that though. positive it was this (broken link removed)
the length of the chimney would be around 14-16 ft id imagine if we put it where wed like.
sadly due to the ongoing other issues our money is draining quickly, i am pretty sure we can not afford to do this completely new for a few months at least.
Yes don't get that. Spend a little more and get the better double wall chimney pipe
Sorry if i am being annoying, ( im mentally fried is my excuse ) you mean like this? and it is sufficient even outside the home?
6" DVL 40" - 68" Double-Wall Telescoping Black Stove Pipe - 6DVL-68TA
6" DVL 40" - 68" Telescoping Pipe - Find 6 inch DVL black double wall stove pipe lengths here along with expert advice and installation information - NorthlineExpress.com
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No that is connector pipe and can't pass through ceilings or walls.Sorry if i am being annoying, ( im mentally fried is my excuse ) you mean like this? and it is sufficient even outside the home?
6" DVL 40" - 68" Double-Wall Telescoping Black Stove Pipe - 6DVL-68TA
6" DVL 40" - 68" Telescoping Pipe - Find 6 inch DVL black double wall stove pipe lengths here along with expert advice and installation information - NorthlineExpress.com
clearly im being dense, i thought that is what that was, or this
6" x 48" DuraTech Stainless Steel Chimney Pipe - 6DT-48SS
6" x 48" DuraTech SS Pipe- Best selection of 6 inch Duravent double wall chimney pipe lengths.Expert chimney pipe installation tips. - NorthlineExpress.com
www.northlineexpress.com
i will do some forum searching so i do not annoy you, thank you again
That is double wall insulated chimneyclearly im being dense, i thought that is what that was, or this
16" x 48" DuraTech Stainless Steel Chimney Pipe - 6DT-48SS
6" x 48" DuraTech SS Pipe- Best selection of 6 inch Duravent double wall chimney pipe lengths.Expert chimney pipe installation tips. - NorthlineExpress.com
i will do some forum searching so i do not annoy you, thank you again
great , i got there finally, i will be back to bug you when it comes time to build
thank you again.
At this point i think you're at tear it out and replace. I understand you dont have the funds to do this now but start planning for it over the summer and have a good game plan, and possibly materials, all lined up for the fall. It'll take a little bit of hard work to take that existing chimney down to the ground. Then you can repair the structure based on what you've found so far, and what you will find once it's outta there, and you will find more surprises. If you're really on a tight budget and want a wood stove in that room you can just reframe the structure once that brick chimney is out of there then install a Class A chimney system(i like Selkirk), you can install it without a chase, for $1500-2000. Learn the local codes for flues and follow them. Welcome to the joys of homeownership. I think most home inspections arent worth the paper they're written on but if you dont know houses and systems, what else can you do i guess. Even the best inspectors arent, cant disassemble a house just to make sure everything's perfect. Every house has issues, even brand new ones. I've seen 10 year old houses having the entire front of the house re-sheathed due to poor flashing around windows/doors so it does happen.
It makes sense as much as i dont want or need the extra work. i am about to head out to get some adhesive flashing to try stop the water ingress for now while i take up the floor and see what beams need replacing. i have to go back to digging a new water main next week so this will have to wait until nearer the summer for the tear down. thankfully there appear to be 4 lengths of wood siding in the barn, so thats one less expense.
Thank you for the replies, i will get some reading done on local codes in the mean time, as i feel it is going to be a new stove in the corner of the room. ( which makes sense anyway to be honest )
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Inspectors are not permitted nor expected to start ripping out sheetrock, cement/brick etc to determine the construction of something. If they missed rotted subfloor that was visible under, or joists/beams - then yes you could chase after them but ultimately what you might get back is an insurance adjustment to help fund the repairs, for that particular issue, and nothing else that might be hiden.
When I bought my cabin, I knew it had challenges but I didnt really know how bad. We saw water damage repairs and then after closing when I was replacing a frozen gray water pipe I noticed a cracked joist. I had a screw driver on me and I stuck it straight through that joist. And another...and another. Then I stuck it about 1/2 the way through the beam. I spent that summer / weekends replacing joist after putting up temp beams on each side, then cutting out the beam and replacing, as well as adding two more pier supports. WHY I didnt do this from above was because it was above the current 'kitchenette' and bathroom, and my family was up there with me while I was doing this. Plan is to rip up all the double plywood soon and replace that when I remodel the interior of that part of the cabin.
^ all of this would have been visible if the inspector crawled under the cabin into the crawlspace. I should have, but I trusted the guy. He found a spongy roof in an area, he found some rot where a rafter met up with the chimney in the attic from a leak that was patched, and he found cabinet doors that didnt close 100%, only about 99%.
Ive known home inspectors that will state people have an infestation because of a single carpenter ant in the area...while others will ignore a roof that is obviously sagging from the street view.
I learned that one must do their own due diligence...and never to rely on anyone..ever.
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